University  of  Calif  ornia  •  Berkeley 


VT.KLMO 
VMwMMAXnKm: 


TOUR  OF  T}iE 


FROM    THE    NUTMEG    STATE 
TO    THE    GOLDEN    GATE 


1883 


BY 
IE.     33. 

"HISTORIAN 


COPYRIGHTED 

BY   E.    B.    EVERITT 

1883 


PUBLISHED    BY  THE 
MERIDEN    BOOK-BINDERY. 


I   I  hi;/ 


Vf 


TO    THE 

SIR    KNIGHTS 

OF 

ST.  ELMO  COMMANDERY 

No.  9,   K.   T. 

AND    THEIR   LADIES 

THIS    LITTLE    RECORD    OF  A  TOUR 

From  the  Nutmeg  State 
To  the  Golden  Gate 

IS    RESPECTFULLY    DEDICATED 

BY 


CO  N.TE  N  TS. 


PAGE 

CHAPTER  I.  1 1 

CHAPTER  II.  22 

CHAPTER  III.  -  29 

CHAPTER  IV.  36 

CHAPTER  V.  -  -   43 

CHAPTER  VI.  50 

CHAPTER  VII.  -   61 

CHAPTER  VIII.  -  81 

CHAPTER  IX.  -  -  94 

CHAPTER  X.  104 

CHAPTER  XI.  -  -  115 


CONTENTS. 

CHAPTER  XII.  124 

CHAPTER  XIII.  .    \^ 

CHAPTER  XIV.  138 

CHAPTER  XV.  -     164 

CHAPTER  XVI.  170 

CHAPTER  XVII.  -                                    -    181 

CHAPTER  XVIII.  -         194 

CHAPTER  XIX.  -                          -             206 


INTRODUCTORY, 


THE  TOUR  OF  THE  ST,  ELMO  PARTY  THROUGH  THE 

NEW  ENGLAND  STATES,  BRITISH  PROVINCES, 

MICHIGAN,  INDIANA,  ILLINOIS,  MISSOURI, 

KANSAS,  COLORADO,  NEW  MEXICO, 

ARIZONA,  CALIFORNIA,  NEVADA, 

UTAH,  WYOMING,  NEBRASKA 

AND  IOWA, 
A  JOURNEY  OF  NEARLY  TEN  THOUSAND  MILES  AND 

EVERY  MILE  A  PLEASURE. 


TOUR  OF  THE  ST.  ELMO'S, 


CHAPTER  I. 

On  the  morning  of  July  23,  1883,  the  palace 
excursion  cars,  "  CITY  OF  WORCESTER"  and 
"  CHARLES  B.  PRATT,"  were  stationed  at  the 
railroad  depot,  Meriden,  Conn.,  where  they 
were  visited  and  admired  during  the  day  by 
great  numbers. 

These  models  of  convenience  and  comfort 
were  built  by  the  Worcester  Excursion  Car 
Co. ;  are  sumptuously  furnished,  and  roll  along 
with  the  least  possible  jolting.  The  large 
windows  are  double  and  supplied  with  screens 
of  very  fine  wire.  The  weight  of  the  two  is 
equal  to  that  of  three  Pullmans.  Both  are 
twelve-wheel  coaches  and  considered  either  as 
sleeping  or  dining  cars  are  unexcelled.  They 
are  convertible  in  a  twinkling  into  the  easiest, 


TOUR  OF  THE  ST.  ELMO'S. 

cosiest  drawing-rooms  imaginable.  Each  has 
a  kitchen  with  excellent  range,  and  convenient 
pantry,  while  underneath  are  lockers  and  refrig- 
erators. The  smoking  rooms,  baggage  rooms, 
wash  rooms  and  state  rooms  are  in  keeping 
with  the  other  elegant  appointments.  Each 
coach  is  accompanied  by  a  capable  cook,  a 
porter  and  a  waiter.  In  these  two  elegant 
palace  cars  the  traveling  party  are  certain  of 
restful  comfort  while  en  route. 

Sir  Knight  S.  W.  Cummings,  general  pas- 
senger agent  of  the  Central  Vermont  railroad, 
located  at  St.  Albans,  Vt,  and  Mr.  S.  W. 
Manning,  New  England  agent  of  the  Atchi- 
son,  Topeka  and  Santa  Fe  railroad,  located  at 
Boston  ;  laboring  together  in  the  interest  of 
the  party,  procured  the  publication  of  a  thirty- 
two  page  itinerary  and  guide-book.  The  work 
was  admirably  done  by  the  American  Bank 
Note  Engraving  Co.  of  New  York,  under  the 
direction  and  supervision  of  these  capable  and 
accommodating  friends. 


PREPARA  TIONS. 

Here  is  given  exact  time  of  arrival  at  and 
departure  from  every  point  in  the  trip. 

The  chief  points  of  interest  and  the  various 
attractions  are  also  described,  the  whole  printed 
on  heavy  toned  paper,  each  page  emblazoned 
with  Knight  Templar  emblems  and  the  cov- 
ers illuminated  with  an  original  design  bearing 
the  name  of  the  commandery.  Every  mem- 
ber of  the  party  is  presented  with  a  sufficient 
number  for  distribution.  A  synopsis  of  this 
elegant  itinerary  is  also  published. 

The  grand  event  of  the  22d  TRIENNIAL 
CONCLAVE  of  the  Grand  Encampment  of  the 
U.  S.  of  1883,  at  SAN  FRANCISCO,  CAL.,  calls 
for  numbers  of  Knights  Templar  badges,  cards, 
emblems,  etc.  The  various  preparations  for 
this  grand  trip  have  been  going  on  for  three 
years. 

Sir  Knight  E.  C.  Birdsey,  Deputy  Grand 
Commander  of  Connecticut,  has  been  indefati- 
gable in  his  labors  during  that  time.  His  care- 
ful thought  and  earnest  work  have  shaped  the 


TOUR  OF  THE  ST.  ELMO'S. 

arrangements.  Sir  Knight  L.  E.  Coe,  past 
Eminent  Commander  of  St.  Elmo,  has  also 
labored  faithfully  to  make  the  occasion  a  suc- 
cess. Others  have  of  course  given  to  the 
enterprise  thought  and  labor.  The  prepara- 
tions are  absolutely  perfect.  The  eventful 
Monday,  July  23d,  sees  the  various  tourists 
busily  engaged  in  preliminaries.  For  half  an 
hour  before  the  arrival  of  the  3.57  train,  the 
excursionists  were  kept  busy  bidding  their 
scores  of  friends  good-bye.  All  was  bustle 
and  merriment  on  board  the  coaches  as  an 
extra  engine  drew  them  down  the  track  and 
they  were  attached.  The  train  slowly  moves 
away  amid  the  waving  of  hands,  hats  and 
handkerchiefs  from  the  coaches  and  from  the 
hundreds  on  the  platform,  then,  gradually 
increasing  its  speed,  curves  around  the  bend 
of  the  track  and  the  Knights  Templar  and 
their  ladies  bid  Meriden  adieu,  expecting  to 
return  when  the  leaves  begin  to  fall. 
The  synopsis  of  itinerary  is  as  follows  : 
14 


SYNOPSIS  OF  ITINERARY. 

PILGRIMAGE    FROM    MERIDEN,     CONNECTICUT,     TO 
SAN    FRANCISCO,    CALIFORNIA, 

TO    THE 

Twenty- Second  Triennial  Conclave  of  the  Grand  Encampment  of 

the   United  States,  August  2istt  1883, 
In  Excursion  Hotel  Cars  "  C.  B.  Pratt,"  and  "  City  of  Worcester.'' 

Monday,  July  23 — Leave  Meriden  via  Springfield,  for  Montreal, 
P.  Q.,  at  3.57  P.  M. 

Tuesday,   July   24 — Carriage    rides   in    Montreal   and   excursion 

through  Lachine  Rapids. 
Wednesday,  July  25 — In  Toronto,  Ont.,   11:30  A.M.  till  3:35  P.M. 

Niagara  Falls  at  6:40  p.  M. 

Thursday,  July  26— Niagara  Falls.     Leave  at  1:00  P.  M. 
Friday,  July  27 — Arrive  at  Chicago,  8:00  A.M.      Carriage  rides. 

Leave  at  12:35  P-  M- 

Saturday,  July  28 — Kansas  City  at  9:45  A.  M.,  and  leave  for  Den- 
ver, via  Pueblo. 

Sunday,  July  29 — Arrive  at  Denver  and  spend  the  day. 
Monday,  July  30 — Excursion  to  mines  of  Central  City  and  Black 

Hawk. 
Tuesday,  July  31 — In  Denver.     Leave  at  2:30  p.  M.  for  Colorado 

Springs.     Arrive  at  6:00  p.  M. 
Wednesday,   Aug.  i — Carriage  ride   to   Manitou,  Garden  of  the 

Gods,  etc.     Leave  at  6:00  p.  M. 
Thursday,  Aug.  2 — Excursion  from  Pueblo  through  Grand  Canon. 

Leave  Pueblo  at  8:40  p.  M. 

Friday,  Aug.  3 — Arrive  at  Las  Vegas  Hot  Springs,  N.  M.,  3:05  P.M. 
Saturday,  Aug.  4 — Leave  Las  Vegas   Hot  Springs  at  12:05  P.M. 

Arrive  at  Santa  Fe,  N.  M.,  at  6:50  P.  M. 
Sunday,  Aug.  5 — At  Santa  Fe. 


TOUR  OF  THE  ST.  ELMO'S. 

Monday  and   Tuesday,    Aug.  6   and  7 — En  route   through  New 

Mexico  and  Arizona,  arriving  at  Los  Angeles,  4:45  r.  M. 
Wednesday  and  Thursday,  Aug.   8  and  9 — Carriage  rides  from 

Los  Angeles  to  orange  groves  and  vineyards.     Leave  Aug.  9, 

at  5:15  P.  M. 
Friday,    Aug.    10 — Arrive   at   Madera   6:43   A.M.      Stage  for  the 

Yosemite.     Arrive  at  Clark's  7:00  p.  M. 

Saturday,  Aug.  n — Leave  Clark's  for  Yosemite,  arriving  at  noon. 
Sunday,  Aug.  12 — In  Yosemite. 
Monday,  Aug.  13 — Leave  Yosemite  for  Big  Trees,  and  spend  the 

night  at  Clark's. 
Tuesday,  Aug.  14 — Leave  Clark's  6:00  A.  M.,  and  arrive  at  Madera 

at  6:00  P.M. 
Wednesday,  Aug.  15 — Leave  Madera  6:43  A.M.,  and  arrive  at  San 

Francisco  at  2:40  p.  M. 
Thursday,  Aug.  16,  to   Friday,  Aug.  24 — In  San  Francisco  with 

headquarters  at  Baldwin  Hotel.     Excursions  at  the  pleasure 

of  the  party  to  Monterey,  Santa  Cruz,  the  Geysers,  Petrified 

Forest,  etc. 

Friday,  Aug.  24 — Leave  San  Francisco  via  Sacramento,  3:30  P.M. 
Saturday,  Aug.  25 — En  route  through  the  Sierras  and  Nevada. 
Sunday,  Aug.  26 — Spend  the  day  at  Salt  Lake  City. 
Monday,  Aug.  27 — En  route  through  Utah  and  Wyoming  Ter. 
Tuesday,  Aug.  28 — En  route  through  the  Rocky  Mountains. 
Wednesday,   Aug.  29 — En   route  through  Nebraska,  arriving  at 

Omaha  3:35  p.  M. 
Thursday,  Aug.  30 — En  route  through  Iowa  and  Illinois,  arriving 

at  Chicago,  2:15  p.  M. 

Friday,  Aug.  31 — En  route  through  Michigan  and  Ontario. 
Saturday,  Sept.  i — En  route  from  Montreal  to  Meriden,  arriving 

home  at  9:20  p.  M. 

16 


LIST  OF  THE  TOURISTS, 

OFFICIAL  LIST  OF  MEMBERS  OF  ST.  ELMO  TOURIST  PARTY. 

R.  £.  Sir  H.  WALES  LINES,  P.  G.  C.— Executive  Committee. 
V.  E.  Sir  ELI  C.  BIRDSEY,  D.G.  C.— Master  of  Transportation. 
E.  Sir  E.  B.  COWLES,  E.  C. — Chairman  Finance  Committee. 
E.  Sir  WM.  H.  MILLER.  P.  E.  C.—Menu  Committee. 
E.    Sir   E.   J.    DOOLITTLE,  P.    E.   C. — Chairman  Executive 

Committee. 

E.  Sir  LEVI  E.  COE,  P.  E.  C.— Treasurer. 
Sir  WILBUR  F.  DAVIS— Genera!  Secretary. 
Sir  CHARLES  S.  PERKINS,  Rec. — Finance  Committee. 
Sir  E.  B.  EVERITT,  J.  W. — Historian. 
Sir  JOHN  W.  COE — Commissary. 
Sir  REUBEN  T.  COOK — Commissary. 
Sir  N.  F.  GRISWOLD — Menu  Committee. 
Sir  W.  A.  KELSEY  —  Menu  Committee. 
Sir  A.  B.  MATHER — Amusement  Committee. 
Sir  J.  FRANK  PRATT  —  Quartermaster. 
Sir  H.  H.  STRONG — Commissary. 
Sir  F.  STEVENSON,  Jr.— Finance  Committee. 
Sir  GEO.  S.  TAYLOR — Time  Keeper. 

LADIES. 

Mrs.  ELI  C.  BIRDSEY,  Mrs.  JOHN  W.  COE, 

Mrs.  E.  B.  COWLES,  Mrs.  REUBEN  T.  COOK, 

Mrs.  E.  J.  DOOLITTLE,  Mrs.  N.  F.  GRISWOLD, 

Mrs.  LEVI  E.  COE,  Mrs.  W.  A.  KELSEY, 

Mrs.  WILBUR  F.  DAVIS,  Mrs.  H.  H.  STRONG, 

Mrs.  E.  B.  EVERITT,  Mrs.  F.  STEVENSON,  Jr. 
Mrs.  GEORGE  S.  TAYLOR. 


TOUR  OF  THE  ST.  ELMO'S. 

The  party  as  originally  made  up  were  all 
en  route  with  the  exception  of  Mr.  and  Mrs. 
Wilbur  F.  Davis,  the  sudden  illness  of  their 
only  child  having  detained  them.  The  follow- 
ing quotation  from  a  local  editorial  speaks  of 
an  elegant  reception  at  Springfield,  Mass.: 

"  Aside  from  the  disappointment  occasioned 
by  the  absence  of  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Davis,  a  feel- 
ing that  will  be  increased  to  grief  when  the 
sad  news  of  the  death  of  little  Stanley  reaches 
them,  the  St.  Elmo  tourists  had  an  exceedingly 
pleasant  beginning  to  their  journey.  A  party 
of  Meriden  friends  accompained  them  as  far 
as  Springfield,  where  they  were  met  by  the 
Springfield  Knights  Templar  who  had  tendered 
them  a  "  bon  voyage"  banquet.  About  sixty 
Springfield  people,  Sir  Knights  and  their 
wives,  had  gathered  at  the  Massasoit  house  and 
an  hour  or  so  was  delightfully  spent  in  a  social 
way  in  the  parlors  before  the  company  ad- 
journed to  the  dining  room.  The  Springfield 
Sir  Knights  treated  their  guests  right  royally. 

18 


"BON    VOYAGE"   BANQUET. 

The   banquet  was  a  very  elaborate  one,  and  a 
merrier  party  never  sat  down  to  a  feast. 

"  Following  is  a  list  of  the  Springfield  Sir 
Knights  and  their  ladies  : 

O.  K.  MERRILL,  E.  C. 
S.  B.  SPOONER,  P.  E.  C. 

E.  P.  CHAPIN,  G.  C.  G.,  of  Mass,  and  R.  I. 
A.  F.  BALL. 

C.  A.  CALL,  C.  G. 

A.  C.  HARVEY,  Warder,  and  lady. 

C.  J.  SANDERSON,  Rec.,  and  sister. 

J.  H.  ROGERS,  S.  W.  B.,  and  wife. 

G.  W.  BOWKER. 

H.  M.  PHILLIPS,  Mayor  of  Springfield. 

F.  E.  CARPFNTER. 

E.    P.    KENDRICK,  Pres't.  Common  Council  of  City. 

C.  C.  SPELLMAN,  P.  E.  C.,  and  wife. 

D.  E.  TAYLOR  and  wife. 
A.  B.  WEST. 

J.  E.  SHIPMAN,  Prelate,  and  sister. 

J.  C.  Ltnz  and  wife. 

GEO.  N.  PARSONS,  J.  W.,  and  wife. 

T.  T.  DAVEE,  Generalissimo,  and  wife. 

N.  W.  FISK  and  wife. 

H.  C.  LEE  and  wife. 

G.  F.  ADAMS. 
W.  H.  GILBERT. 

"  Sir  Knight  H.  Wales  Lines  returns  to 
Meriden,  being  detained  by  business  and  will 
overtake  the  party  at  Denver. 

'9 


TOUR  OF  THE  ST.  ELMO'S. 

"  The  tourists  left  Springfield  on  the  8.15 
train,  via  the  Connecticut  River  road,  for 
Montreal." 

A  series  of  letters  from  the  historian  of  the 
party  will  tell  the  story  of  the  journey.  Quota- 
tions from  the  itinerary  will  also  be  used. 

from  Itinerary. 

"Our  journey  during  the  night  (over  which 
we  shall  return  by  daylight)  will  be  as  follows  : 
through  the  beautiful  Connecticut  Valley  with 
its  charming  views  of  mountain  scenery,  and 
the  historic  points  of  interest  along  the  banks 
of  the  Connecticut  river ;  from  Windsor  over 
the  OLD  RELIABLE  CENTRAL  VERMONT  RAIL- 
ROAD, which  was  opened  to  Montpelier  in  1849, 
and  extended  to  St.  Johns  in  1862,  there  mak- 
ing connection  for  Montreal  with  the  Grand 
Trunk  Railway.  The  deep,  fertile  valleys, 
gently  sloping  uplands,  verdant  hillsides,  cloud- 
capped  summits  of  the  Green  Mountains,  com- 
bine to  furnish  scenery  unsurpassed  in  this 
country  in  peaceful  beauty  and  grandeur. 

20 


THE  CONNECTICUT  VALLEY. 

Fresh  surprises  greet  the  traveler  on  every 
hand,  until,  at  the  end  of  a  day's  journey,  one 
retraces  his  way  over  the  mountains,  through 
the  valleys,  over  the  rushing  torrents,  past  the 
peaceful,  prosperous  farms,  where  contentment 
reigns  supreme,  along  the  fertile  meadows, 
beside  the  loveliest  of  lakes,  through  pros- 
perous villages  and  rocky  gorges ;  and  the 
mind  is  lost  in  wonder  that  the  skill  of  man 
should  have  placed  it  in  one's  power  to  witness 
such  magnificent  panoramas  with  ease  and  com- 
fort." 


TOUR  OF  THE  ST.  ELMO'S. 


CHAPTER  IT. 

HOTEL  ON  WHEELS,  July  24. 
Our  first  evening  was  pleasantly  passed. 
With  the  generous  entertainment  of  the 
Springfield  Sir  Knights  as  the  natural  topic  of 
conversation,  together  with  a  discussion  of  the 
morrow's  program,  there  was  no  particular 
dearth  of  speech.  Everybody  was  merry  and 
hopeful.  Already  we  began  to  feel  at  home 
in  our  luxurious  coaches,  and  passed  from  one 
to  the  other  with  the  easy  freedom  and  air  of 
experienced  travelers.  Somebody  started 
mathematical  puzzles,  then  a  number  of  pre- 
posterous conundrums  were  given  out,  a  few 
had  confidence  enough  in  the  good  nature  of 
the  party  to  perpetrate  a  lot  of  bad  puns,  some 
displayed  genuine  wit  in  repartee,  one  or  two 
ventured  to  sing,  and  everybody  laughed  at  the 
slightest  provocation.  It  was  a  happy  party, 
congenial  and  thoroughly  friendly.  The  begin- 


ASLEEP? 

ning  of    our   journey    was    delightfully  auspi- 
cious. 

The  ladies  were  given  the  exclusive  use  of 
their  car  at  a  fairly  early  hour  and  they  claimed 
this  morning  that  they  all  went  to  sleep  with 
commendable  promptitude.  Of  course,  no 
one  would  doubt  their  entire  veracity  upon 
this  subject,  but  their  proud  boasts  came  pain- 
fully close  upon  the  heels  of  the  complaints  of 
the  Sir  Knights,  who,  it  must  be  confessed, 
did  not  seek  tired  nature's  sweet  restorer  until 
after  midnight.  A  sleepless  hour  or  so  had 
passed  when  the  mellifluous  voice  of  the  Judge 
broke  the  silence  with  "  Say,  they  are  switch- 
ing us  to  the  rear,5'  and  the  bumping  and 
thumping  which  followed  proved  the  truth  of 
his  assertion.  So  at  the  end  of  the  long  train 
we  were  whirled  away  through  the  darkness 
toward  the  St.  Lawrence.  It  is  known  that 
three  or  four  Sir  Knights  did  sleep — the  evi- 
dence was  too  sonorously  conclusive  to  be  dis- 
puted. That  genial  railroad  man,  Mr.  Man- 

23 


TOUR  OF  THE  ST.  ELMOS. 

ning,  remarked  reassuringly,  "They  won't 
snore  so  after  they  get  used  to  it."  It  is  to  be 
sincerely  hoped  that  Mr.  Manning  is  a  genuine 

I 

prophet. 

A  cruel  report  is  also  current  that  there  was 
snoring  in  the  ladies'  car.  "  Keep  it  dark." 

Just  before  5  o'clock  this  morning  the  porter 
entered  the  car.  "  Wish  you  a  merry  Christ- 
mas," was  the  greeting  of  a  sleepy  Sir  Knight. 
In  a  few  minutes  there  was  a  scramble  for  the 
wash  room,  and  our  first  day's  life  upon  the 
rail  was  begun. 

Good  Deacon  Taylor,  of  Chicopee,  became 
the  center  of  an  admiring  group  as  he  flour- 
ished a  spiral  looking  instrument  which  some 
of  the  spectators  called  a  corkscrew.  What 
was  he  going  to  do  with  it,  we  wondered.  Our 
curiosity  was  soon  agreeably  satisfied,  for  the 
little  twisted  piece  of  steel  proved  the  open 
sesame,  in  the  hands  of  the  expert  deacon,  to 
a  bottle  of  "  Chicopee  cider,"  an  effervescing, 
sparkling,  invigorating  fluid, — so  some  of  them 

24 


NE  W  ENGLA  ND  SCENER  Y. 

who  tasted  it  said.  The  deacon  is  a  great  addi- 
tion to  the  party  ;  we  can  hardly  be  lonesome 
while  he's  around. 

The  scenery  on  every  side  is  very  attractive, 
a  narrow  valley  shut  in  by  peculiar  hills  ;  in 
changing  view  a  beautiful  river  with  the 
romantic  name  "  Winooski,"  successions  of 
sharp  rolls,  rugged  rocks,  small  cultivated  fields, 
here  and  there  a  neat  house,  deep  gorges,  shady 
ravines,  inviting  little  nooks,  and  over  and 
amid  all,  the  light  curling  mist  assuming  weird 
fantastic  shapes  pierced  by  the  level  shafts  of 
the  rising  sun.  Freshness,  attractiveness  and 
loveliness  everywhere.  Approaching  St.  Albans 
the  view  widens  occasionally  ;  a  far-reaching 
stretch ;  then  beautiful  Magnam  bay  flashes 
back  the  glory  of  the  rising  sun.  About  St. 
Albans  the  country  is  somewhat  flat.  We 
skirt  the  shore  of  Lake  Champlain  and  can 
only  be  induced  to  turn  from  the  charms  with- 
out by  the  counter-charms  of  a  tip-top  break- 
fast, evolved  by  some  species  of  magic  from 

25 


TOUR  OF  THE  ST.  ELMO'S. 

the  inner-consciousness  of  the  tiny  quarters 
where  the  cooks  reign  supreme.  Such  cooks  ! 
Our  tables  were  up  to  the  mark  of  first-class 
hotel-fare.  The  early  day  is  beautiful.  Ample 
justice  is  done  and  a  lately  hungry  party  dis- 
perses for  diversion  pleased  and  satisfied. 
These  cars  of  the  Worcester  Excursion  Car 
Company  prove  to  be  perfect  in  all  their  ap- 
pointments. What  frolics  we  enjoyed !  A 
Sir  Knight  is  seated  at  the  piano.  Songs, 
choruses  and  impromptu  rounds  with  a  grand 
jig  executed  by  Sir  Knight  John  Coe  (he  is  a 
high  stepper),  bring  out  peals  of  merry  laugh- 
ter. We  glance  betimes  at  finely  cultivated 
farms,  the  busy  haymakers — the  clustering 
happy  faces  at  the  homes  we  swiftly  pass.  The 
view  is  cut  off  now  and  then  by  seemingly 
interminable  trains  of  freight  cars.  Still  the 
landscape  widens,  shut  in  by  the  distant  moun- 
tain tops.  We  are  blessed  with  delightfully 
cool  weather  this  morning.  Let  us  hope  it  is 
as  cool  at  home  as  we  find  it  here  in  Canada. 

26 


MONTREAL. 

We  reach  Montreal,  with  its  narrow,  tortu- 
ous streets  and  wide,  shady  avenues,  substantial 
and  slow-going,  with  costly  buildings  and 
queer  old  rookeries.  We  visit  Mount  Royal, 
from  which  the  city  takes  its  name  and  look  on 
the  grand  panorama,  famous  as  it  is  rare. 

From  the  Itinerary. 

"  Upon  the  approach  to  Montreal  the  train 
passes  through  the  tube  of  the  famous  Victoria 
Bridge.  This  great  structure  is  one  and  a 
quarter  miles  in  length,  or,  with  its  approaches, 
nearly  one  and  three-quarter  miles,  and  cost 
nearly  seven  millions  of  dollars.  The  tube  for 
the  railway  is  sixty  feet  above  the  summer 
level  of  the  St.  Lawrence  River,  and  rests  on 
twenty-four  piers,  which  are  placed  two  hun- 
dred and  forty-two  feet  apart,  except  in  the 
centre,  where  the  span  is  three  hundred  and 
thirty  feet.  The  view  of  the  Canadian  me- 
tropolis is  very  fine,  the  city  occupying  the 
beautiful  slopes  of  Mount  Royal.  Among  the 
prominent  objects  seen  are  the  twin  towers  of 

27 


TOUR  OF  THE  ST.  ELMO'S. 

Notre  Dame,  the  dome  of  the  Bonsecours 
Market,  Christ  Church  Cathedral,  the  unfin- 
ished St.  Peter's  Cathedral,  McGill  College, 
and  several  mammoth  Catholic  hospitals  and 
educational  institutions,  including  the  Grey 
Nunnery,  or  L'Hopital  General  deles  Soeures 
Grises.  After  leaving  Montreal  the  railway 
skirts  the  north  bank  of  the  River  St.  Law- 
rence for  a  long  distance,  affording  many 
glimpses  of  the  great  stream,  with  its  rapids 
and  beautiful  islands.  St.  Anne,  Cornwall, 
Prescott,  Brockville,  Kingston  and  Cobourg 
are  passed  through  before  Toronto  is  reached.'* 


KIND  FRIENDS. 


CHAPTER  III. 

HOTEL  ON  WHEELS,  July  25. 
We  were  en  route  for  Lachine  at  5  r.  M., 
embarking  on  the  staunch  steamer  "  Prince  of 
Wales  "  for  a  pleasant  sail  down  the  St.  Law- 
rence. "  Shooting  the  rapids  "  is  to  a  timid 
person  quite  an  exciting  trip.  The  broad 
surface  boiling  and  seething  from  shore  to 
distant  shore,  the  slope  of  the  river,  the  down- 
ward pitch  of  the  prow,  the  sudden  drop  of  the 
deck,  the  huge  waves  white  with  foam  meet- 
ing the  plunging  craft  again  and  again,  the 
skill  with  which  the  men  at  the  wheel  turn 
her  hither  and  thither,  bringing  the  delighted 
passengers  safely  into  the  smoother  waters 
below,  combine  to  give  zest  and  peculiar  charm 
to  running  the  rapids.  We  were  accompanied 
by  Sir  Knight  S.  W.  Cummings,  general  pas- 
senger agent  of  the  Central  Vermont,  and  S. 
W.  Manning,  New  England  agent  of  the 

2Q 


TOUR  OF  THE  ST.  ELMO'S. 

Atchison,  Topeka  and  Santa  Fe.  These  gen- 
tlemen furnished  carriages  for  a  drive  after  the 
pleasant  sail.  They  have  done  all  in  their 
power  to  make  the  pilgrimage  of  St.  Elmo  a 
success.  Both  have  repeatedly  visited  Meriden. 
To  their  labors  we  owe  our  elegant  itinerary, 
published  and  presented  with  the  compliments 
of  the  roads  over  which  we  pass.  Mr.  Man- 
ning sent  checks  for  our  baggage  and  came  to 
Meriden  in  person  to  start  with  us,  and  ac- 
companies us  as  far  as  Pueblo,  Colorado.  We 
appreciate  his  wise  suggestions  and  valuable 
services  every  day.  To  these  two  excellent 
gentlemen  we  owe  a  debt  of  gratitude,  and 
can  safely  recommend  to  their  hands  any  who 
may  contemplate  a  visit  to  the  Golden  Gate. 

The  evening  brought  a  favor  from  the  rail- 
road. We  were  given  a  special  train  from 
Montreal  to  Toronto,  333  miles,  an  extra 
engine  being  furnished.  The  evening  until 
our  departure  at  10  o'clock  was  very  pleasantly 
passed  in  our  quarters  in  company  with  both 

3° 


LAKE  ONTARIO. 

the  above  mentioned  gentlemen  and  other 
friends.  Among  our  visitors  we  were  glad  to 
meet  Miss  Alice  Porter,  of  Meriden. 

During  the  night  each  luxurious  couch  was 
occupied  by  a  thoroughly  sound  sleeper.  "The 
seven  sleepers  of  Ephesus"  were  nowhere.  By 
the  way,  our  couches  are  1 2  inches  wider  than 
the  berths  of  an  ordinary  sleeping  car.  The 
morning  of  the  25th  dawned  cool  and  lovely. 
We  were  speeding  through  a  farming  region, 
so  fine  as  to  elicit  expressions  of  surprise.  On 
our  left  we  soon  descried  the  bright  blue 
Ontario.  The  morning  sunlight  on  its  unruf- 
fled waters  draws  out  long  lines  of  varying 
shades,  like  unrolled  ribbons.  Here  a  narrow 
band  of  deep,  dark  blue  and  by  its  side  a  line 
of  glimmering  pearly  white.  A  short  stop  at 
Cobourg  calls  up  pleasant  words  concerning  Sir 
Knight  H.  Wales  Lines.  He  will  appreciate 
the  allusion.  The  view  of  New  Castle  as  seen 
from  the  windows  on  our  right  is  charming. 
The  ladies  having  joked  the  Sir  Knights  on  the 

31 


TOUR  OF  THE  ST.  ELMO'S. 

subject  of   cigars,  have  procured  a  supply  of 
chewing  gum.     The  result  no  one  can  foresee. 

I  have  just  heard  a  laughable  incident 
connected  with  our  ride  to  Mount  Royal.  Sir 
Knight  John  Coe  mounted  the  driver's  seat 
and  as  soon  as  the  coachman  had  closed  the 
door  drove  off  at  full  speed.  He  kept  the 
poor  fellow  to  his  best  trotting  time  for  quite 
a  distance  amid  the  cheers  and  jeers  of  the  hack- 
men  and  others,  who  appreciated  the  situation. 

To  our  genial  traveling  companion,  who  is 
a  general  favorite,  we  are  again  indebted.  Mr. 
Manning  has  just  furnished  us  carriages  for  a 
ride  about  Toronto.  It  is  a  beautiful  city  with 
noticeable  quaint  features.  Its  streets,  finely 
laid  out,  generally  at  right  angles,  are  broad 
and  shaded.  Plank  sidewalks  are  universal 
and  plank  curbs  general.  College  street,  200 
feet  wide,  long  and  straight,  with  lawns  in  the 
center  and  on  each  side,  thick  with  fine  trees 
and  beds  of  flowers,  leads  to  Queen's  Park, 
which  is  large,  pleasant  and  quaint.  Horticul- 

32 


TORONTO. 

tural  garden  with  its  splendid  buildings  is 
beautiful.  Well  kept  grounds  abound,  and 
one  is  delighted  at  every  turn.  The  educa- 
tional institution  is  noticeable  for  its  extensive, 
fine  and  elegant  grounds.  Here  are  seventy- 
eight  churches  and  many  very  fine  public  build- 
ings. The  churches  are  in  the  main  exception- 
ally elegant  and  large.  Several  railroads  center 
here.  There  is  also  a  spacious  bay  and  well- 
sheltered  harbor.  The  site  of  the  town  was 
selected  in  1794  by  Governor  Simcoe  and 
called  York  until  1834,  at  which  time  it  became 
incorporated.  It  was  the  capital  of  Upper 
Canada  till  1841.  It  was  the  site  of  the 
united  government  alternately  with  Quebec, 
from  1849  to  1858,  and  has  been  a  capital  of 
Ontario  since  1867. 

In  roaming  about,  Sir  Knight  Cook  was 
pointed  out  as  Webb,  the  swimmer.  The  news 
of  the  death  of  Captain  Webb  does  not  seem 
to  have  been  received  yet.  Among  the  favors 
extended  let  me  here  mention  a  telegram  from 

33 


TOUR  OF  THE  ST.  E LAW'S. 

Pueblo,  Col.,  inviting  St.  Elmo  to  attend  a  re- 
ception and  banquet  at  the  hands  of  the  Pueblo 
Commandery.  This  day  also  came  to  hand  a 
telegram  from  St.  Elmo  Commandery  of 
Paola,  Kan.,  to  attend  a  reception  and  to  break- 
fast with  them  at  Kansas  City.  The  St.  Elmos 
of  Paola  travel  43  miles  to  Kansas  City  to  ex- 
tend this  knightly  courtesy.  They  selected 
their  name  in  our  honor,  and  in  token  of  ap- 
preciation ;  our  commandery  upon  receiving 
from  Paola  notification  of  this  high  honor, 
sometime  since  presented  and  forwarded  an 
elegant  "  libation  set."  The  parent  accepts 
with  great  pleasure  the  compliment  tendered. 
Between  Toronto  and  Hamilton,  Sir  Knight 
John  Coe  was  presented  with  a  testimonal  with 
appropriate  speech-making.  The  Sir  Knight 
has  searched  in  vain  for  a  Dude  Hat.  His 
friends  found  a  parasol  fitted  to  be  worn  on 
the  head,  and  surprised  him  by  a  public  cor- 
onation. He  declares  he  will  wear  it  during 
the  trip.  It  should  be  seen  to  be  appreciated. 

34 


PLEASANT  TRAVELING. 

At  Toronto  we  were  favored  with  a  visit  from 
Mr.  John  M.  Blackburn,  superintendent  of 
the  manufactory  of  the  Meriden  Silver  Plate 
Company  at  this  place,  who  lately  removed 
here  from  Meriden.  It  is  worthy  of  note  that 
we  have  not  suffered  from  heat  and  have  no  dust. 
Our  windows  are  fitted  with  closely  woven 
screens  of  very  fine  wire,  but  to-day  these  are 
out,  as  the  fresh  green  grass  close  to  the  track 
prevents  all  trouble.  There  is  abundant  evi- 
dence of  plentiful  rains. 


35 


TOUR  OF  THE  ST.  ELMO'S. 


CHAPTER  IV. 

HOTEL  ON  WHEELS,  July  26. 
Our  hotels  are  stationed  for  the  night  at  the 
Canadian  entrance  of  the  supension  bridge, 
where  the  air  is  tremulous  with  the  ceaseless 
thunder  of  grand  Niagara.  We  are  met  here 
by  Mr.  Wm.  E.  Hoyt,  general  passenger  agent 
of  the  Chicago  and  Alton  railroad,  whom  his 
friend  Mr.  Manning  introduced  to  each  mem- 
ber of  the  party.  He  has  made  ample  arrange- 
ments for  our  comfort  over  his  road.  Our 
party  scatters  ;  some  go  over  to  the  American 
side  and  some  visit  the  Clifton  house  on  the 
Canadian  side.  The  glory  of  the  falls  and  the 
rapids  dawns  on  each,  and  on  some  for  the  first 
time.  We  retire  "  in  good  order"  with 
promise  of  an  early  breakfast.  After  experi- 
encing the  sleep  of  the  just,  the  first  surprise 
of  the  day  is  the  presentation  of  a  fine  cane  to 
Sir  Knight  E.  C.  Birdsey.  It  was  the  gift  of 


NIAGARA. 

Mr.  Hoyt  of  the  Chicago  and  Alton.  Our 
breakfast  comes  on  time,  as  usual.  By  the 
way,  I  must  repeat  :  our  meals  are  superb— 
the  equal  of  those  of  the  very  best  hotels.  We 
sing  the  high  praises  of  the  Worcester  Ex- 
cursion Car  company  for  furnishing  us  two 
such  cooks.  Our  three  quatermasters,  Sir 
Knights  Coe,  Cook  and  Strong,  have  sup- 
plied carefully  selected  material  and  these 
splendid  cooks  know  exactly  what  to  do  with 
it.  We  find  the  carriage  riding  and  sight-see- 
ing keep  all  hands  employed  until  the  hour  for 
the  rendezvous  at  our  "home." 

How  well  the  Iroquois  named  the  world's 
wonder — "  Niagara" — (Thunder  of  waters). 
No  language  can  describe  it.  Two  millions  of 
tons  hurled  each  minute  down  the  fearful 
chasm.  Every  time  one  sees  it  the  everlast- 
ing impression  of  the  sublime  deepens.  Two 
suspension  bridges  span  the  boiling  flood  below 
the  falls,  and  a  third  is  well  under  way.  We 
visit  the  terrible  whirlpool  where  the  daring 

37 


TOUR  OF  THE  ST.  ELMO'S. 

Webb  went  down  yesterday.  From  thence  to 
the  Burning  Spring,  at  the  head  of  the  upper 
rapids,  all  is  awfully  grand.  The  illuminated 
fountains  at  evening  in  Prospect  park  are  very 
beautiful.  Our  return  to  Hamilton,  Ont., 
brings  our  record  of  miles  up  to  834.  We  find 
our  friend  John  E.  Parker,  formerly  of  Meri- 
den,  at  present  superintendent  of  the  Meriden 
Britannia  company's  extensive  branch  factories 
located  here.  Stephen  M.  Russell  and  Charles 
C.  Foot,  formerly  of  Meriden,  also  came  to 
meet  us  at  the  depot.  It  is  a  great  pleasure 
thus  to  meet  old  friends.  En  route  again, 
speeding  through  the  provinces  towards  Michi- 
gan, the  party  beguiles  the  time  with  games 
and  conundrums ;  some  of  the  latter  were 
original  and  occasioned  much  mirth.  We  are 
passing  through  a  country  at  once  presenting 
indications  of  newness  and  age.  We  find  at 
London,  Ont,  more  railroad  cars  than  any  of 
us  ever  saw  at  once.  We  meet  wonderfully 
long  trains  of  cattle.  The  weather  is  still  cool 

38 


FOR  T  ED  WARD  FERR  Y. 

and  dust  is  not  troubling  us.  The  presentation 
of  an  engraved  napkin  ring  this  afternoon 
called  out  peals  of  laughter.  Our  cars  are  so 
large  that  the  entire  party  can  easily  be  accom- 
modated in  either.  We  are  notified  when  there's 
fun  ahead.  The  engraving  upon  this  ring  was 
done  on  the  train.  It  is  unique.  This  is  de- 
cidedly a  happy  party,  enjoying  each  passing 
hour.  At  last  we  reach  Sarnia,  on  the  river  St. 
Clair.  At  Fort  Edward  our  train  is  run  out  to 
an  immense  ferry  boat.  Seventy-two  cars 
crossed  in  less  than  one  hour.  One  hundred 
and  eight  cars  can  be  ferried  over  per  hour, 
each  hour  in  the  day.  Just  as  we  start 
across  we  are  favored  with  a  visit  from  W.  H. 
Pettibone,  general  superintendent  of  Chicago 
and  Grand  Trunk  railroad,  accompained  by  R. 
Luttrell,  superintendent  at  this  point.  The 
general  superintendent  came  up  from  Chicago 
to  meet  us.  We  are  promised  every  attention. 
Mr.  Luttrell  invited  the  entire  party  to  ascend 
to  the  upper  deck  and  directed  attention  to  the 

39 


TOUR  OF  THE  ST.  ELMO'S. 

chief  points  of  interest  "as  we  sailed."  He  has 
also  referred  to  our  Itinerary,  and  offers  on  our 
return  trip  a  fishing  expedition.  He  will  fur- 
nish us  with  fine  boats  and  all  necessary  tackle. 

At  last  having  bidden  the  cross  of  St. 
George  adieu  we  salute  the  beautiful  stars  and 
stripes.  What  loads  of  fun.  We  celebrate 
the  occasion  with  games  which  make  the  roof 
ring.  If  hearty  laughter  promotes  digestion, 
then  good-bye  dyspepsia. 

One  half  the  entire  width  of  the  car  being 
cleared  we  organize  a  grand  ball,  our  useful 
companion  Mr.  Manning  as  prompter.  There 
is  no  lack  of  exercise.  We  have  room  for 
eight  couples  and  spectators.  Among  the 
musical  instruments,  quite  an  attraction  is  a  tin 
pan  and  a  shoe  played  with  rare  skill  by  His 
Honor  Sir  Knight  Doolittle.  Sir  Knight 
Perkins  also  shows  remarkable  proficiency  in 
his  great  skillet  and  knuckles  act.  We  pro- 
pose to  organize  a  minstrel  troup,  San  Fran- 
cisco minstrels,  jr. 


COURT  OF  JUSTICE, 

The  announcement  is  made  that  the  ladies' 
car  is  ready,  and  bidding  them  adieu  we  pro- 
ceeded to  open  court.  Case  follows  case,  and 
when  Sir  Knight  Judge  Coe  comes  in  as  an 
interested  party,  his  honor  the  mayor  occupies 
the  wool-sack  and  dispenses  "  justice."  The 
decisions  of  this  court  ought  to  go  on  record. 
There  seems  to  be  considerable  chance-ry  about 
it.  Business  is  rushed  and  the  docket  cleared 
before  turning  in  for  the  night. 

We  are  on  a  special  train  again  with  general 
superintendent  Pettibone.  St.  Elmo  is  whirl- 
ed in  advance  of  the  regular,  over  the  level 
line,  a  mile  a  minute.  Great  spikes,  what  a 
spin  !  The  speed  is  exciting.  We  can't  sleep 
much,  but  most  of  us  are  a  little  ahead  on  sleep. 

The  morning  of  the  27th  shows  us  the 
eastern  sky  glowing  as  if  it  were  the  concave 
of  a  huge  pearly  shell.  The  air  is  delicious 
and  we  make  ready  for  Chicago. 

The  country  is  mainly  a  vast  plain,  the 
houses  generally  small.  As  we  near  Chicago  we 

41 


TOUR  OF  THE  ST.  ELMO'S. 

note  the  strange  custom  of  planting  a  single  row 
of  trees  around  a  small  plot,  enclosing  a  house 
and  barn.  These  are  mainly  poplars  and  look 
lonesome  in  the  hundreds  of  shrubless  acres. 
Other  trees  grow  finely.  The  dark  rich  foliage 
is  proof  that  the  entire  region  might  be  made  a 
veritable  garden  of  Eden.  Near  the  city,  cab- 
bage patches  are  seen  by  the  square  mile. 
There's  a  pretty  shepherdess  leaning  on  her  mop. 
But  I  must  stop,  for  here  is  Chicago. 

Our  route  has  crossed  the  state  of  Michigan 
and  the  upper  portion  of  Indiana. 


BKAIDWOOD. 


CHAPTER  V. 

HOTEL  ON  WHEELS,  July  27. 

At  Chicago  we  are  met  by  Mr.  James 
Charlton,  general  passenger  and  ticket  agent 
of  the  Chicago  and  Alton  railroad,  and  Mr. 
John  M.  Gates,  general  traveling  agent  of  the 
same  road,  both  residents  of  Chicago.  These 
gentlemen  will  accompany  our  party  over 
their  railroad  to  Kansas  City.  They  had  set 
aside  one  of  their  luxurious  dining  palace  cars 
and  invited  the  knights  and  their  ladies  to  a 
sumptuous  repast.  They  have  also  put  into 
our  lockers  a  fine  present  for  the  party.  We 
are  off  during  a  shower  which  settles  the  dust 
question  effectually. 

In  crossing  the  state  of  Illinois  we  pass 
through  Braidwood,  where  the  Diamond  mine 
disaster  occurred  recently.  It  remains  to-day 
as  at  the  close  of  the  ineffectual  attempts  to 
find  the  bodies  of  the  miners.  The  road  over 

43 


TOUR  OF  THE  ST.  ELMO'S. 

which  we  pass  has  a  branch  of  100  miles  run- 
ning through  the  coal  district.  The  Chicago 
and  Alton  passes  through  an  attractive  region. 
There  is  more  of  variety  in  the  landscape. 
We  pass  through  fields  of  corn  sometimes  ex- 
tending as  far  as  the  eye  can  reach  in  either 
direction  from  the  track.  Trees  of  various 
kinds  abound  and  the  land  is  productive.  East 
from  Chicago  there  are  no  towns  within  forty 
miles  on  any  of  the  railroad  lines.  One  line 
runs  fifty-seven  miles  before  reaching  a  town. 
The  land  is  not  only  flat  but  inclined  to  be 
marshy.  West  from  Chicago  one  strikes  towns 
at  once.  The  management  of  the  Chicago 
and  Alton  is  in  striking  contrast  with  that  of 
many  roads.  The  regular  train  to  which  our 
cars  are  attached  consists  of  an  elegant  smok- 
ing car,  one  day-coach,  two  reclining-chair 
cars,  one  Pullman  sleeper  and  one  dining-car. 
The  reclining-chair  cars  are  worthy  of  note. 
There  is  room  for  forty-four  passengers.  The 
chairs  can  be  easily  set  at  any  desired  angle. 

44 


CHICAGO  AND  ALTON. 

For  reclining,  the  top  of  the  back  comes  for- 
ward, forming  an  easy  pillow  for  the  head. 
Having  reclined,  I  am  able  to  state  that  they 
are  the  easiest  car  seats  in  the  world.  For 
these  this  company  makes  to  passengers  no 
extra  charge — think  of  that !  In  each  car  is 
also  a  smoking  room,  and  a  cosy  wash  room 
with  every  convenience.  The  coupling  is 
double  and  absolutely  proof  against  telescoping. 
In  the  delightful  reclining  chair  cars  of  the 
Chicago  and  Alton  one  can  travel  to  Kansas  City 
with  less  of  weariness  than  an  ordinary  car  would 
cause  in  one-fourth  the  distance.  The  dining  car 
is  the  prettiest  and  most  complete  I  ever  saw. 
The  railroad  managers  here  know  how  to  do 
things. 

Near  Bloomington  the  country  becomes  a 
little  rolling.  Hedges  of  Osage  orange  are 
seen,  adding  materially  to  the  attractiveness 
of  the  landscape,  which  is  not  only  diversified 
but  bright  flowers  are  blooming  along  the 
track.  The  town  of  Normal  is  very  pretty, 

45 


TOUR  OF  THE  ST.  ELMO'S. 

and  is  the  seat  of  the  Normal  schools  and  of 
the  State  University.  It  might  be  a  beautiful 
town  were  it  not  for  the  very  apparent  lack  of 
public  spirit.  The  cars  of  the  Chicago  and 
Alton  railroads  are  all  built  by  the  railroad 
company  and  the  manufactories  located  at 
Bloomington  are  remarkable  for  solidity. 
The  immensity  of  the  company's  works  may 
be  judged  by  the  fact  that  their  pay-roll  here 
is  over  $100,000  a  month.  The  officers  of  the 
Chicago  and  Alton  at  Bloomington,  placed  on 
our  car  two  large  crates  of  fruit  for  the  party. 
Our  ladies  say  that  the  people  think  a  good 
deal  of  Connecticut.  Six  large  and  beautiful 
bouquets  are  also  brought  on  board  to  adorn 
our  tables.  Their  fragrance  fills  the  air.  Later 
the  gentleman  waiters  from  the  Chicago  and 
Alton  dining  car  pin  a  button-hole  bouquet  to 
the  coat  of  each  Sir  Knight  and  present  one  to 
each  lady  just  before  we  are  called  to  our  even- 
ing repast.  At  Bloomington,  in  boring  for 
coal,  at  the  depth  of  two  hundred  feet,  an  un- 

46 


KANSAS. 

derground  river  was  struck.  A  stand  pipe  and 
pumping  apparatus  was  erected  and  pipes  to 
distribute  water.  It  is  of  excellent  quality 
and  ample  in  quantity.  At  Greenville  we  dis- 
cover a  huge  hill  of  refuse  from  the  coal  mines 
on  fire  ;  a  case  of  spontaneous  combustion. 

From  Itinerary. 

"  The  Chicago  and  Alton  railroad  is  the 
short  line  between  Chicago  and  Kansas  City, 
and  is  equipped  with  the  finest  cars  in  the 
world.  Leaving  Chicago  the  road  traverses 
some  of  the  most  prosperous  parts  of  Illinois 
and  Missouri,  passing  through  the  following 
cities  :  Joliet,  Bloomington  and  Jacksonville 
in  Illinois;  Louisiana,  Mexico,  Glasgow  and 
Marshall  in  Missouri.  The  Mississippi  River 
is  crossed  at  Louisiana,  and  the  Missouri  River 
at  Glasgow,  Mo.,  by  magnificent  iron  bridges. 

"  Kansas  City  is  a  large  and  busy  city  of 
about  65,000  inhabitants,  on  the  Missouri  side 
of  the  line,  and  one  of  the  most  important  rail- 
road centers  in  America.  Some  of  its  great 

47 


TOUR  OF  THE  ST.  E LAW'S. 

business  enterprises,  like  the  great  trans-con- 
tinental railway  line  which  stretches  westward, 
owe  their  existence  largely  to  Boston  capital. 
While  riding  through  Kansas  the  traveler  finds 
that  many  familiar  New  England  names  have 
been  bestowed  upon  towns  by  the  way,  one  of 
the  earliest  of  which  is  Lawrence,  so  called  in 
honor  of  Amos  Lawrence,  of  Boston.  Topeka, 
the  capital  of  Kansas,  is  66  miles  west  of 
Kansas  City." 

"The  main  line  of  the  A.,  T.  &  S.  F.  R.  R. 
extends  a  distance  of  no  less  than  486  miles 
within  the  borders  of  this  great  State.  The 
surface  of  the  State  embraces  in  alternation 
broad,  level  valleys  and  high,  rolling  prairies, 
with  a  gradual  rise  towards  the  Rocky  Moun- 
tains. The  eastern  section  is  well  settled  and 
is  devoted  largely  to  wheat  and  corn.  The 
western  section,  with  the  neighboring  parts  of 
Colorado  and  Nebraska,  is  given  up  chiefly  to 
cattle  grazing.  Dodge  City,  369  miles  west  of 
Kansas  City,  is  the  chief  center  of  the  cattle 


COLORADO. 


business.  The  route  in  passing  out  of  Kansas 
enters  Colorado,  which  it  traverses  for  a  con- 
siderable distance.  The  Rocky  Mountains 
here  come  into  view." 


49 


TOUR  OF  THE  ST.  ELMO'S. 


CHAPTER   VI. 

HOTEL  ON  WHEELS,  July  28. 
We  crossed  the  Illinois  river  in  the  early 
hours  of  the  night,  and  about  midnight  were 
passing  over  the  wonderful  bridge  spanning 
the  broad  Mississippi.  Several  of  the  Sir 
Knights  stood  in  the  doors  of  the  cars  to  look 
upon  the  mighty  "  Father  of  waters."  The 
morning  sun  smiles  on  the  hills  and  dales  of 
Missouri.  The  cars  free  from  dust,  the  morn- 
ing cool  and  delicious,  and  the  sweet  sleep  of 
the  night  prepares  us  for  the  heat  which  the 
noon-hour  may  perhaps  have  in  store.  We 
speed  along  the  iron  road  towards  Kansas  City. 
Glendale  is  passed,  where  a  short  stop  enables 
us  to  look  upon  the  water  tank  showing  the 
bullet  marks  of  the  Jesse  James  fight.  Here 
the  train  was  in  the  clutches  of  the  gang.  All 
seem  to  enjoy  the  immunity  which  Jesse  James' 
retirement  from  business  affords. 

50 


ST.  ELMO  OF  PA  OLA. 

At  Independence  a  committee  from  St. 
Elmo  Commandery  No.  22,  of  Paola,  Kan., 
came  on  board.  Introductions  are  in  order, 
and  on  reaching  Kansas  City  we  meet  the  dele- 
gation sent  to  this  point :  Sir  D.  M.  Ferguson, 
E.  Q,  Sir  J.  F.  Donahue,  Gen.  Sir.H.  C. 
Jones,  C.  G.,  Sir  John  Wherrell,  Prel.,  Sir  J. 
B.  Jobson,  S.  W.,  Sir  J.  S.  Beason,  J.  W., 
Judge  Sir  W.  R.  Wagstaff,  Sir  A.  K.  Sellers, 
Sir  J.  W.  Rumby,  and  Sir  J.  L.  Pettyjohn. 
With  these  fraters  is  Hon.  Sir  Knight  Plumb, 
United  States  Senator  from  Kansas,  and  a 
warm  friend  of  Hon.  Sir  Knight  the  Senator, 
O.  H.  Platt,  of  our  own  city.  A  telegram 
reaches  us  here  from  E.  Sir  Knight  H.  Wales 
Lines  congratulating  the  two  St.  Elmo  com- 
manderies  on  this  meeting.  We  are  escorted 
to  a  breakfast  in  the  immense  building  which  is 
the  depot  for  seventeen  great  lines.  Then  the  Sir 
Knights  and  their  ladies  repair  at  once  to  our 
cars,  'accompained  by  Sir  C.  H.  Wood,  general 
agent  of  the  Atchison,  Topeka  and  Santa  Fe, 

5' 


TOUR  OF  THE  ST.  ELMO'S. 

and  Sir  H.  E.  Moss,  passenger  and  land  agent. 
The  speeches  are  short,  but  the  feeling  is  deep 
and  the  friendships  here  cemented  strong. 
The  St.  Elmos  of  Paola,  Kansas,  came  forty- 
three  miles  yesterday  to  meet  us  at  the  threshold 
of  their  state.  They  are  named  after  us  and  the 
two  commandries  feel  the  deepest  interest  each 
in  the  other's  welfare.  Good-byes  are  said, 
one  Paola  Sir  Knight  puts  it  thus  in  Missouri 
parlance  : 

"  It's  hard  for  you'uns  and  we'uns  to  part, 

When  you'uns  know  that  you'uns  have  got  we'unses'  heart." 

Senator  Plumb  accompanies  us  on  our  trip, 
and  Sir  Knight  William  H.  Decker,  of  Las 
Vegas  commandery,  also  comes  among  us  at 
this  point.  We  are  met  here  by  Sir  Knight 
Max  Frost,  eminent  commander  of  Santa  Fe 
commandery,  who  is  chairman  of  a  committee 
to  extend  to  us  the  hospitalities  of  his  com- 
mandery. This  Sir  Knight  also  becomes  a 
member  of  our  party.  Me  is  Register  of  the 
United  States  land  office.  It  is  a  pleasant 

52 


THE  KA  W. 

party  swiftly  skirting  the  shore  of  the  Kavv  and 
tearing  away  towards  the  wonderful  corn-fields 
of  eastern  Kansas,  corn  so  high  as  to  hide  a 
mounted  horseman  and  fields  too  extensive  to 
limit  by  the  sweep  of  the  eye.  The  town  of 
Meriden  is  on  the  line  of  the  Atchison,  Topeka 
and  Santa  Fe  railroad,  not  far  from  Kansas 
City. 

Kansas  City  is  on  the  south  side  of  the 
Missouri  river.  After  leaving  this  city,  we 
cross  the  line  into  the  great  state  of  Kansas. 
We  are  peculiarly  fortunate  in  the  selection  of 
the  route.  The  Kansas  City  people  declare 
unhesitatingly  the  Atchison,  Topeka  and  Santa 
F£  railroad  is  decidedly  the  best  of  the  seventeen 
lines  which  radiate  from  this  center  ;  steel  rails 
throughout  its  length,  2289  miles,  stone  ballast- 
ing, best  cars,  best  hotels  on  the  route,  which 
by  the  way  are  all  owned  by  the  Atchison, 
Topeka  and  Santa  Fe*,  best  eating-houses,  and 
Manning  says  the  best  looking  set  of  men  in 
the  world.  Judging  by  the  specimens  seen, 

53 


TOUR  OF  THE  ST.  ELMO'S. 

including  our  friend  Manning,  the  facts  bear 
out  the  assertion.  "  He  is  just  as  good  as  he 
looks,  too."  "  So  say  we  all  of  us — so  say  we 
all."  We  admire  the  new  depot  at  Lawrence, 
the  historic  city.  How  fertile  the  soil  is  !  Sir 
Knight  Mather  says  he  has  seen  corn  enough 
to  feed  the  world.  It  is  a  delightful  land,  low 
hills  heavily  timbered,  level  fields  which  are 
gigantic  gardens,  and  fruit  trees  in  their  lusty 
youth  surprising  their  owners  by  the  size  of 
their  productions.  We  watch  a  diminutive 
ferry  taking  its  precious  load  over  the  muddy 
waters  of  the  Kaw  (or  Kansas)  river ;  a  broad 
scow,  on  board  a  vehicle  with  its  single  horse, 
the  mother  calmly  seated,  carefully  shielding 
he*  darling  from  the  rays  of  the  sun  (a  future 
statesman,  perhaps  president,  they  all  come 
from  the  West),  standing  at  the  fore,  evidently 
ready  to  do  and  to  dare,  two  little  folks  cud- 
dled together  near  the  wheel,  and  the  strong 
man  with  brawny  bare  arms  wielding  a  pole 
longer  than  the  spire  of  the  Corner  church. 

54 


TOPEKA. 

Now  we  sweep  by  fields  again  with  corn  to  the 
right  of  us,  corn  to  the  left  of  us.  "  Pretty 
tall  corn." 

At  Topeka,  Mr.  Manning  points  out  the 
extensive  works  of  the  Atchison,  Topeka  and 
Santa  Fe*  railroad.  Topeka,  1,000  feet  above 
sea  level,  has  a  population  of  20,000,  half  of 
them  said  to  be  good  looking  women.  All 
the  state  offices  are  located  here,  with  fine 
public  buildings.  We  have  lost  the  trees ; 
the  heavily  wooded  hills  we  saw  further  east 
are  not  to  be  found.  It  is  a  treeless  country 
except  so  far  as  a  few  are  planted  here  and 
there.  Near  Osage  City  we  come  upon  the 
coal  regions.  In  this  section  it  is  found  near 
the  surface  and  is  a  dull  looking,  soft,  smoky 
fuel.  This  sort  of  country  must  make  a  man 
long  sighted,  yet  it  is  beautifully  rolling,  and 
corn  and  then  more  corn.  Lon  Jeffery  says 
the  sight  of  this  goodly  land  elicited  from  good 
brother  Joseph  Morse  the  words  "The  Sheen 
of  Queba."  We  are  shown  by  Senator  Plumb 

55 


TOUR  OF  THE  ST.  ELMO'S. 

the  farm  of  his  brother,  2,000  acres,  lying  on 
both  sides  of  the  track.  At  long  intervals 
some  railroad  conductor  steps  in.  We  note 
they  each  remove  the  hat.  Some  one  remarks, 
11  What  a  contrast !  Here  they  take  off  the 
hat ;  at  home  they  come  in  with  a  club." 

Emporia,  with  t  its  four  railroads,  its  beauti- 
ful wide  streets  and  its  substantial  buildings, 
is  a  lively  town.  It  possesses  for  us  a  peculiar 
interest,  being  the  home  of  Senator  Plumb, 
who  has  chatted  so  pleasantly  while  riding  sixty 
miles  in  our  car.  He  kindly  points  out  his 
fine  residence  at  our  request,  and  shaking 
hands  all  round  bids  us  God-speed  and  good- 
bye. 

We  do  not  see  any  lonesome  hay  stacks. 
They  are  placed  in  families,  immense  stacks, 
frequently  thatched,  bunched  together,  looking 
in  the  distance  like  a  cluster  of  great  brown 
tents. 

Beyond  Emporia  the  prairies  widen  away 
interminably.  Stony  City  presents  a  lively 


"THING  OF  BEAUTY:' 

sight.  Its  stock  yards  are  full  of  colts  ;  hun- 
dreds of  them.  On  the  fences  are  long  rows 
of  chaps,  and  others  standing  picturesquely 
around,  bent  on  trade.  The  cars  of  the  St. 
Elmo's  become  immediately  the  great  attrac- 
tion and  all  necks  are  stretched  and  twisted  to 
get  a  sight.  Just  beyond,  the  prairie-plows  are 
turning  up  the  furrows  black  as  muck. 

The  regular  excursion  ticket  furnished  by 
the  Atchison,  Topeka  and  Santa  Fe*,  is  a 
"thing  of  beauty."  It  is  in  book  form  bound 
at  the  end  and  illuminated  with  Knight 
Templar  emblems  in  gold ;  on  the  covers 
an  original  design  in  brilliant  colors  giving  a 
view  of  the  Golden  Gate  with  the  legend,  "  An 
ocean  sounding  welcome  to  the  Knights."  The 
loading  of  a  wagon  by  machinery  in  a  grain 
field  now  attracts  attention.  We  see  broad 
wheat  fields,  also  large  herds  of  cattle.  One 
of  the  ladies  quotes,  "A  thousand  cattle  on  a 
hill."  Prairie  chickens  put  in  an  appearance. 
Near  the  streams  a  few  plover  and  a  few  long- 

57 


TOUR  OF  THE  ST.  ELMO'S. 

legged  blue  heron  have  been  seen.  Windmills 
are  everywhere.  Gangs  of  plow  boys  seated 
on  the  wheeled  plows  drawn  by  three  horses, 
make  things  lively  where  the  ''tickled  soil" 
will  shortly  laugh  with  harvest  burden.  Think 
of  straight  furrows  more  than  a  mile  in  length. 
We  have  passed  Florence,  at  which  point  the 
Atchison,  Topeka  and  Santa  Fe*  enters  "the 
happy  hunting  grounds."  We  are  told  that 
prairie  chickens  and  quail  are  abundant  in  the 
fields,  and  the  streams  and  small  lakes  abound 
in  duck  and  geese.  "  Twenty  minutes  for 
refreshments,"  the  well  known  cry  !  We  are 
at  Newton,  a  lively  town  of  5,000  inhabitants. 
Our  friend  Manning  had  telegraphed  ahead 
and  invited  the  entire  party  to  dine.  The 
dining  room  is  one  of  many  owned  by  this  tip- 
top company  and  is  as  nicely  fitted  up  as  the 
dinner  is  complete.  So  our  cooks  and  waiters 
are  given  a  respite  while  the  favor  accorded 
the  party  is  enjoyed.  The  terrible  heat  proph- 
esied for  this  day's  ride  has  not  cost  us  any 

58 


INTO  COLORADO. 

appreciable  discomfort.  This  little  town  has 
its  commandery,  Newton,  No.  9  ;  eighty  mem- 
bers !  A  delegation  appears  and  welcomes  us. 
We  exchange  hasty  greetings  and  speed  away 
toward  the  Golden  Gate.  Beyond  Newton  the 
level  reaches  are  astonishers.  We  can  see  twenty 
miles  away,  the  surface  like  a  floor,  presenting 
the  various  lines  of  immense  tracts  of  different 
crops,  all  fertile  as  a  garden.  Near  Newton 
we  pass  the  first  emigrant  wagon,  suggestive 
of  the  olden  time. 

Hutchinson,  the  county  seat,  has  a  remark- 
ably wide  street,  which  presents  a  fine  appear- 
ance. We  notice  door  yard  fences,  which  are 
quite  an  innovation.  Why  are  not  all  the  streets 
laid  out  wide  ?  Surely  there's  room  enough. 
At  Nickerson  we  strike  the  Arkansas  river. 
The  repair  shops  of  the  Atchison,  Topeka  and 
Santa  Fe*  employ  a  large  number  of  men.  It 
is  a  full  grown  town  just  five  years  old  last 
September.  Here  is  a  very  large  round-house 
strongly  built  of  stone.  A  telegram  from  Mr. 

59 


TOUR  OF  THE  ST.  ELMOS. 

W.  F.  White,  general  passenger  and  ticket 
agent,  to  Mr.  Manning,  acquaints  us  with  the 
pleasing  fact  that  Mr.  Charles  T.  Parsons  has 
received  telegraphic  instruction  to  accompany 
the  party  on  our  return  from  Denver  to  Peublo 
and  Santa  Fe  or  Deming.  We  ride  beside  the 
Arkansas  river  for  a  distance  of  700  miles  into 
Colorado. 

The  ladies  are  enjoying  the  long  journey 
with  the  keenest  relish.  No  one  is  weary  and 
all  are  delighted  with  the  "  solid  comfort "  this 
mode  of  traveling  affords. 


LA   JUNTA. 


CHAPTER   VI L 

HOTEL  ON  WHEELS,  July  29. 

The  gray  dawn  discloses  level  plains,  with 
here  and  there  on  the  right  a  silvery  sugges- 
tion of  the  flowing  Arkansas.  Just  as  the 
glowing  disk  pours  floods  of  golden  glory  over 
all,  we  note  the  slackening  speed,  and  lo,  La 
Junta. 

The  little  place  is  very  pretty.  Two  tiny 
lawns  between  the  track  and  the  neatly  painted 
depot,  give  the  impression  of  oases  really  re- 
freshing. Several  of  the  buildings  near  are 
the  property  of  the  Atchison,  Topeka  and 
Santa  Fe,  and  are  neat  and  pretty.  Here  they 
have  also  built  a  large  stone  round-house. 
Just  beyond  the  station  we  are  given  hints  of 
coming  changes.  A  perpendicular  bank  is 
passed,  and  further  on  an  infant  canon  has 
been  suddenly  stopped  in  the  midst  of  its 
gyratory  convolutions.  We  are  informed  that 

61 


TOUR  OF  THE  ST.  ELMO'S. 

these  sand  dunes  and  plains  need  only  irriga- 
tion. 

Between  La  Junta  and  Pueblo  the  principal 
productions  seem  to  be  sage  brush,  cactus, 
jack-rabbits  and  prairie  dogs.  Judge  of  our 
surprise  on  learning  that  here  is  excellent 
grazing  ground.  In  fact,  on  many  ranches 
there  are  large  herds.  One  can  hardly  believe 
the  fine  condition  of  the  cattle  and  horses  is 
due  to  the  quality  of  the  "feed."  Our  break- 
fast is  served  and  at  an  early  hour  we  reach 
Pueblo.  This  city  must  be  seen  to  be  appre- 
ciated. We  shall  return  to  it.  At  this  point 
we  are  met  by  Sir  Knight  J.  B.  Kilbourn  and 
wife,  who  present  our  ladies  with  two  mag- 
nificent bouquets.  Sir  Knight  Kilbourn  was 
formerly  resident  at  Middletown,  Conn.,  and  is 
a  personal  friend  of  many  of  our  party.  He 
was  at  one  time  Grand  Generalissimo  of  Con- 
necticut. With  him  also  came  an  eminent  Sir 
Knight,  Colonel  M.  H.  Fitch,  Grand  Com- 
mander of  Colorado.  He  is  president  of  the 

62 


THE  "  SCENIC  ROUTE." 

Stock  Growers'  National  Bank  ;  also  Sir 
Knight  J.  W.  Stanton,  Past  Grand  Commander, 
a  congressman  and  a  personal  friend  of  Sir 
Knight  H.  Wales  Lines.  He  is  postmaster 
at  Pueblo ;  also  Sir  Knight  H.  N.  Banks, 
E.  G,  of  Pueblo  commandery.  Sir  Knight 
J.  B.  Kilbourn  and  wife  join  us  for  a  few  days, 
and  we  are  notified  of  a  reception  awaiting  us 
on  our  return. 

Our  ride  during  the  night  was  a  restful  one, 
the  line  being  level,  straight  and  smooth.  One 
Sir  Knight  said  this  morning,  "  The  Atchison, 
Topeka  and  Santa  Fe  is  the  best  railroad  I 
have  ever  seen."  I  believe  it.  We  leave  for 
Denver  over  the  Denver  and  Rio  Grande, 
known  as  "the  Scenic  Route."  What  these 
words  mean,  only  those  know  who  have  looked 
upon  these  scenes.  Pike's  Peak  lifts  its  snow- 
clad  summit  through  the  blue  mists  and  we 
begin  to  realize  that  we  are  far  from  home. 
This  mountain  is  14,216  feet  above  the  sea- 
level — almost  three  miles  in  an  upright  line. 


TOUR  OF  THE  ST.  ELMO'S. 

Pueblo  is  4,713  feet  in  altitude  and  the  grade 
is  up  until  we  reach  the  "  Divide,"  at  which 
point  we  are  more  than  a  thousand  feet  higher 
than  the  top  of  Mount  Washington.  I  have 
spoken  of  the  rich,  nutritious  quality  of  the 
grass.  Sir  Knight  Kilbourn  states  that  one 
hundred  weight  of  it  is  equal  to  three  of  east- 
ern grass.  Sir  Knight  John  W.  Coe  casually 
remarks  that  "  the  cream  is  a  thick  coat  before 
they  have  done  milking." 

The  day  is  cool  and  the  car  windows  are  all 
open,  yet  no  dust,  owing  to  the  recent  rains. 
Colorado  Springs  is  a  lovely  place,  and  is  a 
temperance  town.  Not  a  drop  of  liquor  is 
sold  and  none  can  be,  the  land  being  deeded 
conditionally  in  this  regard.  The  Antler  house 
is  a  very  fine  building  and  splendidly  located. 
Here  at  the  "  Divide  "  is  a  fine  artificial  lake 
with  a  fountain  playing  in  its  center.  It  is  the 
highest  point.  We  have  climbed  3,000  feet 
since  leaving  Pueblo,  and  the  city  of  Denver  is 
2,000  feet  lower.  A  stop  of  twenty  minutes 

64 


ROCKIES. 

enables  us  to  wash  our  hands  in  this  lofty  little 
lake.  A  run  of  a  single  rod  to  reach  the  start- 
ing train  makes  one  pant,  for  7,200  feet  is 
pretty  well  up  for  breath.  The  atmosphere  is 
dry.  We  have  on  our  way  passed  such  queer 
little  houses,  some  adobe,  some  board  shanties, 
some  log  huts,  all  small,  little  queer  houses 
from  which  the  family  step  out  into  scenes 
of  grandeur. 

From  Colorado  Springs  the  scenery  is  un- 
deniably fine.  We  cannot  take  our  eyes  from 
the  new  beauties  disclosed  at  every  turn.  Now 
and  then  fantastic  forms  appear ;  huge  masses, 
some  near,  some  a  score  of  miles  away ; 
strange,  weird,  castellated  rocks.  The  air  is 
marvelously  transparent.  In  the  blue  of  the 
far  away  haze,  great  chains  of  lofty  mountain 
peaks  are  piled  among  the  clouds.  Steep  es- 
carpments, rugged  canons,  mighty  masses 
like  castle  walls,  over  and  among  which  black 
shadows  of  fleeting  clouds  lose  themselves  in 
the  blacker  shades  of  beetling  cliffs.  A  rain 

65 


TO UR  OF  THE  ST.  ELMO'S. 

storm  sweeps  down  the  mountain  sides  miles 
upon  miles  away.  The  nearer  foot-hills  are 
clad  in  their  verdure  while  the  foreground, 
brilliant  with  many-hued  flowers,  swarms  with 
saucy  little  prairie  dogs.  Close  to  the  track  a 
mountain  stream  winds  along  with  its  margin 
of  cotton-wood  and  pine.  At  last  the  wonder- 
ful gateway  to  the  Garden  of  the  Gods  comes 
into  view. 

We  reach  Denver  on  time  and  take  carriages 
for  St.  James  hotel.  Here  we  rest.  Sunday 
in  this  wonderful  city  is  a  surprise  to  us.  The 
places  of  business  are  all  closed  excepting  the 
Jew  stores.  Liquor  saloons  are  in  full  blast, 
yet  the  streets  are  quiet.  The  churches  are  all 
well  filled.  The  evening  service  is  enjoyed  by 
the  Sir  Knights  and  their  ladies.  Denver  is  a 
marvel.  A  score  of  years  and  a  wild,  lonely 
spot,  becomes  a  beautiful  city  of  70,000  inhabi- 
tants, with  magnificent  buildings.  The  rail- 
road depot  built  of  lava  stone  and  light  sand- 
stone trimmings,  extorted  the  admiration  of 

66 


AT  DENVER. 

Vanderbilt.  We  find  by  experience  that 
slight  exertion  here  calls  for  rest,  but  one 
becomes  readily  accustomed  to  the  elevation. 
On  Monday  some  of  the  party  will  visit  the 
Exposition  buildings  and  all  go  sight-seeing. 
Senator  Tabor,  Sir  Knight  M.  Splangler, 
sheriff  of  Denver,  Sir  C.  H.  Gunn,  formerly 
of  Danbury,  Connecticut,  Sir  R.  M.  Wallace, 
General  of  South  Carolina  Commandery  of 
Charleston,  S.  C.,  Sir  D.  Downing,  vice-presi- 
dent of  the  Invincible  Mining  Company, 
Eminent  Sir  C.  H.  Sherman,  Commander  of 
Dunkirk  Commandery,  of  Dunkirk,  N.  Y., 
Eminent  Sir  G.  W.  Bence,  Eminent  Com- 
mander of  Greencastle,  Ind.,  and  very  many 
other  Sir  Knights  are  met.  The  best  trip  of 
a  single  day  is  through  the  Clear  Creek  Caflon 
to  Central  City. 

On  Monday  we  start  early  via  the  narrow 
gauge  railroad  for  Central  City.  Leaving 
Denver,  itself  "  marvelous  as  a  dream,"  in  a 
special  observation  car  kindly  furnished  us,  we 

67 


TOUR  OF  THE  ST.  ELMO'S. 


are  gratified  on  learning  that  we  are  to  have 
the  company  of  a  Sir  Knight  who  is  thorough- 
ly acquainted  with  the  route.  He  is  Past 
Grand  Commander  of  Colorado — Sir  Knight 
H.  M.  Orahood,  an  attorney  of  the  Union 
Pacific  and  the  law  partner  of  Secretary  of 
the  Interior,  Sir  Knight  H.  M.  Teller.  He 
is  Eminent  Commander  of  Central  City  Com- 
mandery,  No.  2.  Our  route  crosses  the  Platte. 
We  pass  Argo  and  the  famous  smelting  works 
of  Senator  Hill,  the  largest  works  of  the  kind 
in  the  world.  The  better  class  gold  ores  of 
Colorado,  Montana  and  Idaho  are  shipped 
here  and  to  Denver  and  Golden  for  smelting- 
We  cross  the  moving  Longmont  train  on  a 
bridge  over  their  track.  Our  course  is  the  arc 
of  an  immense  circle  until  we  strike  the  rapid 
waters  of  Clear  Creek.  Up,  up,  towards 
Golden,  with  Long's  and  Pike's  Peak  in  view. 
A  pretty  ranch  now  attracts  attention.  This 
is  a  Spanish  word  signifying  a  place  for  cattle. 
There  are  no  farms  here  ;  all  are  ranches. 

68 


CLEAR  CREEK  CAffON. 

We  reach  Golden.  Distance,  sixteen  miles, 
altitude,  5,710,  population,  3,300.  Here  is  a 
very  fine  Court-house.  A  large  and  elegant 
building  also  is  the  State  School  of  Mines. 
The  State  Reform  School  is  fine  and  suggests 
our  distant  home.  The  photograph  of  the 
Grand  Army  is  offered  here  for  sale,  and  Sir 
Knight  John  Coe  will  take  it  on  condition 
that  he  can  have  St.  Elmo's.  Judge  of  his 
countenance  when  gravely  informed  that  the 
plate  is  broken  in  attempting  the  picture. 
Mr.  Wooster,  treasurer  of  Deep  River  Savings 
bank,  of  Connecticut,  comes  on  the  train  to 
greet  us.  We  are  near  the  entrance  to  Clear 
Creek  Canon.  The  toy  railroad  sweeps  round 
a  curve  between  high  rounded  mountains  and 
in  a  trice  we  find  ourselves  climbing  a  fearful 
grade,  the  railroad  winding  like  a  serpent  on 
a  drunk  in  a  narrow  gorge  amid  rugged  crags 
a  thousand  feet  in  height.  All  is  wild,  yet  de- 
lightful. We  run  right  straight  toward  a  per- 
pendicular wall,  and  as  we  are  about  to  strike, 

69 


TOUR  OF  THE  ST.  ELMO'S. 

the  little  locomotive  pokes  its  nose  to  one  side 
and  we  are  whipped  around  a  sharp  curve,  all 
on  the  up  hill  principle.  We  are  beside  a  foam- 
ing stream  which  is  also  all  the  time  "  on  a 
bender."  How  on  earth  did  a  railroad  ever  get 
lost  in  this  narrow  chasm  ? 

At  one  of  the  stops  on  a  siding  where  breath- 
ing room  for  the  engine  is  found,  some  of  our 
party  jump  off  and  go  to  prospecting.  An  old 
resident  gleefully  laughs  and  says  with  face  all 
aglow  :  "  It  is  worth  a  pile  to  see  the  wonder 
on  every  countenance  in  here."  On  and  up 
we  speed.  Impossible  curves  and  bends  in 
impossible  places  !  Every  rod  a  totally  differ- 
ent view  !  All  grand,  all  wonderful.  The  rush 
of  the  plucky  little  engine  mingles  with  the 
roar  of  the  twisting  cataract  beside  it.  Nar- 
row gorges  at  sharp  angles  come  down  every- 
where. The  mountains  try  to  get  over  our 
heads,  and  make  it  out.  If  they  should  fall 
just  ahead  no  harm  could  ensue  for  the  train 
wouldn't  be  there.  The  track  gets  tangled 

70 


HANGING  ROCK. 

with  the  creek,  and  finally  gets  the  better  of  it. 
We  see  the  poor  creek  underneath.  It  will 
keep  the  other  side  of  the  train  perhaps.  We 
notice  pretty  falls,  and  just  beyond  an  old  ruin- 
ed bridge  leading  to  a  tunnel.  We  pass  dug- 
outs and  queer  huts,  and  as  the  squirming  train 
threatens  to  "get  even"  with  the  engine  we 
come  across  placer  miners. 

May,  1859,  saw  the  first  °f  that  WOI~k  m  this 
part  of  the  country.  It  would  be  interesting 
to  watch  it,  but  there's  too  much  to  see. 
There's  the  engineer  close  to  us,  looking  ahead 
by  twisting  his  neck  to  see  both  sides  of  the 
engine  at  once.  Hanging  Rock  gets  right 
over  our  heads.  All  along  the  sides  we  keep 
in  view  wild  frightened  looking  pines,  losing 
their  lives  in  a  vain  attempt  to  maintain  an  ex- 
istence. Here  we  pass  a  huge  mass  of  rock 
supported  by  a  bracing  timber ;  it  almost 
touches  the  passing  car.  The  colors  of  these 
rocks  are  varied,  but  generally  sombre.  If 
aerial  navigation  permits,  some  future  botanist 


TOUR  OF  THE  ST.  ELMO'S. 

may  add  new  beauties  to  his  collection  in  this 
gorge.  The  walls  close  in,  we  strain  our  necks 
to  look  up  and  out.  No  room  for  so  many  in 
here,  so  the  railroad  struggles  with  the  stream 
and  at  last  both  take  up  with  the  same  bed. 
The  retaining  walls  of  the  road  are  staunch 
and  men  are  here  everywhere  watching  it. 

The  mountain  on  one  side  recedes,  leaving  a 
small  place  in  the  heart  of  which  stands  a 
strange  pillar  of  rugged  stone.  The  train 
crawls  up  into  new  wonders.  We  shoot  around 
a  corner  of  a  perpendicular  rock  ;  on  the  top, 
high  in  air,  a  lofty  -pine  springs  from  its  ex- 
treme edge.  Here  is  a  wider  space  with  a  min- 
er's camp.  The  chasm  widens  with  sloping 
sides.  We  take  deep  inspirations  of  the  free  air 
in  the  open  space.  Wonderful  domes  close  in 
on  one  side  ;  then  suddenly  the  merciless  walls 
surround  us.  A  sharp  turn  leads  out  to  lovely 
open  spaces  between  receding  mountain  tops, 
seamed  and  gashed  by  countless  chasms.  At 
6904  feet  altitude  a  fork  in  the  canon  sends  one 

72 


-THEM'S  MINES. 

tortuous  railroad  to  Georgetown  and  another  to 
Central  City.  A  pretty  depot  nestles  beneath 
the  crags.  Central  City  being  a  temperance 
town  this  station  is  said  to  be  for  lager,  coal 
and  water.  The  rain  begins  to  sift  down  as  we 
commence  our  winding  way.  We  notice  num- 
erous holes  burrowing  in  the  sides  of  the 
mountain.  A  lovely  girl  seated  near  us  who 
says  she  is  from  Pennsylvania,  parts  her  ruby 
lips  and  imparts  the  information,  "  Them's 
mines." 

Standing  in  the  swift  waters,  three  miners 
are  washing  out  the  gold.  Here,  as  we  ascend 
the  rounded  peaks,  opens  a  wide  expanse  of 
sky.  The  sands  are  pitted,  channeled  and 
seamed  for  the  precious  particles.  Chinese 
characters  appear  over  the  doors  of  the  log 
huts.  Our  guide  informs  us  that  the  China- 
men live  well.  Their  pay  is  $45  per  month. 
They  "keep  house,"  using  rice,  with  quantities 
of  fine  meat  and  vegetables  and  always  have 
confections  brought  from  China.  The  wash- 

73 


TOUR  OF  THE  ST.  ELMOS. 

ing  for  gold  pays  where  not  previously  done. 
The  grade  is  steep  and  the  rocks  again  close 
in  and  almost  touch  us  on  either  side.  Tun- 
nels abound,  and  also  abandoned  smelting 
works.  The  great  establishments  below  can 
procure  fuel  while  these  cannot.  We  reach 
the  end  of  placer  mining  ;  we  pass  the  first 
quartz  mill.  The  first  smelting  works  were 
put  up  here  by  Senator  Hill.  Golden,  at  the 
mouth  of  the  canon,  is  the  outgrowth  of  this 
small  beginning.  General  Fitz  John  Porter 
built  the  second  works.  We  reach  Black 
Hawk.  It  is  impossible  to  tell  where  this  min- 
ing town  ends  and  Central  City  begins,  yet  the 
railroad  runs  four  miles  to  Central  City.  It  is 
a  very  high  point  to  reach.  The  train  is  sent 
out  on  a  back  switch  like  the  letter  V,  then 
another  V  sends  us  up  again  till  we  can  look 
straight  down  on  the  three  tracks,  the  highest 
300  feet  above  the  lower.  The  four  miles  ad- 
vances us  only  one.  We  are  "  up  in  the  world  " 
8,300  feet,  two  thousand  feet  and  more  above 

74 


CENTRAL  CITY. 

Mount  Washington.  The  air  up  here  does 
not  seem  to  satisfy.  One  can  get  tired  easily. 
However,  when  acclimated  it  is  just  as  fit  for 
hard  work  foundation.  Up  this  "  scarey " 
climb  we  were  pushed.  Sir  Knight  Orahood 
shows  us  his  mountain  home.  Senator  Hill 
and  Secretary  Teller  also  have  homes  here. 
We  cross  an  iron  bridge  far  above  the  houses ; 
a  lofty  trestle  lifts  itself  right  over  an  exten- 
sively worked  mine.  The  mountain  sides  liter- 
ally honeycombed  with  mines  and  the  railroad 
climbing  recklessly,  combine  to  produce  a  rare 
scene.  "  It's  the  greatest  thing  I  ever  thought 
of,"  says  one  Sir  Knight. 

We  find  carriages  in  waiting  which  Sir 
Knight  Orahood  has  provided  by  telegraphing. 
At  the  Teller  house  we  are  introduced  to  Sir 
John  Best  and  Sir  E.  S.  Clinton.  A  capital 
dinner  is  provided,  and  we  visit  the  banks  to 
look  at  gold.  One  piece  worth  $2,700  is  in 
sight.  Some  purchase  specimens,  and  all  are 
kindly  shown  the  yellow  treasures.  We  are 

75 


TOUR  OF  THE  ST.  ELMO'S. 

taken  to  the  oldest  mine,  "  The  Bobtail,"  so 
called  because  its  original  productions  wrapped 
in  a  bullock's  hide  were  drawn  to  the  smelting 
works  by  a  bobtailed  ox.  We  walk  to  the  ex- 
treme end  with  Sir  Knight  Best,  half  a  mile  in- 
to the  bowels  of  the  earth  and  1,200  feet  under 
the  surface.  Rich  specimens  are  gathered,  and 
on  our  return  Sir  Knight  Clinton  takes  us 
through  a  stamp  mill  running  one  hundred 
stamps.  Then  we  are  conducted  to  his  own 
mill  which  he  orders  stopped  and  his  workmen 
clear  off  the  sand,  remove  the  copper  sheets 
covered  with  quicksilver  and  show  us  how  the 
amalgam  is  collected,  and  how  it  is  retorted  till 
the  gold  is  obtained  ready  for  market. 

Good-byes  are  said  at  last.  Our  walk  having 
taken  us  down  to  the  upper  mouth  of  the 
canon,  we  take  the  observation  car  again  and 
into  the  narrow,  tortuous  cleft  madly  plunges 
the  train,  with  a  sense  of  absolute  security  on 
our  part.  In  the  fine  drizzling  rain  the  rugged 
walls  reach  above  the  clouds.  The  river  by  our 

76 


THE  "CLOUD-BURST." 

side  is  a  series  of  tumbling  rapids.  Down  the 
steep  incline  we  glide,  wheeling  and  twining  at 
break-neck  speed.  This  is  the  rainy  season  of 
Colorado,  and  an  exciting  episode  is  a  cloud- 
burst in  the  mountain  range  at  our  right.  A 
side  canon,  which  was  dry  on  our  upward  trip 
sent  down  great  volumes  of  black  angry  floods 
just  as  we  reached  the  place.  The  track  was 
flooded  instantly  and  the  debis  floating  every- 
where on  the  swift  waters,  called  a  halt.  Men 
went  ahead  feeling  the  track.  We  slowly 
passed,  the  road  bed  showing  by  its  dropping 
in  places  that  a  wash-out  would  necessitate  re- 
pairs, and  the  track  was  swept  away  just  after 
we  passed.  Safely  over,  we  turn  back  to  note 
how  the  clear  creek  is  dammed  up  and  set  back 
by  the  impetuous  rush  across  it. 

What  a  sight !  The  torrents  plunge  amid 
the  rocks,  throwing  the  dashing  spray  afar. 
How  the  waters  pile  up  and  leap  down  the 
wild  gorge  !  We  rush  along  in  a  mad,  wild 
race  and  the  engine  seems  to  enjoy  the  sport. 

77 


TOUR  OF  THE  ST.  ELMOS. 

We  threaten  to  dash  with  the  cataract  against 
some  beetling  cliff  and  with  the  angry  waters 
we  swiftly  turn  to  meet  some  new  obstruction. 
All  is  indescribably  grand.  We  "took  that  in" 
just  in  time.  Finally  the  lofty  battlements  re- 
cede. High,  sloping  cloud-capped  mountains 
environ  us ;  then,  underneath  perpendicular 
walls  and  overhanging  crags  accompanied  every- 
where by  the  wild  torrent,  we  curve  along  un- 
til at  last  the  rounded  mountains  dwarf  to  hills 
on  either  side,  and  so  we  bid  adieu  to  Clear 
Creek  Canon. 

Frotn  Itinerary. 

"The  city  of  Denver  lies  at  an  altitude  of 
5197  feet,  near  the  western  border  of  the  plains, 
within  12  miles  of  the  Rocky  Mountains,  the 
Colorado  or  Front  range  of  which  may  be  seen 
for  an  extent  of  over  200  miles.  The  view  of 
the  snowy  summits,  with  Pike's  Peak  in  the 
southern  part  of  the  range  and  Long's  Peak  in 
the  north,  is  indescribably  grand.  The  "  Queen 
City  of  the  Plains "  was  born  of  the  Pike's 
•  7s 


DENVER. 

Peak  gold  excitement  in  1858-9.  In  1860  it 
was  a  struggling  camp,  consisting  principally 
of  log  cabins  and  tents.  In  1870  it  had  a  pop- 
ulation of  4579  ;  in  1880  of  35,719  ;  and  within 
the  succeeding  year  over  600  buildings  were 
erected,  and  the  population  increased  to  over 
40,000.  Its  streets  are  regularly  and  hand- 
somely laid  out ;  its  public  and  business  edifices 
and  its  private  residences  are  elegant  and  sub- 
stantial ;  schools,  churches  and  newspapers 
abound,  and  in  short,  Denver  has  every  sign  of 
thrift,  enterprise,  wealth  and  progress.  The 
new  Union  Depot  is  one  of  the  finest  edifices 
for  railway  uses  in  America,  and  the  magnifi 
cent  new  opera  house,  which  cost  $600,000,  is 
another  structure  which  will  challenge  admira- 
tion. 

"  The  Garden  of  the  Gods  is  a  park-like  tract 
enclosed  by  hills,  and  rising  from  its  surface 
are  fantastic  rock-forms  carved  by  the  elements 
of  ages.  The  approach  is  through  a  great 
gateway,  the  massive  portals  of  red  sandstone 

79 


TOUR  OF  THE  ST.  ELMO'S. 

rising  to  a  height  of  380  feet.  The  view  of 
Pike's  Peak  as  seen  through  this  gigantic  frame 
is  very  picturesque.  Within,  the  rock-forms 
are  scattered  about  singly  and  in  groups,  rising 
above  the  astonished  visitor  like  grim  spectres." 


So 


SUNXISE  A  T  PIKE'S  PEAK. 


CHAPTER  VIII. 

HOTEL  ON  WHEELS,  August  i. 

After  forty  miles  of  an  exciting  ride,  much 
of  it  without  steam,  we  find  ourselves  "at 
home  "  again.  From  Denver  up  2,000  feet  to 
the  "Divide"  two  engines  are  required. 
From  thence  to  Colorado  Springs  is  down 
grade.  At  5  o'clock  we  are  placed  on  a  side 
track,  directly  at  the  foot  of  Pike's  Peak. 
The  sky  is  clear  and  the  sunset  worth  going  a 
hundred  miles  to  see.  To  realize  the  wondrous 
possibilities  of  sunset  one  should  witness  it 
here.  The  evening  is  devoted  to  a  grand  con- 
cert and  ball  in  honor  of  the  location.  This 
morning  is  also  fine,  and  the  sunrise  is  beyond 
conception  beautiful,  as  from  the  first  golden 
gleam  on  the  snowy  peak  the  gorgeous  change 
from  dawn  to  day  sweeps  down  the  mountain 
side. 

One  Sir  Knight  this  morning  hires  another 

81 


TOUR  OF  THE  ST.  ELMO'S. 

to  black  his  shoes.  After  blacking  one,  the 
implements  disappear  and  the  day's  fun  is 
started.  We  finish  a  capital  breakfast  in  time 
to  fill  the  carriages  for  a  delightful  drive  to 
Manitou  and  the  Garden  of  the  Gods.  Among 
the  Algonquins  any  object  of  religious  rever- 
ence or  dread  is  called  "  Manitou."  Gitche 
Manitou  (the  Great  Spirit)  is  the  Supreme 
Being.  The  soda  springs  and  iron  springs 
were  well  known  to  the  Indians  for  their  rare 
medicinal  qualities.  No  wonder  they  named 
this  locality  Manitou.  It  is  a  region  of  rare 
wonder  and  full  of  interest.  A  neat  little  city 
now  clusters  about  the  Springs,  with  fine 
hotels,  a  large  bathing  establishment,  and  a 
very  pretty  depot.  The  bubbling,  sparkling 
soda  water  pours  up  a  large  volume  and  we 
find  it  palatable.  On  the  road  to  Ute  Pass  the 
iron  springs  are  fine. 

Ute  Pass  which  was  a  trail  to  Leadville  dur- 
ing and  after  the  building  of  that  city,  is  cut 
along  the  steep  face  of  an  awful  precipice  with 

82 


WILLIAMS'  CAftON. 

a  roaring  stream  at  the  foot.  This  place  gives 
one  a  specimen  of  rugged  grandeur.  Gog  and 
Magog  lift  up  their  heads  from  the  two  oppo- 
site sides.  The  narrow  road  with  its  sharp 
curves  and  short  bends  threatens  to  end  by  a 
sudden  plunge  down  to  the  whirling  waters. 
We  saw  the  beautiful  rainbows  which  gave  to 
the  falls  its  name  and  which  furnish  one  of  the 
attractions  of  the  wild  pass.  After  a  fine  din- 
ner at  the  Manitou  House  we  drive  through 
Williams'  canon,  a  fearful  spot.  The  gorge  is 
so  narrow  that  at  times  it  is  easy  to  touch  the 
sides  from  the  wagon  seat.  It  is  a  long 
crooked  canon  between  queer  lofty  walls.  You 
can  imagine  how  pleasant  it  is  when  I  tell 
you  that  right  here  where  our  horses  draw  us  be- 
tween imprisoning  rocks,  a  sudden  cloud-burst 
last  summer  sent  down  fifteen  feet  of  rushing 
water,  which  little  feat  took  only  one  minute. 
Our  party  climb  the  steep  side  by  a  sloping, 
zig-zag,  thread-like  path  until  a  dizzy  height  is 
reached;  then  up  a  steep  flight  of  134  stairs 

83 


TOUR  OF  THE  ST.  ELMO'S. 

to  the  entrarnce  of  the  celebrated  cave  of  the 
winds  where  guides  conduct  us  half  a  mile  into 
the  mountain.  The  cave  being  recently  dis- 
covered, its  beauties  are  substantially  intact. 
Here  are  rare  stalactite  formations  not  to  be 
found  elsewhere.  Coral,  alabaster,  and  the 
most  wonderful  cascade  and  fern-like  forma- 
tions abound.  In  this  comparatively  new  cave 
a  fine  room  was  named  by  one  of  the  proprie- 
tors who  accompained  us,  "  St.  Elmos'  Rest," 
by  which  name  it  will  be  known  hereafter. 
The  cave  is  dry  and  can  easily  be  explored. 
Descending  the  mountain,  we  rode  through 
the  wonderful  "Garden  of  the  Gods."  We 
failed  to  find  any  garden  but  the  gods  were  all 
in.  The  remarkable  features  of  this  wonder- 
ful spot  are  too  well  known  to  require  de- 
scription at  my  hand.  Weird  shapes,  wild 
forms,  fantastic  beyond  any  conception.  Here 
a  rock  as  large  as  a  house  balanced  on  a  mere 
point ;  there  a  sphynx,  a  buffalo,  a  lion  or  some 
other  strange  shape. 


LINES  AND  GAR  VE  Y. 

Glen  Eyrie,  further  up  the  valley,  is  the  resi- 
dence of  General  Palmer,  and  is  romantic  in  the 
extreme.  A  ride  about  his  extensive  grounds 
reveals  wonderful  and  impossible  rocks  sur- 
rounding the  residence,  in  the  heart  of  the 
grandest  scenery  imaginable.  We  drive  up  to 
the  table  lands  of  the  foot-hills,  and  on  a  plain 
high  above  the  surrounding  country  we  follow 
for  miles  an  old  Indian  race-course,  straight  as 
an  arrow  and  level  as  the  sea.  The  rare  won- 
ders, the  beauties,  the  glories  of  this  day 
transcend  all  powers  of  language  to  describe. 
Reaching  our  "  home  on  wheels,"  we  take  the 
train  for  Pueblo. 

While  at  the  Manitou  House  we  were  all 
surprised  by  the  familiar  face  of  Sir  Knight 
Captain  Patrick  Garvey.  We  also  meet  at 
Colorado  Springs  our  good  friend  and  com- 
panion Sir  Knight  H.  Wales  Lines  whom  we 
gladly  greet,  and  from  whom  we  receive  the 
latest  news  from  home.  To-night  we  sleep  en 
route.  Last  night  we  tarried  here,  and  while 


TOUR  OF  THE  ST.  ELMOS. 

the  Sir  Knights  locked  every  window  and  in 
cautious  tones  discussed  cow  boys  and  train 
robbers,  the  ladies  left  their  car  windows  open 
and  faced  the  situation  as  bold  as  lions.  Dur- 
ing our  trip  to  Pueblo,  Sir  Knight  Lines  brings 
into  our  car  his  friend  Sir  Knight  Rose,  of 
Rondout  Commandry,  of  Rondout,  N.  Y., 
at  present  residing  at  Rock  Island,  111. 

Our  porters  transform  the  saloon  into  a 
sleeper  and  we  came  to  a  halt  at  Pueblo  for 
the  night  and  a  sound  sleep.  In  the  early 
morning  of  the  2d  we  were  visited  by  Charles 
B.  Kirtland  and  wife,  who  are  living  here.  It 
seems  strange  to  meet  Meriden  faces  in  such  a 
region  as  this.  Sir  Knight  Stanton,  postmaster 
at  Pueblo,  goes  with  us  to-day.  We  are  pro- 
vided with  a  special  train,  narrow  gauge,  and 
are  off  for  the  Grand  Canon.  The  day  is 
bright  and  beautiful,  and  with  our  usual  good 
fortune,  recent  rains  constantly  preceding  us 
have  laid  all  the  dust.  We  approach  a  strange 
country.  The  rounded  foot-hills  are  very  high 

86 


THE  ARKANSAS. 

and  all  along  their  summits  are  lofty  forti- 
fications and  ruined  walls  with  strong  castles 
and  towers,  all  on  a  scale  of  unparalleled  mag- 
nificence. 

A  halt  of  a  few  minutes  and  we  see  on  the 
ground  fossil  shells  which  we  must  get  out  and 
sample  for  our  Scientific  association  at  home. 

We  pass  great  cattle  ranches  ;  are  whirled 
over  array os  where  only  yesterday  were  swollen 
streams ;  and  so  approach  the  narrow  walls 
ahead.  The  bottom  lands  are  absolutely  level. 
The  changing  forms  on  either  hand  are  grand 
and  present  views  of  varying  beauty,  each 
moment  new  and  picturesque.  Along  the 
banks  of  the  Arkansas  we  pass  through  fields 
of  wild  sunflowers  bright  with  their  golden 
crowns  ;  beautiful  groves  of  cottonwood, 
hemmed  in  by  lofty  perpendicular  walls  ;  long 
irrigated  fields  of  growing  corn,  or  wheat ; 
and  then  a  wild  tangle  of  reeds,  flags  and 
brilliant  flowers.  The  swift  waters  of  the 
river  would  afford  facilities  for  baths,  provided 

87 


TOUR  OF  THE  ST.  ELMO'S. 

one  could  find  a  place  in  which  to   wash   on 
coming  out. 

We  pass  a  long  train  of  ordinary  slatted 
cattle  cars  laden  with  silver  bullion  and 
precious  ores.  The  short,  sharp  screams  of  the 
little  locomotive  give  notice  to  the  road-men 
that  this  one  is  a  "Wild"  train.  A  lady  on 
the  look-out  speaks :  "  quick,  see,"  and  all 
hands  quickly  look.  An  engine  and  two  cars 
lie  in  a  pile  beside  the  track.  It  was  a  bad 
smash-up.  The  engine,  a  wreck,  lay  on  its 
side  and  over  it  the  cars  all  broken  up.  It 
seems  a  train  preceding  ours  ran  over  a  cow. 
If  the  animal  was  as  badly  damaged  as  the 
train,  there  was  not  even  "  a  hide  "  left.  We 
all  indulge  the  hope  that  cattle  will  "  clear  the 
track  "  in  future.  Bunches  of  sage-cactus  two 
feet  in  height  grow  all  along  the  track.  At 
last  the  valley  widens  with  distant  mountains 
and  their  rounded  foot-hills.  We  pass  pe- 
troleum wells — whether  anyone  has  really 
struck  oil  here,  I  am  unable  to  state. 

88 


CANON  CITY. 

Our  good  railroad  friend,  Mr.  Manning,  bade 
us  adieu  at  Pueblo.  We  are  all  under  great 
obligations  to  him.  He  has  been  of  great 
service  each  day.  We  thank  the  Atchison, 
Topeka  and  Santa  Fe  for  furnishing  such  a 
genial,  capable  companion.  Nor  is  this  all. 
Charles  T.  Parsons  succeeds  Mr.  Manning. 
He  is  a  general  passenger  agent  of  the  same 
road,  and  joins  our  party  to  help  us  on  our 
way.  At  Canon  City  we  notice  the  light 
colored  stone  buildings  and  prison  walls  of  the 
State  Penitentiary.  Gangs  of  convicts  are  out 
in  zebra  garb,  while  guards  with  loaded  rifles 
are  closely  watching.  These  striped  fellows 
seem  to  receive  marked  attention.  Here  are 
also  fine  soda  springs. 

Just  before  leaving,  some  of  the  Sir  Knights 
post  themselves  on  the  engine  and  three  take 
front  seats  on  the  cow-catcher,  a  position  af- 
fording the  finest  chance  for  sight-seeing  im- 
aginable, but  it  is  a  wild  ride,  as  I  can  testify. 
We  enter  the  steep  mountains  by  a  narrow 


TOUR  OF  THE  ST.  ELMO'S. 

valley  giving  exactly  room  for  the  railroad  and 
the  river.  Our  friend  Parsons  supplies  gog- 
gles to  protect  our  eyes  from  cinders  since  the 
observation  cars  here  are  without  a  top.  It 
seems  quite  a  masquerade  party.  On  our 
right  is  a  perpendicular  cliff  over  1,000  feet 
high,  and  on  the  left  grand  lofty  masses  "with 
verdure  clad."  We  pass  caverns,  lateral  canons 
and  cliffs,  2,000  feet  aloft  the  river,  and  the 
telegraph  which  stretches  from  crag  to  crag, 
keeping  us  company. 

At  one  point  three  mighty  canons  meet. 
We  sweep  by  a  sharp  curve  to  the  left  at  the 
foot  of  a  smooth  wall  of  1,500  feet.  Then 
come  such  lofty  piles  that  one  cannot  stop  gaz- 
ing up.  It  is  awfully  grand,  literally  thousands 
of  feet  right  over  our  heads  are  towering  pin- 
nacles and  ragged  rocks,  the  walls  over  half  a 
mile  in  height.  We  spin  around  lofty  spires 
where  lines  of  red  granite  and  gray  alternate, 
and  at  last,  right  over  the  river  we  are  all  held 
up  by  powerful  iron  rods  suspended  from  strong 

go 


THE  ROYAL  GORGE. 

braces  placed  against  the  opposite  walls  of  the 
awful  chasm.  To  the  right  of  this  bridge  is  a 
cleft  not  half  a  yard  in  width,  and  more  than  a 
thousand  feet  deep.  Our  ladies  are  in  ecstacies 
over  the  wild  grandeur  of  the  Royal  Gorge. 
This  work  is  a  triumph  of  engineering  skill. 
Men  were  let  down  this  yawning  gulf  to  the 
raging  waters  below  by  ropes,  1800  feet,  and 
the  cuts  were  made  by  such  means.  Every- 
thing in  the  canon  is  on  a  scale  of  immensity. 
Sir  Knight  Kelsey  says,  "  We  Americans  bet- 
ter call  Switzerland  the  Colorado  of  Europe." 
Having  seen  both,  as  has  also  Sir  Knight 
Strong,  they  pronounce  this  more  grand  and 
imposing.  Our  train  is  stopped  at  the  bridge 
and  we  alight  to  gaze.  Starting  again,  we 
pass  a  sweeping  semi-circle  in  the  mountain, 
the  brim  dripping  with  many  streams.  On  we 
whirl  until  at  last  we  emerge  into  the  open 
fields  at  Park  Dale.  The  scenic  beauties  of  the 
route  thus  far  have  proven  a  grand  succession 
of  marvels.  At  Park  Dale  we  stroll  about, 

9' 


TOUJZ  OF  THE  ST.  ELMO'S. 

watching  a  group  of  goats  far  up  the  Rocky 
Mountains,  or  picking  up  specimens  and  pre- 
paring for  a  return  down  through  the  wonder- 
ful Grand  Cailon  of  the  Arkansas. 

From  Itinerary. 

11  The  Royal  Gorge  begins  just  above  Canon 
City.  The  Arkansas  River,  here  a  rushing, 
turbulent  stream,  is  crowded  close  to  the  rail- 
way bed,  and  the  massive  walls  of  rock  grow 
higher  and  steeper.  Great  spire-like  masses 
lift  their  summits  half  a  mile  above  our  heads, 
and  seem  ready  to  topple  over  upon  us.  The 
roadway  follows  the  river  in  all  its  devious 
turnings,  and  in  one  place  the  space  is  so  nar- 
row that  a  hanging  bridge  had  to  be  thrown 
over  a  portion  of  the  stream.  The  scenery  at 
every  point  is  grandly  impressive.  From 
Canon  City  to  Park  Dale,  just  below  which  the 
Royal  Gorge  terminates,  the  distance  is  ten 
miles. 

"The  Raton  Mountains,  comprising  one  of 
the  lateral  spurs  of  the  "  Rockies,"  and  the  nat- 


THE  RA  TON  MOUNTAINS. 

ural  line  of  division  between  Colorado  and 
New  Mexico,  will  be  crossed  by  daylight. 
The  summit  of  the  Raton  Pass  is  7688  feet 
above  the  sea-level,  or  1654  feet  above  Trini- 
dad, Colorado,  a  town  of  considerable  import- 
ance, situated  just  north  of  the  range.  From 
the  slopes  of  the  Raton  Mountains  there  are 
some  fine  views  of  the  symmetrical  Spanish 
Peaks,  which  are  also  prominent  objects  in  the 
earlier  ride  across  Colorado,  and  of  the  lofty 
summits  of  the  Culebra  Range.  The  Spanish 
Peaks  are  two  graceful,  glittering  summits, 
which  lift  their  heads  far  into  the  region  of  per- 
petual snow,  one  being  13,620  and  the  other 
12,720  feet  high." 


TOUR  OF  THE  ST.  ELMO'S. 


CHAPTER   IX. 

HOTEL  ON  WHEELS,  Aug.  i. 
The  Sir  Knights  of  Pueblo  commandery 
provided  carriages  for  the  entire  party  and 
they  were  at  the  depot  at  2  p.  M.,  at  which 
time  the  rain  was  falling.  An  excellent  dinner 
followed  and  an  enjoyable  chat.  Sir  Knight 
H.  N.  Banks,  Eminent  Commander,  Sir  S.  H. 
Guarnsey,  Sir  C.  E.  Newcomer,  Sir  J.  B. 
Orman,  Sir  Irving  W.  Stanton,  and  Sir  J. 
Schmidlap  bade  us  adieu.  E.  Sir  I.  W. 
Stanton  and  wife  accompanied  us  through  the 
Grand  Canon.  Our  train  is  very  late  but  we 
learn  that  the  train  on  the  Atchison,  Topeka 
and  Santa  F£  at  La  Junta  will  be  held  until 
our  arrival.  Our  sleep  is  sound,  and  we  find 
by  the  stars  before  daybreak  that  we  are  push- 
ing for  New  Mexico.  All  along  the  route  are 
the  little  adobe  houses,  one  story  high  and 
flat-roofed. 

94 


RATON  PASS. 


The  last  six  miles  of  Colorado  is  up  the 
steepest  grades  possible  for  a  broad-gauge  rail- 
road, an  average  of  1 75  feet  to  the  mile  and 
in  some  places  287.  We  are  passing  over 
the  Raton  Range.  A  63-ton  engine  with 
eight  driving  wheels  heads  the  train  and  a  sim- 
ilar one  is  pushing,  for  our  cars  are  very  heavy 
and  extra.  The  brakemen  say  they  have  never 
seen  the  train  so  nearly  stopped.  It  is  almost 
impossible  to  go  on.  We  move  a  foot  or  two 
and  stop,  then  start  again  *with  the  greatest 
difficulty  at  the  worst  grades.  The  road  is 
crooked  and  the  views  superb.  At  last  we 
reach  Raton  tunnel,  a  fourth  of  a  mile  in 
length.  The  exit  is  into  New  Mexico.  A 
descent  of  500  feet  brings  us  to  vast  plains 
over  which  we  journey  for  scores  of  miles. 
The  cut  for  the  tunnel  is  partly  through  coal, 
which  we  notice  before  plunging  into  the 
darkness. 

At  Raton  a  stop  for  breakfast ;  "  let  us  out  " 
for  a  stroll.  The  Raton  bank  is  an  institution. 

95 


TOUR  OF  THE  ST.  ELMO'S. 

It  is  adobe,  about  15  by  50  feet  and  a  long,  low 
hut,  yet  we  are  told  it  does  a  large  business. 
We  find  a  store  300  feet  deep  with  $150,000 
stock  on  hand,  doing  a  business  of  $40,000  a 
month,  a  trade  center  for  an  immense  territory. 
We  pick  up  many  fine  specimens  of  petrified 
wood.  En  route  we  find  numberless  prairie 
dogs,  vast  herds  of  cattle  and  sheep,  and  the 
usual  adobe  huts.  An  eagle  perched  upon  a 
mound  soars  away  as  we  approach.  These 
immense  plains  are  about  7000  feet  above  sea- 
level.  Once  in  a  while  a  sand  mound  built  by 
a  whirlwind  is  seen  on  the  plain.  The  rolling 
prairie  without  a  shrub  in  sight  is  beautiful 
with  shadows  of  passing  clouds.  In  the  dis- 
tance the  mountains  show  the  level  strata  so 
familiar  now,  and  away  beyond,  dim,  blue  and 
hazy  are  seen  the  loftier  ranges.  We  invite 
into  our  cars  a  bridal  party  who  are  en  route 
for  Old  Mexico,  Mr.  George  H.  Anthony  and 
wife,  and  Miss  Lulu  Snoddy,  of  Kansas 
City. 

96 


WAGON  MOUND. 

We  reach  Wagon  Mound  only  to  find  that 
a  bad  wash-out  ahead  will  hold  us  here  awhile, 
and  while  waiting  for  developments  we  busy 
ourselves  in  the  little  town.  A  strange  circum- 
stance is  Sir  Knight  Kelsey's  experience  here. 
In  reading  over  a  letter  from  his  father  he 
learns  that  an  aunt  whom  he  has  never  seen  is 
at  Wagon  Mound.  Knowing  only  the  Chris- 
tian name  he  searches  till  he  finds  one  of  the 
nicest  old  ladies  you  ever  saw  who  cries  for 
joy  at  meeting  him. 

We  are  in  for  a  stay  here.  The  wash-out 
ahead  has  taken  three  bridges  and  over  a  mile 
of  road.  We  while  away  the  time,  saunter 
among  the  little  adobe  houses ;  some  pitch 
quoits,  some  enjoy  a  game  of  ball,  and  at 
evening  the  parties  on  the  train,  which  consists 
of  several  cars,  arrange  for  a  grand  ball.  An 
adobe  hall  is  hired,  the  orchestra  engaged  and 
public  notice  fills  the  little  building.  An  ex- 
mayor  and  the  present  mayor  of  Meriden, 
occupy  the  two  front  windows.  One  cotillion 

97 


TOUR  OF  THE  ST.  ELMO'S. 

was  with  a  Mexican  prompter.  Hearty  peals 
of  laughter  followed  his  "  calls :"  "  Fellers 
foller  up ;"  "  Cheat  an'  swing ;"  "All  run 
away;"  "  Everybody  dance ;"  "Four  to  this 
corner,"  etc.  It  was  quite  a  lingo.  A  waltz 
with  Mexican  couples  strangely  mixed  among 
nice  people  from  the  train  was  amusing. 
After  a  Mexican  quadrille,  which  was  pretty 
well  worth  seeing,  we  returned  to  our  "  home  " 
and  indulged  in  deep  sleep.  The  4th  dawned 
clear,  cool,  and  beautiful  as  an  October  morn- 
ing. Yesterday  a  terrible  shower  came  in  time 
to  give  us  a  variety  ;  so  we  expect,  in  spite 
of  the  fine  morning  that  this  afternoon  will 
give  us  a  drencher.  We  must  stay  here  all 
day  unless  we  can  devise  means  to  cross  the 
break  and  reach  Las  Vegas.  The  air  is  fine 
and  we  make  the  best  of  it.  We  have  moun- 
tain climbing,  horseback  and  mule-back  riding, 
wagon  riding  and  walking.  Sir  Knight  Mather 
and  Sir  Knight  Perkins  find  out  something 
about  "  bucking  mustangs."  Sir  Knights 

98 


THE  BURROS. 

John  Coe,  Eli  Birdsey  and  F.  Pratt  gallop  for 
miles  over  the  plain.  We  have  tested  the 
burros.  What  a  queer  animal !  People  say 
they  will  live  on  old  tomato  cans  and  show 
bills.  They  are  a  "narrow-gauge  mule,"  and 
can  do  more  work  and  make  a  worse  noise 
than  any  animal  that  walks  or  warbles. 

This  is  the  lazy  man's  paradise.  How  these 
lazy  people  can  ride  as  they  do  is  a  conun- 
drum. There  goes  a  native,  mounted  on  a 
treacherous  mustang  fairly  flying  over  the 
prairie,  lasso  in  hand,  his  broad  sombrero  with 
wide  leather  band  shading  .his  face  ;  his  broad 
belt  of  cartridges  and  pistol  case  with  suspi- 
cious black  butt  in  sight ;  the  long  leather 
fringe  of  his  leggings  fluttering  in  the  breeze. 
Yonder  a  herder,  crowned  with  a  gold-bord- 
ered sombrero,  its  band  like  a  serpent  of 
gold.  He  sails  like  a  bird  and  yet  a  stranger 
could  not  stay  in  the  saddle  ten  minutes.  We 
may  be  wasting  a  day  but  we  are  able  to  pass 
the  time  merrily,  and  this  vitalizing  air  is  a 

99 


TOUR  OF  THE  ST.  ELMO'S. 

luxury.  The  wash-out  which  detains  us  was  a 
cloud-burst  just  at  the  foot  hills,  flooding  the 
plains  for  miles  in  width  and  drowning  great 
numbers  of  cattle  and  sheep.  We  are  prom- 
ised a  start  at  8  P.  M. 

From  Itinerary. 

"  The  Las  Vegas  Hot  Springs  are  situated 
upon  the  banks  of  the  Rio  Gallinas,  which 
flows  through  a  romantic  canon  from  the 
Spanish  range  of  the  Rocky  Mountains  ;  they 
are  six  miles  from  the  main  line  of  the  Atchi- 
son,  Topeka  and  Santa  Fe  railroad.  The 
Montezuma  is  a  fine  hotel,  designed  by  a 
Boston  architect,  and  is  owned,  like  the 
Springs,  by  the  railroad  company. 

Soon  after  leaving  Las  Vegas,  Starvation 
Mountain,  an  isolated,  rocky  eminence,  having 
a  cross  upon  its  summit,  comes  into  view. 
This  mountain  continues  for  some  time  a 
prominent  object.  While  passing  through 
the  valley  of  the  Rio  Pecos,  nearly  fifty  miles 
southwest  of  Las  Vegas,  the  ruins  of  the  old 


PRE-HISTORIC  RUINS. 

Pecos  church,  built  by  the  Spaniards  soon 
after  1529,  are  seen.  Near  these  ruins  are  the 
remains  of  a  pre-historic  city,  claimed  to  have 
been  the  once  populous  Cicuye,  one  of  the 
mysterious  "  Seven  Cities  of  Cibola."  The 
Glorietta  Pass  is  crossed  at  an  elevation  of 
7537  feet.  Here  and  in  the  Apache  Caiion, 
just  beyond,  a  sharp  fight  took  place  in  the 
war  of  the  rebellion  between  the  United  States 
forces  and  a  band  of  Texans. 

Santa  Fe  (18  miles  from  the  main  line  of 
the  Atchison,  Topeka  and  Santa  Fe*  railroad), 
is  the  territorial  capital,  and  the  most  ancient 
city  within  the  domain  of  the  United  States. 
It  is  believed  that  a  city  of  the  Aztecs  existed 
here  previous  to  the  arrival  of  the  Spaniards. 
It  is  a  quaint  place,  with  Spanish-Mexican 
characteristics.  All  the  old  buildings  are  con- 
structed of  adobe,  and  in  the  Mexican  style. 
In  1846  the  "Adobe  Palace"  was  said  to  be 
the  only  building  in  New  Mexico  containing 
window  glass.  It  forms  one  side  of  the  Plaza, 


TOUR  OF  THE  ST.  ELMO'S. 

in  the  center  of  which  is  a  monument  erected 
to  the  memory  of  the  citizens  and  soldiers  who 
fell  in  the  late  war.  Among  the  buildings  of 
interest  beside  the  "Adobe  Palace"  are  the 
old  Church  of  San  Miguel,  which  has  a  re- 
corded history  as  far  back  as  1580,  the  Church 
of  St.  Guadalupe,  the  Cathedral,  St.  Michael's 
College  for  Boys;  the  Academy  of  Our  Lady 
of  Light,  the  Chapel  of  the  Sisters  of  Loretto, 
the  new  Charity  Hospital,  and  an  ancient 
adobe  structure  near  the  Church  of  San  Miguel 
said  to  be  the  oldest  house  in  Santa  Fe.  The 
gardens  of  Bishop  Lamy  contain  many  rare 
trees  and  plants.  The  street  and  market 
scenes  of  Santa  Fe  are  especially  interesting, 
as  the  groups  are  largely  composed  of  Indians 
and  Mexicans. 

Retracing  our  way  from  Santa  Fe  to  Lamy 
Junction,  we  continue  our  journey  over  the 
main  railway  line.  The  Rio  Grande  is  reached 
at  Wallace,  and  for  over  200  miles  the  route 
follows  this  river.  Near  Wallace  is  the  Indian 


W 'ALL  ACE. 

pueblo  of  San  Domingo,  and  a  little  further 
on  is  the  pueblo  of  San  Felipe,  both  being 
visible  from  the  cars.  The  San  Domingo 
Indians  assemble  at  Wallace  in  considerable 
numbers  to  sell  turquois  and  pottery  to 
travelers." 


103 


TOUR  OF  THE  ST.  ELMO'S. 


CHAPTER  X. 

HOTEL  ON  WHEELS,  August  6. 
When  at  last  after  thirty-six  hours'  detention, 
we  left  Wagon  Mound  for  the  Las  Vegas  hot 
springs,  the  rain  had  poured  in  torrents  for 
some  hours.  The  plain  was  an  inland  sea ; 
the  daylight  was  fading  and  the  track  ahead 
was  new ;  so  we  found  it  an  exciting  ride. 
Passing  it  in  safety  we  reached  "  The  Monte- 
zuma,"  at  Las  Vegas  hot  springs,  about  mid- 
night. The  menu  is  gotten  up  for  the  occa- 
sion in  elegant  style  as  a  Knight  Templar 
souvenir.  The  Montezuma  is  an  immense 
establishment  for  this  section,  and  is  owned  by 
the  Atchison,  Topeka  and  Santa  Fe*.  The 
hot  springs  are  a  curiosity.  The  baths  are 
enjoyed,  and  at  an  early  hour  our  train  started 
for  "  Vegas"  and  Santa  Fe.  Las  Vegas  (the 
meadows),  with  a  population  of  8500,  is  half 
United  States  and  half  Mexican.  One  passes 

J04 


LAS  VEGAS.  4 

the  queerest  little  adobe  huts  with  lazy  Mex- 
icans loafing  outside,  two  or  three  women  in 
the  door  and  children  all  about. 

In  the  city  are  fine  American  houses  and 
Mexican  huts  intermingled.  We  pass  a  pretty 
adobe  house  with  shingled  roof  projecting  to 
form  a  veranda,  with  a  pig-pen  attached  as  a 
part  of  the  edifice.  There  are  a  number  of 
churches  here,  and  several  banks.  The  city 
has  a  street  railway,  telephone  exchange,  and 
all  the  appliances  of  modern  living,  yet  it  is  in 
the  midst  of  the  strange,  sleepy  Mexican 
ranch-life.  The  altitude  is  about  6500  feet, 
and  the  climate  is  delightful.  We  struck  it 
at  the  rain  period.  This  morning  the  con- 
ductor called  us  to  look  at  a  rare  phenomenon 
in  the  northern  sky.  Light  clouds  are  floating 
about,  and  high  up  towards  the  zenith  is  an 
inverted  rainbow,  brilliant  and  beautiful,  curved 
lowest  in  the  middle,  the  colors  being  opposite 
to  their  arrangement  in  the  ordinary  bow. 
We  gaze  on  it  for  a  half-hour.  There  is  no 


,  TOUR  OF  THE  ST.  ELMO'S. 

rain  and  the  day  is  fine.  We  do  not  desire 
to  travel  on  Sunday,  hut  the  long  delay^at  the 
wash-out  renders  it  necessary. 

We  expected  to  rest  at  Santa  Fe  this  day, 
and  were  compelled  to  ride  to  reach  it.  About 
eight  miles  out  our  porter  says  to  Sir  Knight 
Garvey,  "  The  train  is  going  too  fast  for  these 
curves  ;  I  am  going  to  get  ready  for  trouble." 
He  placed  himself  on  the  platform,  and  in  a 
minute  bounds  off.  The  train  was  drawn  by 
two  large  engines.  We  come  to  a  stop  which 
breaks  a  few  dishes  in  our  pantry.  Some  of  the 
party  see  the  engine  and  cars  leave  the  track. 
All  are  out  in  a  breath.  The  leading  engine 
stands  on  the  track  except  one  truck  ;  the  sec- 
ond is  a  total  wreck,  the  boiler  sending  up  great 
clouds  of  steam.  The  engineer  and  fireman 
are  thrown  nearly  twenty  feet,  but  not  seriously 
injured.  The  baggage  car  is  thrown  its  length 
to  one  side,  the  mail-and-express  beside  it  lies 
with  the  floor  in  the  air  ;  the  next  are  badly 
handled,  only  the  Pullman  and  our  own  cars 

106 


THE  RAIN. 

being  unharmed.  The  automatic  brakes  save 
these.  A  flagman  runs  to  the  rear,  soon  an  en- 
gine comes  puffing  up,  and  we  are  slowly 
hauled  back  to  Las  Vegas. 

Hardly  are  we  located  when  the  pounding, 
pouring  floods  come  down  with  terrific  force. 
In  no  time  there  is  a  broad  expanse  of  dirty 
water  pouring  along  beside  our  train,  covering 
the  tracks  and  suggesting  wash-outs.  It  is  the 
water-spout  or  cloud-burst ;  when  these  occur  it 
is^not  strange  to  miss  from  one  to  five  miles  of 
railroad.  The  soil  is  of  a  peculiar  quality. 
Mingled  with  straw  and  dried  in  the  sun,  it  be- 
comes "  adobe  "  and  is  material  for  dwellings. 
Without  the  straw  the  water  will  cut  great 
gulleys  and  construct  a  miniature  canon  in 
short  order.  We  thank  kind  Providence 
that  we  are  all  safe  and  quietly  await  the  re- 
pairs which  are  in  progress,  in  spite  of  rain. 

Through  the  kindness  of  Mr.  Parsons  we 
are  invited  to  dine  at  the  eating  house  of  the 
Atchison,  Topeka  and  Santa  Fd  It  is  the 

107 


TOUR  OF  THE  ST.  ELMO'S. 

best  dinner  we  have  had  outside  our  cars. 
Walking  out,  after  admiring  a  beautiful  rain- 
bow we  stroll  along  the  platform  and  all  ex- 
press astonishment  and  admiration  in  viewing 
the  most  remarkable  sunset  any  of  our  num- 
ber ever  witnessed.  Such  a  sunset  is  worth  a 
journey  to  New  Mexico.  It  is  indescribably 
grand.  Such  groupings  !  Such  a  sky  !  The 
blue  is  so  transparent,  so  unlike  a  New  Eng- 
land sky.  Black,  threatening  clouds  roll  in 
the  west,  edged  with  golden  yellow ;  a  vast 
ocean  of  tossing  billows  is  in  the  south,  just 
beyond  a  still,  silvery  lake;  blue,  tumbling 
clouds  are  mingling  with  every  shade  of 
brown,  red  and  golden,  and  yonder  a  group 
all  aflame.  Through  all  and  everywhere  are 
patches  of  beautiful  clear  blue,  and  glimpses 
of  snowy  white.  We  speak  of  the  gates  of 
pearl,  and  returning  "home,"  .sing  together 
for  hours,  sweet  songs  of  the  "better  land." 
We  retire  late,  and  at  midnight  away  we  go 
towards  Lamy,  regretting  that  the  beautiful 

108 


S A  N'T  A  F. 

pass  over  the  Glorietta  mountains  is  not  to  be 
made  by  day. 

A  special  is  awaiting  us  and  without  any 
delay  we  pursue  our  course  toward  Santa  Fe. 
We  arrive  in  the  morning  and  take  coaches 
for  the  Palace  hotel.  A  day  at  Santa  Fe*  is  a 
day  of  rare  interest  and  pleasure.  I  wish  all 
your  many  readers  could  see  this  most  won- 
derful city.  We  visit  the  Tertia  Millennial 
Exposition  and  points  of  interest  too  numer- 
ous to  mention.  Santa  Fe*  is  the  oldest  town 
on  the  continent.  We  see  the  ruins  of  the 
oldest  house,  visit  the  oldest  church,  San 
Miguel,  and  gaze  on  the  oldest  palace.  Here 
we  are  in  a  town  occupied  by  the  Aztecs  in 
1325,  and  how  old  it  was  then,  not  even  tradi- 
tion can  tell.  Its  narrow,  winding  streets  are 
the  same  as  in  the  olden  time ;  its  broad  plaza 
and  many  of  its  localities  are  Spanish,  and 
its  broad  streets  with  handsome  business  fronts 
together  with  some  of  its  modern  buildings 
are  United  States.  Here  is  "  Lo,  the  poor 

I09 


TOUR  OF  THE  ST.  ELMO'S. 

Indian "  in  all  the  glory  of  gaudy  blanket  ; 
here  the  lazy  Mexican  and  the  restless  Yankee. 
A  train  of  a  dozen  diminutive  burros,  each 
laden  with  a  wood-pile  strangely  fastened 
above  and  around  the  body,  leisurely  followed 
by  a  trio  of  swarthy  Mexicans,  makes  way  for 
a  modern  omnibus  suggestive  of  Broadway. 

The  palace  of  the  governor,  one  story  high 
with  its  front  porch,  occupies  the  entire  length 
of  one  side  of  the  public  square.  It  had  been 
the  palace  of  the  Pueblos  before  the  holy 
name  of  Santa  Fe*  had  been  given  in  baptismal 
blood  by  the  "  Spanish  conquerors,"  the  palace 
of  the  Mexicans  freed  from  Spanish  rule ;  the 
palace  of  General  Lew  Wallace,  where  he 
wrote  "The  Fair  God"  and  "  Ben-Hur,"  and 
now  the  palace  of  Governor  Sheldon,  who 
receives  the  Knights  of  St.  Elmo.  Here 
have  met  all  the  departmental  and  legislative 
bodies  ever  assembled  in  the  capital  of  New 
Mexico.  The  terrible  bloody  scenes  enacted 
within  its  low  walls  would  fill  a  volume.  Yet 


THE  PALACE. 

it  is  unchanged,  and  along  its  front,  water  and 
gas  pipes  are  laid,  and  the  telegraph  and  tele- 
phone wires  connect  the  strange  edifice  with 
the  great  world. 

At  the  Palace  Hotel  we  are  met  by  Sir 
Knight  Max  Frost,  Eminent  Commander,  of 
whom  I  wrote  you,  when  we  met  him  at 
Kansas  City.  With  him  were  several  Sir 
Knights.  Ex-Governor  W.  G.  Rich  received 
us1  in  his  parlors  with  his  family.  Governor 
Shepard  and  General  McKensie  were  also  intro- 
duced to  our  party.  The  Sir  Knights  gave  us 
their  time  and  visited  the  points  of  interest 
with  us.  The  climate  is  delightful,  its  eleva- 
tion of  7044  feet  counter-balancing  its  southern 
latitude.  Those  who  have  seen  the  Mexican 
sections  of  Santa  F£,  have  seen  the  towns  of 
old  Mexico  duplicated.  We  leave  its  mud 
walls,  its  sleep-inducing  atmosphere,  and  its 
queer  admixture  of  the  old  and  the  new,  with 
regret.  Sir  Knight  Mather  finds  here  one  of 
his  Meriden  pupils,  a  Master  Sweeney,  and  Sir 


TOUR  OF  THE  ST.  ELMO'S. 

Knight  Lines  meets  an  old  acquaintance,  who 
worked  in  Meriden  in  1863.  En  route  in  the 
midst  of  fine  scenery,  Lon  Jeffrey  spreads  the 
festive  board  and  we  are  in  for  a  ride  of  316 
miles  to  Deming. 

We  soon  see  the  dusky  denizens  of  dug-outs, 
and  at  Wallace  the  genuine  aborigines  swarm 
about  the  train,  offering  bits  of  topaz,  turquois 
and  small  pieces  of  pottery.  It  is  a  queer 
sight.  One  young  squaw,  gotten  up  regard- 
less of  expense,  her  entire  face  a  bright  ver- 
milion, her  fingers  stiff  with  broad  silver  rings 
and  ornaments  innumerable  about  her  bare 
neck,  is  no  doubt  the  belle  of  the  tribe  and  is 
the  only  one  who  does  not  offer  something  for 
sale.  Haughty  and  stoical,  she  watches  her 
clamorous  comrades  till  the  train  moves  on, 
then  joins  with  the  rest  in  figuring  up  the 
profits.  We  learn  she  is  the  daughter  of  the 
chief.  A  mile  below  a  fenced  Indian  village  is 
a  center  of  passing  interest.  The  swift-flowing 
stream  on  our  right  reflecting  the  rays  of  the 


THE  RIO  GRANDE. 

setting  sun  is  the  Rio  Grande ;  the  village 
is  San  Fillpe — an  Indian  pueblo.  We  see  the 
ladders  by  which  the  natives  ascend  to  the  top 
of  the  house  and  the  holes  by  which  they  de- 
scend. Why  they  climb  up  to  get  in  is  a  co- 
nundrum. These  Indians  are  law-abiding  and 
industrious,  herding  great  numbers  of  horses. 
We  see  one  herder  with  an  immense  number 
of  burros. 

The  mountains  in  the  west  are  the  Jemez 
range,  (pronounced  Ha-mas.)  Algodomas  on 
our  left  is  a  Mexican  village  and  was  at  one 
time  a  hot  bed  of  cattle  and  horse  thieves.  It  is 
interesting  to  watch  the  straight,  tall  Mexican 
woman  poising  a  water-pot  on  her  head. 
Another  Indian  village  brings  us  to  Vernelio, 
an  old  settlement  of  Mexicans,  many  of  whom 
are  very  wealthy,  one  being  owner  of  more 
than  a  million  sheep.  We  reach  the  vineyards 
where  the  soil  is  so  strong  that  it  is  the  custom 
to  cut  the  vine  back  to  a  half-yard  in  length 
annually.  Albuquerque  is  reached  at  night, 


TOUR  OF  THE  ST.  ELMO'S. 

and  its  gas-lighted  busy  streets  extort  cheers. 
We  are  in  a  genuine  New  England  city  to  all 
appearance,  yet  it  is  eminently  Western,  being 
but  three  years  old  and  numbering  over  7,000 
souls. 

From  Itinerary. 

"  Early  in  the  forenoon  the  line  between 
the  territories  of  New  Mexico  and  Arizona  is 
passed.  The  Mexican  border  is  a'  little  more 
than  a  score  of  miles  south.  The  Rocky 
Mountain  range,  known  in  Mexico  as  the 
Sierra  Madre,  is  here  quite  low,  and  the  high- 
est railroad  point  is  considerably  less  than  5,000 
feet.  The  scenery  is  for  the  most  part  wild, 
and  the  most  striking  feature  in  the  vegetation 
is  the  tree  cactus,  which  in  many  places  grows 
to  a  remarkable  size.  A  large  part  of  Arizona 
is  an  arid  waste,  but  where  irrigation  can  be 
had  the  soil  is  very  productive.  Many  of  the 
famous  mining  regions  are  near  our  route." 


114 


DEMING. 


CHAPTER  XL 

HOTEL  ON  WHEELS,  August  7. 
The  early  morning  brings  us  a  beautiful 
rainbow  in  the  west.  The  east  is  aflame  with 
golden  glory.  Steadily  we  move  over  the 
mountain-bordered  plain.  We  reach  Deming 
at  7:45  and  leave  at  7,  although  we  remain 
here  more  than  an  hour.  Our  arrival  is  on 
Jefferson  City  time,  and  our  departure  on  San 
Francisco  time,  being  a  change  of  two  hours. 
We  have  traversed  all  night  the  former  haunts 
of  the  buffalo  and  the  hunting  grounds  of  the 
Indians.  Only  a  few  weeks  since  the  latter 
were  hunting  for  horses  and  cattle  to  steal, 
just  here.  On  this  plain,  level  as  the  sea,  the 
Yucca  lily  attains  a  height  of  ten  or  twelve 
feet,  and  cactus  of  various  kinds  bloom  amid 
the  short  buffalo-grass  and  sage  brush,  while 
there  are  occasional  broad  reaches  of  sand 
entirely  destitute  of  vegetation. 


TOUR  OF  THE  ST.  ELMO'S. 

The  monotony  is  relieved  by  hundreds  of 
acres  of  water  glistening  in  the  sun  ;  lovely 
afar  where  it  reflects  so  beautifully  the  moun- 
tains beside  it ;  here,  under  the  moving  train, 
leaving  its  alkali  deposit  where  the  sun  has 
partially  evaporated  it.  Just  as  we  are  cross- 
ing the  line  into  Arizona  an  immense  eagle 
floats  along  quite  near  the  cars.  How  easily 
he  keeps  by  our  side  ;  now  lazily  flapping  his 
great  wings,  and  now  sailing  without  effort. 
Keenly  he  scans  the  scant  herbage,  anxious  in 
behalf  of  prairie  chickens.  There  may  be 
desolateness  in  these  great  plains,  but  to  my 
eyes  the  mountains  afford  one  continued  pan- 
orama of  beauty.  Between  them  we  have 
swiftly  moved  all  day.  Now  in  the  dim  dis- 
tance ;  now  more  near,  ever  changing  in  con- 
tour and  color,  piled  skyward  on  either  hand ; 
now  kissed  by  the  clear  shining  sun  and  now 
gloomy  and  dark  under  the  frown  of  a  passing 
cloud ;  now  with  ragged  outline,  sharp  cut 
against  the  clear  sky,  and  now  range  after 

116 


MOUNTAINS  AND  LAKES. 

range,  losing  the  loftiest  peaks  in  the  cluster- 
ing clouds. 

Again  we  pass  miles  upon  miles  of  water, 
smooth  as  a  mirror,  reflecting  every  moving 
cloud  and  mountain  peak.  Although  unruffled 
and  calm,  yet  through  the  transparent  air  we 
can  see  a  raging  storm  in  the  mountains  sixty 
miles  away.  There  is  something  remarkable 
in  the  strong  definition  of  light  and  shade  on 
the  distant  ranges.  The  shifting  patches  seem 
almost  like  splashes  of  ink  on  the  picture,  and 
the  effects  are  strange.  Should  any  painter 
imitate  the  reality,  his  work  would  be  ridiculed. 
We  pass  great  herds  of  cattle,  their  condition 
betokening  nutritious  pasturage,  and  yet  the 
alkali  affects  the  skin,  although  we  have  no 
dust  to  trouble  us.  Yonder,  to  the  left,  a 
cluster  of  miners'  huts  indicates  the  location 
of  the  "  Golden  Rule,"  a  very  promising  gold 
mine.  Many  of  the  houses  in  this  section 
have  an  extra  roof  about  one  foot  above  the 
regular  one,  extending  away  beyond  the  house 

7/7 


TOUR  OF  THE  ST.  ELMO'S. 

on  every  side.  The  heat  induces  a  constant 
circulation,  and  all  sides  of  the  house  are 
shaded.  An  earthen  vessel  of  porous  material, 
hung  in  its  shadow,  filled  with  water,  is  the 
universal  "  cooler." 

We  are  not  yet  out  of  the  reach  of  wash-outs, 
and  the  small  one  that  detains  us  here  only  a 
very  short  time,  is  at  the  head  of  a  system  of 
canons  which  cut  the  entire  valley  in  all  direc- 
tions. The  grade  is  steep,  and  we  get  down 
fast.  The  conductor  brings  us  a  telegram 
from  Mr.  T.  H.  Goodman,  general  manager, 
which  covers  a  resume  of  all  the  news  of  the 
morning.  We  wire  him  our  thanks,  and  while 
discussing  the  news,  reach  Benson,  twelve 
miles  from  the  well-known  Tombstone  mine. 
Smelting  works  are  in  full  blast. 

Thirty  people  were  killed  by  the  Apaches 
last  spring  within  four  miles  of  this  place.  To 
the  south,  four  different  showers  are  in  sight 
at  once,  the  lightning  flashing  vividly.  At  a 
little  station  a  plump  squaw  is  bound  to  sell 


TREE  CACTUS. 

her  dog,  but  the  dog-market  is  not  brisk 
enough  to  warrant  the  speculation.  The 
Indian  fences  in  this  neighborhood  are  novel 
in  their  mode  of  construction,  with  crooked 
posts  quite  near  each  other,  and  small  twigs 
woven  closely.  The  vegetation  is  beautifully 
green.  There  are  fine  willow  trees  among 
others,  and  specimens  of  tree-cactus  fifty  feet 
high.  Sand  bags  are  laid  in  piles  beside  the 
stream  to  keep  the  water  from  flooding  the 
land.  At  one  point  the  road  bed  seems  to  be 
cut  through  copper  ore.  All  rush  to  the  win- 
dows to  view  a  splendid  cactus  grove  ;  hun- 
dreds are  in  sight ;  some  thicker  than  a  man's 
body  and  twenty  feet  in  height ;  there  are  also 
prickly  pear  cactus  six  feet  high.  Now  we 
come  to  miles  upon  miles  of  cactus  twisted, 
gnarled  and  brown,  yet  bearing  delicate  flowers, 
which  we  name  Cactus  Park.  The  distant 
mountains  on  the  left  are  inky  blue,  and  on 
the  right  every  projection  is  light  gleaming 
brown,  with  dark  shadows  thrown  by  the  level 

ug 


TOUR  OF  THE  ST.  ELMOS. 

beams  of  the  sun.  The  call  to  supper  meets  a 
ready  response,  sight-seeing  being  a  good 
apetizer.  Train  stops  at  Tucson  (pronounced 
Too-son),  la  city  of  ten  thousand  inhabitants, 
and  one  of  the  three  which  claim  greatest  age, 
the  others  being  Santa  Fe  and  Fernandina. 
It  seems  that  Sir  Knights  Lines  and  Garvey, 
on  their  way  out,  met  at  Kansas  City  the 
Mayor  of  Tucson  and  enjoyed  his  companion- 
ship a  full  day.  We  find  on  our  arrival  that 
this  ancient  city  has  excelled  all  by  the  hearti- 
ness of  their  greeting.  During  the  day  a 
meeting  of  the  common  council  was  called 
and  a  resolution  adopted,  conferring  the  hos- 
pitalities and  the  freedom  of  the  city  on 
the  St.  Elmo  party.  We  are  met  by  His 
Honor,  the  Mayor,  and  the  entire  common 
council,  together  with  several  county  and  ter- 
ritorial officials,  and  are  urged  to  remain  for  as 
long  a  time  as  possible.  Much  as  we  desire  to 
do  so,  it  is  impossible.  This  circumstance  has 
been  anticipated.  We  are  accordingly  invited 


TUCSON. 

to  take  carriages  for  a  ride,  and  although  the 
passenger  train  to  which  our  cars  were  attached 
was  a  very  long  one,  the  Sir  Knights  of  Tucson 
insisted  on  holding  it  and  actually  held  it  while 
we  were  treated  to  an  hour's  ride.  It  is  a  very 
interesting  city,  containing  many  adobe  houses 
which  are  said  to  be  warm  in  winter  and  cool 
in  summer.  A  mud  house  certainly  has  a 
modest  exterior,  but  in  Tucson  many  of  them 
are  richly  furnished.  It  is  never  safe  to  judge 
by  appearances.  The  streets  are  broad  and 
clean  and  there  are  many  fine  buildings.  The 
retail  store  conducted  by  the  mayor,  Hon.  C. 
M.  Strauss,  proved  a  surprise.  Think  of  stores 
larger  and  better  stocked  than  our  own  city 
can  boast,  brilliant  with  electric  light,  doing  a 
business  of  $100,000  dollars  a  month,  away 
out  on  the  cactus  plains  of  Arizona !  The 
Sir  Knights  who  met  us  with  Hon.  C.  M. 
Strauss,  were  Sir  M.  P.  Freeman,  deputy  in- 
spector general ;  E.  Sir  A.  M.  Bragg,  E.  Com. 
Arizona  Commandery ;  Sir  S.  C.  Hughes,  Sir 

121 


TOUR  OF  THE  ST.  ELMO'S. 

Col.  A.  A.  Bean,  Sir  G.  C.  Roskrugh,  master 
of  Tucson  Lodge,  F.  and  A.  M.;  Sir  H.  D. 
Underwood;  Sir  J.  McC.  Elliott  and  a  score 
of  others.  With  heartfelt  thanks  for  generous 
treatment  we  bid  the  courteous  Sir  Knights 
adieu  and  retire.  The  night  is  warm  and 
somewhat  dusty. 

From  Itinerary. 

"  At  Yuma  the  Colorado  river  is  crossed  and 
the  traveler  finds  himself  in  California,  though 
not  in  the  pleasantest  part,  for  the  Colorado 
desert  must  first  be  traversed  before  the  invit- 
ing and  fruitful  Los  Angeles  county  is  reached. 
A  portion  of  the  desert  lies  263  feet  below  the 
level  of  the  sea.  In  the  vicinity  of  the  Colo- 
rado river  the  scenery  is  quite  picturesque,  a 
remarkable  group  of  mountains  known  as  the 
Castle  Dome  being  seen  in  the  north,  with  the 
Purple  mountains  further  west.  The  Colorado 
flows  between  these  two  ranges.  Emerging 
from  the  desert,  the  train  mounts  to  the  San 
Gorgonio  Pass,  2,560  feet  above  the  sea-level, 


SAN  GORGON  10  PASS. 

or  2,823  feet  above  the  bottom  of  the  desert. 
This  is  the  gateway  to  the  most  beautiful  part 
of  southern  California,  and  the  transition  from 
desolation  to  plenty,  from  a  barren  stretch  of 
sand  to  the  land  of  orange  groves  and  vine- 
yards, is  very  striking.  The  San  Jacinto  Range 
is  near  at  hand  upon  our  left,  while  the  San 
Bernardino  Range  fringes  the  northern  hori- 
zon. We  have  meanwhile  traversed  portions 
of  the  second  and  third  largest  counties  in  the 
United  States — San  Diego  and  San  Bernardino 
—the  latter  being  three  times  the  size  of  the 
state  of  Massachusetts." 


123 


TOUR  OF  THE  ST.  ELMO'S. 


CHAPTER  XI  L 

HOTEL  ON  WHEELS,  Aug.  8. 
The  sun  is  rising  in  a  cloudless  sky  as  we 
approach  Yuma  on  the  Colorado  river.  A 
short  stop  gave  us  a  view  of  the  Apaches  in 
their  primitive  style,  a  style  which  to  say  the 
least,  would  be  considered  extraordinary  in  any 
cold  climate.  We  cross  the  Colorado  river  at 
an  altitude  of  140  feet  and  from  thence  a  de- 
scending grade  brings  us  down  to  a  point  in 
the  great  desert  263  feet  below  the  sea-level. 
The  way  is  through  desolation.  Black,  bare 
mountains  on  the  right ;  the  most  distant,  look- 
ing as  if  made  of  black  clay,  and  the  nearer,  of 
lighter  material ;  without  a  particle  of  vegeta- 
tion. On  our  left,  high  shifting  sand  hills. 
We  speed  along  across  barren  sands  where 
gangs  of  Chinamen  are  stationed  to  shovel  off 
the  track.  We  pass  the  Flowing  Well,  a 
spouting  spring  of  bitter  alkali  water. 

124 


THE  MIRAGE. 

Eminent  Sir  Knight  A.  M.  Bragg  accom- 
panies us  to-day,  having  left  Tucson  with  our 
party.  He  has  driven  six  horses  to  an  empty 
wagon  over  this  desert  when  thirteen  miles 
was  all  that  could  be  made  in  a  day  over  the 
soft  fine  sand.  By  the  side  of  the  track  we 
see  great  " chunks"  of  pumice  stone.  Away 
off  to  the  left  a  splendid  mirage  presents  a 
beautiful  lake  with  islands  and  trees  reflected 
in  the  smooth  waters — many  miles  of  lake 
which  some  of  the  ladies  and  Sir  Knights  are 
certain  of,  yet  nothing  is  there  but  dry,  hot 
sand.  On  the  right  we  pass  an  extinct  volcano, 
which  is  now  a  broad  basin  in  the  desert,  a  few 
feet  in  depth,  with  mud  boiling  up  a  half  yard  in 
height,  over  the  whole  of  its  extent.  Well,  well ! 
There  goes  a  Burro,  a  pack  on  his  back  and  be- 
hind him  a  Mexican  plodding  along,  both  pull- 
ing their  feet  out  of  the  sand.  Where  can  they 
be  going,  out  here,  miles  from  anywhere  and  no 
possible  shade  within  reach  ?  There's  a  restless 
desire  manifested  everywhere  to  "move  on." 


TOUR  OF  THE  ST.  ELMO'S. 

The  temperature  in  the  ladies'  car  is  only 
114  in  the  shade,  owing  to  the  double  roof, 
while  in  the  other  we  manage  to  laugh  at  the 
weather  with  the  thermometer  at  1 20,  and  we 
have  dust  to-day.  We  delay  dinner  in  order 
to  enjoy  the  sea  breeze  that  sweeps  over  Gor- 
gonio  Pass.  Gradually  we  rise,  the  mammoth 
heaps  of  rocks  and  barren  earth  come  nearer. 
From  the  depths  of  this  old  ocean  basin  we 
rise  to  an  altitude  of  2560  feet  and  the  pass  is 
made  behind  us.  The  hot  sand  is  sifting  in 
the  heated  winds  for  a  space  of  140  miles. 
Water  is  brought  to  the  stations  in  tanks  and 
drawn  into  cisterns  under  ground  ;  sand-storms 
are  of  frequent  occurrence,  yet  the  trails  are 
in  use.  We  passed  an  emigrant  wagon  (prairie 
schooner),  with  a  barrel  on  each  side  for  water, 
a  full  load  of  humanity,  assorted  sizes  ;  pater 
familias  in  advance  on  horseback  and  three 
burros  (one  carrying  double),  bringing  up  the 
rear.  How  they  stand  the  fierce  rays  of  the 
sun  is  a  mystery.  Near  San  Gorgonio  Pass  a 


BEAUTIFUL    VALLEYS. 

mountain  stream  is  brought  in  a  trough  a  dis- 
tance of  more  than  a  mile. 

Leaving  the  pass  we  descend  1000  feet  to 
Mound  City.  Wild  melon,  willows,  cactus 
and  occasionally  bright  flowers  put  in  an 
appearance.  After  the  rainy  season  it  is  a 
lovely  country.  At  this  time  irrigation  is 
needed.  At  Colton,  Sir  Knight  Strong  and 
wife  stop  for  a  day  to  visit  friends.  Before 
reaching  this  station  we  pass  immense  fields 
of  barley.  Once  sown  and  reaped  the  land 
will  produce  four  or  five  "  volunteer "  crops. 
The  valleys  are  beautiful.  Orchards  of  apricot, 
peach  and  apple  trees  succeed  each  other,  in- 
terspersed with  lovely  orange  groves,  long  lines 
of  eucalyptus,  flower  gardens,  pretty  houses, 
the  ubiquitous  windmill  which  pumps  the 
water  for  all,  and  broad  vineyards  whose 
growing  vines  need  no  support  of  trellis  or 
post. 

At  San  Jacinto  an  enthusiastic  lad  satisfies 
the  open-eyed  wonder  of  the  crowd  by  the 


TOUR  OF  THE  ST.  ELMO'S. 

side  of  the  track,  with  the  comprehensive 
statement  "  Them's  all  the  way  from  Connec- 
ticut." Mr.  Samuel  Miller  comes  on  board  to 
accompany  us  and  to  make  arrangements  for 
the  trip  to  Yosemite.  We  pass  near  the  Coca 
Munga  ranch,  famed  for  its  wines,  and  then 
look  from  the  windows  down  Orange  avenue, 
seven  miles  in  a  perfect  line.  The  smoky 
haze  enveloping  the  San  Gabriel  range  is  sug- 
gestive of  October,  and  the  great  flocks  of 
sheep  with  attending  shepherd  and  dogs,  the 
buzzards  floating  lazily  about,  the  hills  on  the 
confines  of  the  valley  as  smooth  as  if  rounded 
with  a  trowel,  impress  one  with  the  feeling 
that  the  railroad  has  somehow  got  out  of  its 
proper  world. 

There  go  seven  Indians  on  three  ponies  and 
a  squaw  on  foot  with  her  papoose  strapped  on 
her  back.  We  pass  the  Sierra  Madre  villa 
and  the  brick  buildings  of  the  San  Gabriel 
Wine  company.  Since  morning  we  have 
traversed  a  country  where  not  a  drop  of  rain 

128 


"QUEEN  OF  THE  ANGELS" 

falls  for  months  together,  and  in  these  valleys 
a  thunder  shower  is  unknown.  We  are  ap- 
proaching the  city  of  the  "  Queen  of  the 
Angels."  The  air  is  cool  and  exhilarating. 
As  the  train  stops,  the  Los  Angeles  Sir  Knights 
come  on  board  and  we  alight  to  take  carriages 
for  the  Pico  house. 

A  short  ride,  and  we  are  cozily  settled  for 
two  days  in  this  delightful  spot.  The  Pico 
house  is  built  around  an  open  court  where  a 
fountain  throws  a  plashing  stream  twenty  feet 
in  the  air.  Shading  vines  cling  and  clamber 
on  all  sides.  It  is  cool  during  the  day  and 
bright  with  the  electric  light  at  night.  Baths 
are  in  order  and  then  the  dining  room.  We 
arrange  for  a  ride  on  the  morrow,  and  in 
pleasant  dreams  and  restful  sleep  the  night 
goes  by  till  at  the  dawn  the  chime  of  bells 
calls  every  one  to  indulge  the  fancy  in  the 
strange  commingling  of  life  in  the  streets  of 
charming  Los  Angeles. 


I2Q 


TOUR  OF  THE  ST.  ELMO'S. 

From  Itinerary. 

"Los  Angeles,  or  the  pueblo  de  la  Reina  de 
los  Angeles  (the  town  of  the  Queen  of  the 
Angels),  to  give  its  old  Spanish  Mexican  title 
in  full,  is  the  capital  of  the  county  of  the  same 
name,  and  the  metropolis  of  southern  Cali- 
fornia. It  has  a  population  of  15,000  and  is 
growing  in  size  and  importance.  It  is  in 
the  midst  of  orange  orchards  and  vineyards, 
and  all  kinds  of  tropical  and  semi-tropical 
fruits  are  raised  in  the  vicinity.  The  town 
was  founded  about  1 780,  and  the  older  build- 
ings are  constructed  of  adobe,  in  the  Mexican 
style.  The  Catholic  church  is  an  ancient  and 
picturesque  structure.  At  San  Gabriel,  nine 
miles  east  of  Los  Angeles  and  within  plain  view 
from  the  cars,  is  the  old  mission  church  of  San 
Gabriel,  the  fourth  in  order  of  date  ( 1 7  7 1 )  of  the 
missions  founded  by  the  venerable  Franciscan 
pioneer,  Padre  Junipero  Serra,  between  1796 
and  1 782.  There  are  many  large  vineyards  and 
orange  orchards  within  the  city  of  Los  Angeles." 

fJO 


LOS  ANGELES. 


CHAPTER  XI I L 

HOTEL  ON  WHEELS,  August  9. 
At  Los  Angeles  we  are  glad  to  meet  Sir 
Knight  T.  M.  Smith,  of  St.  Elmo.  Pueblo 
de  la  Reina  de  los  Angeles  (the  old  Spanish 
title),  is  known  as  Los  Angeles.  It  is  a 
very  pleasant  city,  with  its  orange  groves, 
gardens  and  vineyards.  There  are  many 
large  and  elegant  buildings,  much  of  refine- 
ment and  wealth,  and  a  strange  admixture 
of  Mongolian,  Mexican  and  American  civ- 
ilization. The  morning  and  evening  trade 
winds  coming  from  the  Pacific  ocean  fur- 
nish an  exhilarating  atmosphere,  which  it  is 
a  pleasure  to  breathe.  This  morning,  after  a 
good  breakfast  at  the  Pico  house  (in  which 
connection  I  must  not  forget  the  watermelons, 
which  weigh  from  thirty  to  ninety  pounds  each, 
often  reaching  one  hundred),  we  start  in  car- 
riages for  a  thirty  miles'  drive  through  the  par- 


TOUR  OF  THE  ST.  ELMO'S. 

adise  of  semi-tropical  Southern  California.  Our 
route  is  via  Pasadena  to  the  delightful  Sierra 
Madre  Villa.  We  pass  through  miles  of  orange 
groves,  the  streets  often  lined  with  graceful 
pepper  trees,  the  fruit  of  which  furnishes  the 
ordinary  black  pepper  for  our  tables.  The  air 
is  spicy,  the  views  are  beautiful,  and  every- 
thing delightful,  except  the  dust  and  the  occa- 
sional roughness  of  the  roads.  At  Sierra 
Madre  Villa  we  are  kindly  received  and  wel- 
comed by  Mr.  W.  P.  Rhoades,  the  lessee  and 
son-in-law  of  the  proprietor,  Mr.  William 
Cogswell.  This  charming  Eden  was  started 
eight  years  ago  by  Mr.  Rhoades,  who  cleared 
the  first  land  and  planted  the  first  orange  trees. 
We  roam  over  scores  of  acres  of  orange  groves, 
and  are  allowed  to  pick  and  eat  at  will.  Here 
are  magnificent  bird-of-paradise  trees,  India- 
rubber  trees,  figs,  apricots,  peaches,  apple,  pear 
and  pomegranate,  with  grapes  in  rare  profu- 
sion, also  groves  of  lemon  and  lime.  Three 
hundred  acres  are  under  cultivation.  Thirty 

132 


SIERRA  MADRE   VILLA. 

miles  from  the  ocean  the  strong  sea  breeze 
comes  like  a  breath  from  the  hand  of  the 
Creator,  full  of  healthful,  invigorating  life. 
Islands  in  the  Pacific  ocean,  sixty-five  miles 
away,  are  in  plain  sight.  This  is  no  place 
for  a  poor  man  to  locate,  but  one  who  has  the 
means  to  wait  for  a  half  dozen  years  while  his 
groves  and  vineyards  are  becoming  productive, 
can  make  himself  a  home  like  a  paradise.  The 
rainy  season  from  November  to  April  is  not 
unpleasant.  Three  or  at  most  four  days  of 
rain  are  followed  by  beautiful  sunny  weather 
for  about  five  days.  There  are  showers,  but 
never  lightning  or  thunder,  and  all  the  moun- 
tain-sides and  hill-slopes  are  vivid  with  "  living 
green  "  and  bright  with  gorgeous  wild  flowers. 
The  dry  season  is  without  a  drop  of  rain  but 
delightfully  cool  except  at  mid-day.  Irrigation 
protects  the  vegetation  under  cultivation  and 
there  seems  to  be  no  portion  of  the  year  un- 
lovely. We  take  a  lunch,  bid  the  genial  host 
"Adios"  and  drive  four  and  a  half  miles  to 


TOUR  OF  THE  ST.  ELMO'S. 

Sunny  Slope,  the  immense  vineyards  of  Stern 
&  Rose.  They  have  one  plot  of  vines,  in  bear- 
ing, just  one  mile  square.  Here  are  hundreds 
of  bushels  of  oranges  lying  on  the  ground 
under  the  trees  which  are  laden  with  ripening 
fruit.  This  firm  manufacture  annually  630,000 
gallons  of  wines  and  brandy.  We  were  shown 
200,000  gallons  in  one  room,  some  of  the  large 
butts  containing  2200  gallons  each.  They  raise 
one  and  one-half  million  pounds  of  grapes  per 
annum  and  purchase  six  million  more.  The 
establishment  is,  in  the  language  of  the  street, 
"a  big  thing."  Mr.  Rose,  Jr.,  gives  our  party 
every  attention.  We  visit  the  stables  where 
thirty  fast  horses  live  in  style.  For  one  of 
these,  "  Sultan,"  an  offer  of  $25,000  was  re- 
fused a  few  days  ago.  Mr.  Rose  is  reputed  to 
be  worth  $5,000,000,  yet  20  years  ago  he 
crossed  the  plains  with  a  single  yoke  of  oxen 
and  a  capital  of  one  thousand  dollars.  From 
this  establishment  we  proceeded  to  the  old  San 
Gabriel  mission.  Here  is  an  interesting  old 


PRODUCTIONS. 

church  built  more  than  a  century  ago.  Among 
the  wonders  of  this  productive  valley  I  men- 
tion the  eucalyptus  tree,  specimens  of  which 
were  shown  us  not  yet  eight  years  old,  four- 
teen inches  in  diameter  at  the  ground.  There 
is  one  vineyard  in  Los  Angeles  county  con- 
taining 2000  acres,  and  the  vineyard  area  of 
California  is  to-day  much  greater  than  that  of 
France.  It  is  claimed  that  a  man  of  limited 
means  can  sow  the  Alfalfa  which  produces  a 
crop  in  three  months  and  can  be  cut  once  a 
month  thereafter.  We  find  the  best  honey 
out  here  ever  produced.  Artesian  wells  can 
be  successfully  bored,  water  being  found  at  a 
depth  varying  from  40  to  200  feet.  There  is 
a  charm  about  this  place  that  captivates  the 
entire  party.  Whether  it  is  the  bracing  salu- 
brious atmosphere,  the  profusion  of  fruits,  or 
the  beauty  of  the  scenery,  I  am  unable  to 
state ;  certain  it  is  we  shall  leave  this  wonder- 
ful locality  with  sincere  regret. 


'35 


TOUR  OF  THE  ST.  ELMO'S. 

From  Itinerary. 

11  On  leaving  Los  Angeles  for  San  Francisco, 
482  miles  distant,  we  climb  the  valleys  of  the 
Los  Angeles  and  the  San  Fernando.  Thirty- 
six  miles  from  Los  Angeles  and  1 200  feet 
above  it,  or  1469  feet  above  the  level  of  the 
sea,  the  train  passes  through  the  San  Fernando 
Range  by  means  of  a  tunnel  6917  feet  in 
length.  North  of  this  range  the  railroad 
crosses  the  Mojave  Desert,  a  more  elevated 
tract  than  the  Colorado  Desert,  but  another 
scene  of  wildness  and  desolation.  This  part 
of  the  journey  will  be  made  at  night.  The 
Tehachapi  Pass,  elevation  3964  feet,  lies  north 
of  the  Mojave  Desert.  Here  a  group  of 
mountain  peaks  belonging  to  the  terminating 
southwestern  spur  of  the  Sierra  Nevada  stood 
in  the  way  of  the  locomotive,  but  by  means  of 
a  bewildering  series  of  complex  and  intricate 
curves,  and  finally  by  making  the  line  actually 
cross  itself  at  a  different  grade,  a  pathway  was 
made.  Beyond  the  Tehachapi  summit  the 


ENGINEERING. 


train  descends  to  the  wide  plains  of  Kern, 
Tulare,  Fresno  and  Merced  counties  and  the 
valley  of  the  San  Joaquin." 


'37 


TOUR  OF  THE  ST.  ELMO'S. 


CHAPTER  XIV. 

August  10. 

Los  Angeles  !  The  jewel  in  the  crown  of 
Southern  California  !  Its  unfamiliar  scenes  and 
semi-tropical  environment  ;  its  delicious  cli- 
mate ;  its  streets  alive  with  busy  industries, 
combine  to  render  it  a  desirable  and  attractive 
locality.  The  plow  comes  into  use  about  four 
weeks  before  Christmas  and  the  winter  is  the 
time  of  green  fields  and  bright  flowers.  Its 
hotels  need  no  fire  for  warmth,  and  the  sun 
shines  on  its  ripening  fruits  every  day  in  the 
year. 

Our  party  was  treated  to  a  ride  this  morn- 
ing and  the  lovely  region  through  which  we 
passed  captivated  all.  Pretty  dwellings  sur- 
rounded by  topical  trees,  vines  and  flowers 
with  fruits  in  profusion.  In  many  places  the 
ground  is  strewn  with  oranges,  lemons,  Eng- 
lish walnuts,  nectarines,  apricots  and  our  well 

'38 


LOS  ANGELES. 

known  New  England  fruits.  Even  on  the 
steep  hillside  vineyards  were  creeping  every- 
where to  the  very  summits,  thickly  studded 
with  brilliant  flowers.  It  was  a  scene  of  beauty 
that  will  never  be  forgotten. 

One  gentleman  at  whose  residence  we  called 
has  at  his  door  a  tree  from  which  the  family 
pick  all  the  lemons  they  need  every  day  in  the 
year. 

The  drawback  here  is  the  sudden  change  of 
thirty  or  thirty-five  degrees  in  the  temperature, 
which  often  occurs  at  or  during  the  night.  It 
is  of  course  an  easy  matter  to  adopt  precau- 
tionary measures. 

John  Chinaman  is  also  here  with  his  un- 
couth fashions  and  modes  of  living.  Some 
well-informed  people,  however,  consider  his 
presence  an  advantage.  The  extent  to  which 
these  Mongolians  are  relied  upon  as  house 
servants  may  be  inferred  from  the  fact  that 
good  servant  girls  receive  as  high  as  $25  a 
month. 

'39 


TOUR  OF  THE  ST.  ELMO'S. 

Last  evening  Coeur  de  Lion  Commandery 
of  this  city  honored  the  Knights  of  St.  Elmo 
with  a  princely  banquet.  It  was  an  out-and- 
out  California  treat ;  a  right  royal  spread. 
Several  of  the  buildings  display  Knight  Tem- 
plar flags  and  emblems.  The  hotel  at  the  rail- 
road depot  was  gay  with  decorations  and  em- 
blems in  honor  of  the  Connecticut  Sir  Knights, 
and  to-night  the  advent  of  the  Grand  Com- 
mander has  caused  even  the  depot  to  enliven 
its  front  with  a  profuse  display. 

In  bidding  adieu  to  this  charming  spot  I  can 
do  no  better  than  to  quote  from  competent 
authority  :  "  Taking  all  things  into  considera- 
tion— equality  of  temperature,  healthfulness 
of  climate,  grand  mountain  scenery,  produc- 
tiveness of  soil,  railroad  and  ocean  facilities, 
accessibility,  etc.,  etc.,  it  has  no  superior  in  the 
world,  either  to  winter  in  or  to  permanently 
reside." 

Saturday,  August  u,  we  left  Madera  for  a 
stage  ride  of  seventy  miles  to  "  Clark's."  The 

140 


MADERA. 

placing  of  our  cars  and  other  delays  made  the 
start  two  hours  late.  Only  half  of  the  party 
are  off  to  the  Yosemite,  the  other  portion  take 
one  of  our  cars  to  Monterey.  Our  start  for 
the  Grand  Valley  was  over  a  level  plain,  trod- 
den everywhere  near  the  road  by  the  tens  of 
thousands  of  sheep  driven  over  it.  To  the 
right  is  a  V-shaped  flume  about  four  feet  in 
depth  built  for  floating  lumber,  and  running 
back  into  a  canon  fifty-eight  miles,  being  at  one 
point  more  than  sixty  feet  from  the  ground,  on 
trestle  work.  The  plain  gradually  becomes 
rolling ;  the  rolls  grow  into  smoothly  rounded 
hills  which  become  more  steep  as  we  proceed. 
Presently  rocks  appear,  but  in  strange  arrange- 
ment, looking  as  if  vast  walls  had  sunk  into  the 
soil  until  only  a  row  of  points  were  left. 
These  rows  multiply,  occasionally  a  rocky  hill 
appears  and  at  last  the  hills  have  grown  massive 
and  we  are  in  a  beautiful  mountainous  country. 
The  rolling  land  is  literally  swarming  with 
ground  squirrels,  little  fellows  very  much  re- 

14* 


TOUR  OF  THE  ST.  ELMO'S. 

sembling  our  gray  squirrel.  They  burrow 
everywhere  until  the  ground  is  honeycombed. 
A  small  species  of  dove  abounds,  and  buzzards 
are  lazily  floating  over  the  hills  or  flocking 
where  a  carcass  invites. 

The  day  is  fine,  a  brisk  breeze  sending  the 
clouds  of  dust  away.  Our  driver,  Mr.  Phil.  B. 
Tobey,  is  superb.  I  find  that  all  the  drivers  on 
the  Yosemite  routes  are  men  of  skill  and  ex- 
perience, and  certainly  both  experience  and  skill 
are  requisites  on  these  wonderful  mountain 
roads. 

Our  first  team  of  four  horses  take  us  at  a 
lively  pace  about  twelve  miles.  The  first  relay 
consists  of  five,  three  leaders  abreast,  the  in- 
creasing grade  and  irregularities  of  the  road  re- 
quiring this  arrangement.  Six  fresh  teams  are 
employed  to  cover  the  seventy  miles,  the  last 
consisting  of  six  horses,  and  the  rocking  coach 
flies  over  the  ground  except  on  the  steep  up- 
grades. Disguise  it  as  one  may,  it  is  a  tiresome 
trip.  Our  way  becomes  more  serpentine  as  the 

142 


THE  RIDE  'TO  CLARK'S. 

mountains  are  reached.  We  whirl  along  their 
sides,  around  impossible  circles  and  curves,  now 
this  way,  now  that ;  suddenly  doubling  on  the 
track  ;  often  on  the  brink  of  a  high  precipice 
or  a  deep  chasm.  So  skillfully  does  the  driver 
bring  the  coach  around,  that  one  soon  acquires 
a  sense  of  security.  A  big  jolt  is  only  a  mirth- 
provoking  incident  and  aching  bones  occasion 
as  many  jokes  as  groans. 

After  reaching  the  rounded  hills,  mistletoe- 
laden  oak  trees  appear  here  and  there,  and 
presently  we  are  in  the  "  oak-openings."  As 
we  approach  the  mountains  we  find  a  few  pine 
.and  spruce  trees  which  become  more  and  more 
abundant  until  at  last  we  skirt  the  steep  moun- 
tain sides  in  the  midst  of  a  stately  forest.  The 
half-way  house  for  dinner  is  at  Coarse  Gold 
Gulch.  California  quail  are  met  with  in  great 
numbers,  and  game  of  various  kinds  abounds. 

The  road  is  dusty,  as  it  must  be  where  no 
rain  falls  during  these  months  of  the  dry  sea- 
son. The  sturdy  trees  are  bright  in  the  green- 

*43 


TOUR  OF  TtfE  ST.  ELMO'S. 

ness  of  their  dress  and  must  strike  deep  down 
to  water  in  this  cracked  and  parched  soil.  A 
coyote  is  seen  and  the  track  of  a  bear,  but  no 
wild  beast  ever  disturbs  the  tourist  in  these 
days.  The  trees  along  the  crooked  road  grow 
more  stately  and  as  the  forest  thickens  become 
of  immense  size. 

The  sun  goes  down  before  our  last  relay, 
but  the  gentlemanly  Phil  dispels  all  fears  by 
his  cool  demeanor  and  reassures  us  by  his 
laughing  sallies.  What  a  glorious  ride,  whirled 
around  the  sharp  curves,  among  great  trees, 
often  on  the  brink  of  a  steep  precipice,  the 
trampling  of  the  six  galloping  horses  ringing 
out  on  the  still  night  air,  and  the  moon  shining 
on  the  yellow  thread  which  wound  in  all  direc- 
tions, ever  nearing  "  Clark's."  It  was  down 
grade  all  the  way.  We  were  exactly  19  min- 
utes between  the  last  station  and  our  destina- 
tion, and  were  singing  in  full  chorus,  both  the 
ladies  and  the  Sir  Knights  making  the  moun. 
tain  sides  ring  with  joyous  notes.  We  held  on 

144 


A  T  CLARK'S. 

tightly  and  the  swaying  coach  brings  us  at  last 
to  the  cheerful  twinkle  of  the  lights ;  a 
moment  more  and  the  wide  balconies  are 
merry  with  a  laughing  crowd  and  the  sharp 
whisk  of  flying  brooms  and  brushes,  in  the 
hands  of  dusky  servants  or  wielded  by  the 
genial  proprietor,  duplicates  in  miniature  the 
dust  clouds  of  the  day. 

The  table  is  well  served,  the  attendants 
polite,  the  plentiful  viands  well  cooked,  the 
rooms  large  and  high  and  very  pleasantly 
arranged,  and  the  beds,  O  such  luxurious  beds  ! 
These,  with  the  delightful  surroundings,  make 
"  Clark's"  a  charming  retreat,  sure  to  be  fully 
appreciated  after  a  stage  ride  of  70  crooked 
miles.  We  are  all  soundly  sleeping  on  the 
morning  of  the  1 2th,  and  the  loud  rap  of  the 
porter  recalls  us  to  a  hurried  toilet,  a  boun- 
tiful breakfast  and  a  clamber  into  a  seat  for 
another  coach  ride  to  the  wonders  of  the 
Yosemite. 

The  distance  is  26  miles.  The  regular  num- 
145 


TOUR  OF  THE  ST.  ELMO'S. 

her  of  horses  required  on  the  round  trip  includ- 
ing the  Mariposa  grove  of  "  Big  Trees"  is  102 
for  each  coach.  An  early  morning  ride  with 
"  Dorse,"  the  best  driver  on  the  coast,  who  has 
held  the  ribbons  for  30  years,  a  happy,  jovial 
party  aboard  and  the  Yosemite  just  ahead,  will 
do  your  soul  good.  A  series  of  zig-zags,  "  short, 
sharp  and  decisive,"  coming  on  the  heels  of 
some  glimpses  of  wonderful  scenery,  ushers  us 
onto  "  Inspiration  Point." 

The  view  defies  description.  Neither  pencil, 
pen  nor  tongue  can  convey  any  adequate  im- 
pression of  its  grandeur.  Every  tired  Sir 
Knight  and  lady  was  in  that  one  glance  amply 
rewarded  for  the  toilsome  trip.  We  stood  and 
drank  in  the  glories  of  this  wonder-land,  then 
away  we  whirled  down,  down  into  the  lovely 
valley,  past  the  "Bridal  Veil"  on  the  right, 
and  lofty,  perpendicular  "  El  Capitan  "  on  the 
left,  between  the  enclosing  walls,  beside  the 
sparkling  waters  of  the  beautiful  Merced.  It 
was  Sabbath  and  all  were  right  glad  to  avail 

146 


YO  SEMITE. 

themselves  of  the  friendly  shelter  of  Cook's 
for  rest.  El  Capitan,  seeming  to  rise  from  the 
narrow  level  of  the  valley,  lifts  its  proud  front 
in  a  perpendicular  line  3600  feet.  The  walls 
of  this  valley  or  chasm  seem  as  if  cleft  from 
top  to  bottom.  We  muse  on  the  scene,  lost 
in  its  awful  grandeur.  A  more  impressive  spot 
it  would  be  difficult  to  conceive.  An  evening 
walk  to  Barnard's,  a  short  distance  up  the 
valley,  brings  us  to  the  loveliest  location.  The 
descending  sun  casts  darkening  shadows  around. 
We  gaze  on  the  limpid  waters  of  the  Merced 
which  flows  at  the  edge  of  the  veranda  at 
Barnard's.  The  twinkling  stars  reflected  in  its 
mirror  surface,  the  winds  which  move  the 
whispering  pines  whose  lofty  tops  seem  like 
tiny  shrubs  beside  the  mighty  cliffs,  and  the 
chill  which  evening  brings  in  these  depths,  only 
deepen  the  sense  of  awe. 

The  cold  compels  a  return,  and  with  orders 
for  an  early  call  we  sleep  within  the  imprison- 
ing walls. 

147 


TOUR  OF  THE  ST.  ELMO'S. 

On  Monday  an  early  ride  brings  us  to 
the  placid  waters  of  Mirror  lake.  It  is  a. 
small  sheet,  but  its  charming  location  has 
given  it  world-wide  fame.  Every  point  of  the 
lofty  wall  is  duplicated  in  beauty  below,  and  a 
wonderful  double  refraction  presents  acres  of 
trees  Upright,  while  only  a  few  steps  away  the 
still  depths  show  a  perfect  picture  of  the  oppo- 
site side  of  the  gorge.  Here  is  a  wondrous 
scene.  The  diverging  lines  of  golden  haze  a 
thousand  feet  below  betoken  the  coming  sun- 
rise. In  the  clear  depths  each  depression  in 
the  jagged  mountain  top  is  reflected  as  a  gate- 
way of  glory,  sending  afar  its  quivering  shafts 
of  light.  Brighter  and  brighter  shine  the  out- 
lines of  the  lofty  rocks.  Suddenly  a  jewel 
sparkles ;  then  another  flashes  out,  until  the 
long  uneven  lines  are  strings  of  blazing  dia- 
monds ;  more  marvelously  beautiful  they  grow 
until  the  myriad  coruscations  seem  to  melt 
into  one  fierce  flash,  and  the  rising  sun  blinds 
the  delighted  eyes.  A  change  of  a  single  step 

148 


UP  THE  TRAIL   TO  GLACIER  POINT. 

and  the  gorgeous  scene  is  repeated  again  and 
again. 

At  sunrise  Mirror  lake  is  beautiful  indeed. 
When  the  feast  is  over  we  ride  down  the  valley 
and  at  every  turn  gaze  on  a  changing  panorama, 
everywhere  transcendently  grand.  A  short 
rest  and  lunch  are  the  preliminaries  to  an  excit- 
ing horseback  journey  up  the  zig-zag  trail 
which  lifts  the  daring  riders  step  by  step  to 
Glacier  Point.  Sir  Knight  Strong,  who  by  the 
way,  is  major  of  the  Horse  Guards,  urges  his 
plucky  pony  in  advance  of  the  Indian  guide 
who  accompanies  us  a  part  of  the  time  and 
follows  in  our  wake  the  rest.  The  trail  seems 
to  lead  straight  into  the  solid  wall  of  rock,  but 
swinging  aside  up  a  steep  incline  takes  advan- 
tage of  the  first  projecting  point  to  turn  upon 
itself  and  push  its  upward  course  in  a  new 
direction.  The  turn  is  close  work  for  the 
horse  at  times  and  lets  the  rider  look  directly 
down.  Upward,  by  sharp  turns,  back  and 
forth  along  the  front  of  the  fearful  preci- 

'49 


TOUR  OF  THE  ST.  ELMO'S. 

pice,  horse  and  rider  apparently  attempt  the 
impossible. 

A  look  down  a  thousand  feet  make  the 
nerves  tense,  but  one  soon  learns  to  ride  along 
the  narrow  way  with  one  foot  in  the  stirrup 
hanging  out  over  awful  heights  without  fear. 
At  one  point  the  short  zig-zags  were  about 
twice  a  horse's  length  and  chased  each  other  up 
for  a  long  time.  I  counted  six  riders,  one 
above  the  other,  in  a  direct  line,  each  alternate 
horse  moving  in  an  opposite  direction  and  all 
going  up  a  steep  incline.  These  horses  can 
climb  splendidly,  but  are  good  for  nothing  else. 

We  reach  Glacier  Point,  and  tying  the  horses 
went  to  the  edge  which  overhangs  the  valley 
three  thousand  two  hundred  feet  in  the  air. 
Stones  thrown  down  seemed  to  settle  slowly 
toward  the  earth  and  actually  disappear  before 
reaching  the  foot  of  the  cliff. 

A  few  steps  brings  us  to  the  hotel,  from  the 
balcony  of  which  towards  the  east,  the  grandest 
view  of  all  bursts  upon  one  like  magic.  To  the 

150 


GLACIER  POINT. 

north  is  Cloud's  Rest,  and  far  away  to  the  south, 
beyond  Mount  Starr  King,  the  Sierra  Nevada 
Range  stretches  away.  In  the  vast  semi-circle, 
lofty  mountain  ranges  are  piled  upon  each 
other,  capped  with  snow  and  dim  with  the  haze 
of  distance.  Exactly  in  the  center  the  Nevada 
Falls  present  seven  hundred  feet  of  rushing 
foam,  the  Merced  river  taking  the  terrible 
plunge,  and  nearer  the  Emerald  Pool ;  then 
the  beautiful  Vernal  Falls,  three  hundred  and 
sixty  feet  in  a  single  broad  sheet,  silvery -white. 
The  immediate  foreground  is  the  concave  front 
of  lofty  vertical  walls  of  solid  rock  thousands  of 
feet  in  height  making  a  grand  sweep  three  miles 
away.  The  glorious  picture  lies  at  our  feet.  We 
sit  and  gaze,  wrapped  in  admiration  and  awed  in- 
to silence,  a  silence  only  broken  by  the  ceaseless 
roar  of  the  rushing  falls.  At  length,  while  the 
mighty  panorama  grows  in  magnitude  and  im- 
pressiveness  the  low  tones  of  a  Sir  Knight 
voiced  the  common  sentiment  in  the  words  : 
"  What  is  man  that  Thou  are  mindful  of  him  ? " 


TOUR  OF  THE  ST.  ELMO'S. 

For  more  than  an  hour  we  gaze  while  the 
wondrous  scene  imprints  itself  indelibly  upon 
the  memory.  There  may  be  other  points  from 
which  equally  fine  views  may  be  obtained,  but 
let  no  tourist  fail  to  look  from  Glacier  Point. 
Reluctantly  we  turn,  and  mounting  our  ponies 
begin  the  perilous  descent,  our  Indian  guide 
bringing  up  the  rear.  Slowly  and  cautiously, 
with  many  a  slide,  the  trusty  beasts  bring  us 
down  again  till  near  the  foot  the  Indian  leaps 
his  pony  across  from  one  path  to  the  next  zig- 
zag below  in  the  effort  to  come  in  ahead.  The 
Major  is  too  quick  for  him  and  with  a  ringing 
laugh  he  strikes  the  level  plain. 

When  half  way  down  we  met  Sir  Knights 
Mather,  Perkins  and  Pratt  riding  up  the  trail, 
they  having  made  an  extra  trip  to  Vernal  and 
Nevada  Falls.  From  them  we  learn  of  the 
stage  robbery  which  has  to-day  startled  all  the 
valley.  We  hear  with  breathless  interest,  this 
being  the  day  announced  for  our  own  arrival 
and  the  despoiled  coach  the  one  in  which  we  had 


THE  ROBBERY. 

engaged  seats.  A  change  in  our  plans  (de- 
cided at  the  last  moment),  brought  us  safely 
into  the  valley  one  day  too  soon  for  the  foot- 
pads. Arriving  at  the  foot  of  the  trail  we  form 
and  ride  proudly  up  to  the  hotel,  ten  horses 
abreast.  The  robbery  is  all  the  theme.  Here 
are  the  victims,  without  watches  or  jewelry  and 
minus  money.  There  were  four  gentlemen  be- 
sides the  driver,  and  three  ladies.  The  Grand 
Commander  of  Arkansas  gave  us  the  details. 

Near  the  top  of  a  long  hill  a  mile  and  a  half 
from  Inspiration  Point,  two  men  spring  from 
behind  the  big  trees  which  grow  so  near  the 
road  that  the  coach  wheels  almost  touch  in  pass- 
ing ;  their  guns  leveled  at  the  driver's  head  call 
a  halt.  The  six  horses  stop,  and  as  the  eager 
faces  of  the  passengers  peer  out  they  look 
into  the  threatening  muzzles  of  the  steady  guns. 
The  order  is  "get  down"  and  "hands  up." 
The  men  get  out  and  are  quickly  formed  in 
line.  Back  of  them  is  a'  double-barreled  gun 
ready  to  end  the  life  of  any  man  who  lets  his 

'S3 


TOUR  OF  THE  ST.  ELMO'S. 

hands  fall.  Each  is  thoroughly  searched.  One 
has  in  his  outside  pocket  a  tiny  lady's  watch, 
which  is  replaced  by  the  highwayman  with  the 
remark  that  he  has  "  no  use  for  that ;"  "  there 
is  nothing  small  about  him,"  he  jocosely  re- 
marks, "except  his  feet."  His  tracks,  which 
we  afterward  examined,  verified  the  assertion  as 
to  the  feet.  The  ladies  are  left  alone.  The 
robbers  cut  the  traces  and  shoot  at  the  horses 
as  they  start  to  go  back.  The  men  are  faced 
about,  their  hands  still  up,  and  ordered  to  move 
away  from  the  valley,  and  not  to  look  back  on 
pain  of  death.  The  loss  is  about  a  thousand 
dollars  in  valuables  and  more  than  that  amount 
in  money.  A  purse  is  made  up  for  the  sufferers 
and  we  retire  too  tired  to  dream  of  bandits. 

Tuesday,  Aug.  14. — "Bright  and  early"  we 
bid  adieu  to  the  Yosemite  and  soon  are  out  ex- 
amining the  ground  where  the  coach  of  last 
evening  was  robbed.  Tracks  lead  off  down  the 
mountain  to  the  river  and  a  large  number  of 
scouts  are  on  the  trail  of  the  villains  to-day. 

*S4 


0  VER  TURNED. 

The  sheriff  has  compelled  the  driver  to  ac- 
company them  in  order  to  identify  the  robbers. 
At  Chinquapin  we  meet  the  Sir  Knights  who 
passed  the  night  on  Glacier  Point.  Our  coach, 
already  full,  can  take  no  more  and  there  are 
enough  accompanying  them  to  fill  another. 
The  regular  driver  is  off  "on  the  chase"  and 
the  substitute  is  unfortunately  in  a  condition  in 
which  no  regular  driver  is  ever  found.  The 
road  is  tortuous  and  steep,  the  six  horses 
become  unmanageable,  and  the  helpless  substi- 
tute pitches  the  whole  load  into  the  rocks. 

The  Sir  Knights  of  our  party  fortunately 
escape  with  a  few  bruises,  but  the  man  who  is 
responsible  for  the  overturn  lies  unconscious. 
It  is  just  at  the  station,  and  another  coach 
is  fitted  out  without  delay.  We  lunch  at 
"Clark's"  and  proceed  at  once  to  visit  Mari- 
posa  Grove.  The  coach  is  quite  familiar  now, 
and  we  do  not  mind  the  shaking.  The  "Grizly 
Giant"  calls  for  special  mention.  Sir  Knight 
Miller  and  myself  paced  around  close  to  the 

'55 


TOUR  OF  THE  ST.  ELMOS. 

bark  and  found  it  thirty-six  paces.  All  the 
monsters  are  visited.  One  "Longfellow"  is 
396  feet  high.  At  last  the  road  leads  directly 
through  the  huge  body  of  a  living  tree.  A 
hole  is  cut  measuring  thirty-four  feet  on  one  of 
its  sides  directly  through  the  heart.  Our  coach, 
containing  fifteen  persons,  was  stopped  when 
in  the  body  of  this  twig.  Six  feet  back  of  the 
rear  wheels  was  the  bark  of  one  of  its  sides, 
while  around  in  front  the  noses  of  the  wheel 
horses  were  exactly  in  line  with  the  bark  of  the 
opposite  side.  Now  that's  the  kind  of*  sapling 
to  talk  about  when  you  have  occasion  to  men- 
tion "  big  trees." 

A  party  of  the  tourists,  preferring  to  visit  the 
"  Newport  of  the  Pacific,"  left  the  Yosemite 
party  at  Madera.  By  the  courtesy  of  T.  H. 
Goodman,  general  passenger  agent  of  the 
Central  Pacific,  they  took  the  car  "City  of 
Worcester"  to  Monterey,  via  Lathrop  and 
San  Jose*.  Sir  E.  B.  Cowles  and  wife,  Sir  E. 
C.  Birdsey  and  wife,  Sir  John  W.  Coe  and 

'&* 


HOTEL  DEL  MONTE, 

wife,  Sir  F.  Stevenson  and  wife,  and  Mrs.  E. 
J.  Doolittle,  registered  at  the  beautiful  Hotel 
Del  Monte.  Sir  E.  B.  Everitt  and  wife  also 
registered  here  on  their  return  from  the 
Yosemite  Valley.  This  wondrous  summer  and 
winter  resort  is  admirably  located  and  superb 
in  all  its  appointments.  The  rooms  are  large 
and  elegantly  furnished,  the  extensive  grounds 
beautiful  beyond  description  and  the  ocean 
breezes  exhilarating. 

Without  question  the  Hotel  Del  Monte  is 
the  handsomest  watering  place  in  America. 
Its  scattered  groves  are  adorned  with 
drive-ways,  foot-paths  and  lovely  lawns  with 
floral  designs  on  a  grand  scale.  About  fifty 
men  are  constantly  employed  in  embellish- 
ing the  gardens  and  avenues.  One  can  drive 
over  twenty  miles  of  macadamized  roads  on 
the  company's  grounds.  There  are  numberless 
swings,  croquet  lawns,  an  archery,  lawn-tennis 
grounds  and  large  bins  of  beach  sand  for  the 
little  folks.  In  the  vicinity  are  the  camp 

'37 


TOUR  OF  THE  ST.  ELMO'S. 

grounds  of  the  Pacific  Grove  Retreat,  Point 
Pinos,  Moss  Beach,  Cypress  Point,  Carmelo 
Bay,  Point  Lobos,  Pebble  Beach,  the  Old 
Mission  Church,  and  the  interesting  old  town 
of  Monterey,  with  its  ancient  adobes  and 
churches  and  the  old  Blockhouse  or  Fort. 

The  acres  of  landscape-gardening  imme- 
diately surrounding  the  buildings  present 
many-hued  flowers  in  intricate  designs,  which 
exhale  their  fragrance  every  day  in  the  year, 
the  temperature  of  January  varying  only  six 
degrees  from  that  of  July.  Huge  cactus  thirty 
feet  in  height  and  gorgeous  tropical  flowers 
find  a  place  as  well  as  the  modest  violet,  re- 
minding us  of  our  New  England  home  thou- 
sands of  miles  away. 

Surf  bathing  can  be  enjoyed  "all  the  year 
around,"  but  the  immense  bathing  building 
with  roof  and  side  of  glass  is  worthy  of  note. 
Five  tanks  holding  275,000  gallons  each  are 
kept  by  steam  pipes  at  different  degrees  of 
temperature  and  refilled  daily.  These  are 


MONTERE  Y. 

surrounded  by  broad  platforms  for  bathers  and 
spectators,  and  the  whole  is  beautified  by  flow- 
ering vines  and  plants  growing  in  profusion. 

How  we  enjoyed  the  drives  with  a  fine 
"turn  out"  of  beautiful  bays  " four-in-hand." 
All  along  the  beach  are  such  lovely  views. 
Many  of  the  nearer  islands  and  rocks  are  sur- 
rounded by  scores  of  tumbling  sea  lions  and 
are  often  white  with  myriads  of  birds.  What 
fun  to  hunt  for  shells.  We  gathered  many 
elegant  specimens  at  the  cost  of  ruined  cloth- 
ing and  a  thorough  wetting.  A  day  was 
devoted  to  the  mountain  streams,  and  fifty-five 
handsome  trout  will  be  discussed  on  our  return 
trip  to  San  Francisco. 

from  Itinerary. 

"  The  morning  finds  the  train  descending  the 
broad  valley  of  the  San  Joaquin  towards  the 
Sacramento  and  the  Golden  Gate.  The  blue 
peaks  of  the  Sierra  Nevada  are  about  fifty 
miles  eastward,  and  the  Coast  Range,  less  ele- 
vated, is  nearer  at  hand  in  the  west.  Later, 


TOUR  OF  THE  ST.  ELMO'S. 

Mount  Diabolo,  one  of  the  most  picturesque 
elevations  of  the  Coast  Range,  and  only 
twenty-eight  miles  from  San  Francisco,  be- 
comes a  prominent  object.  This  mountain  is 
3856  feet  high,  and  before  reaching  Oakland 
the  railroad  passes  more  than  half  way  around 
it.  Beyond  Lathrop  we  cross  the  San  Joaquin 
River,  and  soon  after  approach  the  shores  of 
Suisun  Bay,  which  the  railroad  skirts  for  some 
distance.  The  Straits  of  Carquinez  and  San 
Pablo  Bay  also  lie  upon  our  right,  and  across 
the  former  is  seen  Benicia,  and  at  the  head  of 
the  latter,  Vallejo.  Near  Vallejo  is  Mare 
Island.  Rounding  the  point  at  San  Pablo  we 
come  to  San  Francisco  Bay,  of  which  the  Bay 
of  San  Pablo  is  a  northeastern  extension. 
Mount  Diabolo,  an  hour  since  west  of  us,  is 
now  east,  and  across  the  bay  lies  San  Francisco, 
the  Golden  Gate  and  Mount  Tamalpais.  At 
Oakland  the  train  reaches  its  terminus,  and  a 
large  ferry-boat  conveys  the  passengers  across  the 
bay  to  the  foot  of  Market  street,  San  Francisco. 

160 


SAN  FRANCISCO. 
"  SAN      FRANCISCO," 

The  metropolis  of  the  Pacific  Coast,  was  born 
of  the  gold  excitement  of  1848  and  1849.  I* 
now  has  233,956  inhabitants,  having  in  thirty- 
four  years  reached  the  rank  of  the  ninth 
American  city  in  point  of  population.  It  is 
very  picturesquely  situated  between  the  Pacific 
Ocean  and  San  Francisco  Bay,  and  occupies 
several  bold  hills.  It  is  more  cosmopolitan 
than  any  other  city  in  America,  except  possibly 
New  York,  and  one  of  its  greatest  curiosities  is 
its  populous  Chinese  quarter.  -There  are  many 
fine  buildings  in  San  Francisco,  and  one  of  the 
grandest  of  all  is  the  Palace  Hotel.  This  is  the 
largest  hotel  in  the  world,  and  one  of  its  feat- 
ures is  a  grand  covered  court  seven  stories  high, 
into  which  carriages  are  driven.  The  Masonic 
Temple  is  at  the  corner  of  Post  and  Montgom- 
ery streets,  near  the  Palace  Hotel  ;  the  new 
City  Hall,  on  Market  street,  opposite  Eighth 
street ;  the  Mechanics'  Pavilion,  on  Eighth, 
Market  and  Mission  streets  ;  the  branch  United 

161 


TOUR  OF  THE  ST.  ELMO'S. 

States  Mint,  at  the  corner  of  Mission  and  fifth 
streets  ;  the  Post  Office  and  Custom  House,  at 
the  corner  of  Washington  and  Battery  streets  ; 
the  Merchants'  Exchange  building,  on  California 
street ;  the  San  Francisco  Stock  Exchange, 
No.  327  Pine  street,  and  the  old  City  Hall, 
corner  of  Kearney  and  Washington  streets. 
Golden  Gate  Park  and  the  Cliff  House  may  be 
reached  either  by  carriage  or  by  the  Geary 
street  "  cable  road."  California  street  is  the 
Wall  street,  and  Market  street  the  Broadway, 
of  the  city.  Kearney  and  Montgomery  streets 
are  also  busy  thoroughfares.  The  principal 
wharves  are  on  the  eastern  side  of  the  city. 
There  are  places  of  worship  for  all  sects,  includ- 
ing the  Chinese.  The  old  Mission  Dolores, 
established  by  the  early  Franciscan  Fathers,  is 
at  the  corner  of  Dolores  and  Sixteenth  streets. 
The  remarkable  drill  of  the  Fire  Patrol  may  be 
witnessed  every  day  at  12.00  M.,  in  the  building 
at  the  corner  of  Stevenson  and  Ecker  streets. 
The  locations  of  the  principal  places  of  amuse- 

162 


PLACES  OF  AMUSEMENT. 

ment  are  as  follows.  California  Theatre,  Bush 
street,  between  Kearney  and  Dupont ;  Bush 
Street  Theatre,  south  side  Bush,  between  Mont- 
gomery and  Kearney  ;  Standard  Theatre,  north 
side  Bush,  between  Montgomery  and  Kearney  ; 
Baldwin  Theatre,  under  Baldwin  House,  Mar- 
ket, near  Powell ;  Grand  Opera  House,  Mis- 
sion, between  Third  and  Fourth  ;  Chinese 
Theatres,  623  Jackson  and  814  Washington. 
Gardens — Tivoli,  Eddy,  between  Powell  and 
Mason  ;  Winter,  Stockton,  between  Post  and 
Sutter ;  Vienna,  corner  Stockton  and  Sutter ; 
Woodward's  Garden,  comprising  a  menagerie, 
botanical  collection,  aquaria,  natural  curiosities, 
an  entertainment  hall,  etc.,  occupies  two  squares, 
bounded  by  Valencia,  Mission,  Thirteenth  and 
Fifteenth  streets." 


TOUR  OF  THE  ST.  ELMO'S. 


CHAPTER  XV. 

WEDNESDAY,  Aug.  15. 

To  Madera  !  A  splendid  dinner  at  Clark's ; 
an  early  " lay-out"  on  a  bed  of  the  best  kind; 
a  sudden  rise  and  an  excellent  breakfast  fits  us 
for  another  little  trip  of  seventy  miles.  The 
thermometer  is  at  forty-four  when  we  ''strike 
out  for  the  woods."  The  road  is  the  same  and 
is  so  terribly  crooked  that  I  trust  I  shall  be  ex- 
cused if  instead  of  pursuing  the  devious  path- 
way of  the  coach,  I  pursue,  instead,  a  short  train 
of  reflections. 

The  Yosemite  Valley  is  given  to  the  state 
of  California  in  trust.  It  is  said  that  prices  of 
carriages,  etc.,  are  regulated  by  commissioners. 
Would  it  not  be  a  good  plan  for  the  state  to 
give  to  the  public  information  concerning  the 
various  points  of  interest ;  the  best  modes  of 
reaching  them  ;  the  best  routes  to  and  from  the 
valley,  etc.? 

164 


^REFLECTIONS. 

There  are  three  hotels  in  the  valley.  One  is 
very  pleasantly  located,  and  has  bath  rooms, 
barber  shop  and  billiards,  yet  this  is  the  hotel 
we  do  not  hear  of  until  we  stroll  about  and  discov- 
er it.  Not  only  this,  but  our  delay  in  starting  for 
the  valley  is  largely  due  to  earnest  efforts  to  sell 
us  coupon  tickets  for  meals  and  lodgings  which, 
when  purchased,  keep  one  away  from  the  most 
attractive  house.  We  hear  nothing  of  the  trail 
to  Eagle-Cliff  until  after  leaving  the  valley,  and 
then  by  chance.  The  advance  agents  could 
afford  "  more  light"  and  not  harm  themselves. 
The  Washburns  are  entitled  to  credit  for  their 
management  of  the  "  Clark"  hotel  and  the 
stage  route.  Yet  one  takes  away  the  impres- 
sion that  the  railroad,  the  coach  routes  and  two 
of  the  hotels  are  in  some  sort  of  combination. 
If  Yosemite  is  a  public  park,  "  why  is  this  thus  ?" 

One  day's  ride  brings  us  at  dusk  to  our  cars 
at  Madera.  It  is  like  a  return  home.  Baths, 
barbers  and  beds  preface  a  quiet  night.  At 
early  morning  away  we  spin  for  "  Frisco." 


TOUR  OF  THE  ST.  ELMO'S. 

Shortly  after  noon  we  are  met  at  Oakland  by 
Sir  Knight  William  P.  Morgan,  a  member  of 
our  own  Commandery  residing  here,  who  kindly 
welcomes  us  and,  acting  as  guide,  conducts 
us  across  the  ferry  to  the  Golden  Gate  city  and 
the  headquarters  of  St.  Elmo,  No.  9,  at  "The 
Baldwin,"  first  floor,  room  twenty-eight.  Our 
way  is  amid  the  most  elaborate  and  profuse 
decorations.  Not  only  this  portion  but  the 
entire  city  is  robed  in  holiday  attire ;  miles 
upon  miles,  from  roof  to  sidewalk  a  bright  flut- 
tering sea  of  color.  Immense  paintings,  costly 
Templar  emblems  and  designs,  burnished  suits 
of  armour,  life  size  figures  of  Knights  on  foot 
and  mounted,  banners  of  rich  hues,  and 
frequently  of  costly  workmanship,  national  and 
state  flags,  mottoes  of  welcome,  intricate  show- 
window  decorations  of  wondrous  beauty,  thou- 
sands of  long  lines  of  pennons  crossing  every- 
where overhead,  and  huge  triumphal  arches 
transform  the  entire  city  into  a  dazzling,  be- 
wildering dreamland,  a  scene  of  beauty  as  far  as 

r66 


OUR  QUARTERS. 

the  eye  can  reach  in  every  direction.  No  city 
on  the  continent  ever  even  approached  this. 
The  overarching  lines  as  seen  from  higher  points 
seem  like  solid  pavements  of  bright  colors 
over  which  an  army  might  march. 

We  meet  our  friends  at  our  quarters.  Our 
rooms  are  decorated  in  beautiful  style.  From 
the  ceiling  are  looped  long  festoons  of  ferns 
and  flowers  with  heraldic  shields ;  the  large 
mirror  crossed  by  letters  of  rare  flowers  form- 
ing the  words,  "Thrice  Welcome,"  the  mantles 
and  tables  filled  with  costly  exotics  in  Knight 
Templar  designs,  and  mottoes  of  welcome 
about  the  sides  of  the  rooms.  Mrs.  William 
P.  Morgan,  the  daughter  of  Hon.  Horace  C. 
Wilcox,  of  our  own  city,  had  taken  pride  in 
doing  this  work  with  her  own  hands.  Her 
elegant  suit  of  rooms  in  this  fine  hotel  are  also 
at  the  disposal  of  our  party,  the  windows  afford- 
ing fine  views  of  the  principal  streets.  Our 
own  windows  also  give  us  excellent  views.  To 
Sir  Knight  William  P.  Morgan  and  his  esti- 

167 


TOUR  OF  THE  ST.  ELMO'S. 

mable  wife,  St.  Elmo  Commandery  is  greatly 
indebted.  During  the  entire  time  of  our  stay 
they  have  done  all  in  their  power  for  us.  The 
reception  accorded  to  visiting  Sir  Knights  is  on 
a  scale  of  princely  munificence.  All  over  this 
great  city  the  "golden  gates"  are  open  wide. 
Such  royal  entertainment  is  unparalleled.  Dur- 
ing the  days  of  the  grand  processions  all  places 
of  business  are  closed,  and  even  the  courts  are 
not  in  session.  The  absolute  order  observed 
everywhere  is  surprising.  On  these  days,  as 
soon  as  the  miles  of  tossing  plumes  and  impos- 
ing regalia  take  up  the  long  line  of  march,  the 
horse  cars  are  removed  and  not  a  team  of  any 
kind  is  to  be  seen  on  these  streets.  The  myr- 
iads of  lookers-on  are  decorously  keeping 
within  the  curbs,  and  the  entire  width  of  the 
streets  is  unobstructed  for  long  hours. 

One  very  noticeable  matter  is  worthy  of 
mention.  Notwithstanding  the  fact  that  costly 
California  wines  are  flowing  everywhere  "  as 
free  as  the  air  you  breathe,"  we  have  not  seen 

168 


HOSPITALITY. 

a  single  intoxicated  man  during  our  entire  stay 
in  the  city.  One  cannot  walk  two  blocks  here 
on  any  day  without  meeting  a  band  of  music 
followed  by  lines  of  Sir  Knights.  All  day  and 
most  of  the  night,  all  over  the  city,  is  one  un- 
interrupted ovation,  and  this  goes  on  for  days. 
The  Californians  are  the  most  hospitable  peo- 
ple on  earth,  and  the  great  host  which  is 
swarming  everywhere  during  these  notable  days, 
are  received  by  all,  with  the  heartiest  demon- 
strations of  welcome.  The  Triennial  Conclave 
at  San  Francisco  will  never  fade  from  the 
memory  of  any  who  were  so  fortunate  as  to 
participate.  To  every  corner  of  this  great  con- 
tinent will  be  carried  memories  of  this  bright 
era,  in  which  St.  Elmo  Commandery  of  Meri- 
den  is  proud  to  have  a  share. 


TOUR  OF  THE  ST.  ELMO'S. 


CHAPTER  XV L 

Sir  Knight  Judge  Coe  kindly  furnishes  the 
following  concerning  the  Geysers  : 

Notwithstanding  our  stage  ride  of  more  than 
two  hundred  miles  in  visiting  the  Yosemite  and 
Big  Trees,  a  portion  of  the  party  could  not 
forego  the  anticipated  pleasure  of  a  trip  pro- 
nounced by  many  as  the  most  "enchanting  and 
diversified"  of  any  on  the  Pacific  coast.  Sir 
L.  E.  Coe  and  wife,  Sir  J.  W.  Coe  and  wife, 
and  Sir  H.  H.  Strong  and  wife  accordingly 
started  on  the  morning  following  our  arrival 
at  San  Francisco  for  the  Geysers,  which  are 
about  100  miles  from  San  Francisco  in  a 
northerly  direction.  Our  route  was  via  the 
Napa  Valley,  passing  in  view  of  Goat  Island, 
Mare  Island  with  its  navy  yard,  San  Pablo  Bay, 
which  we  crossed  by  ferry,  the  Good  Templars' 
Home  for  Orphans,  and  the  Napa  Insane 
Asylum  ;  the  principal  towns  en  route,  Vallejo, 

170 


X.,  AND  FOSS,   JR. 

Napa,  St.  Helena,  and  Calistoga.  The  Napa 
Valley  lying  between  two  coast  ranges,  the 
Napa  mountains  on  the  east  and  Sonoma 
mountains  on  the  west,  is  one  of  the  most 
highly  improved  and  productive  portions  of 
California.  On  arrival  at  Calistoga,  seventy- 
two  miles  from  San  Francisco,  we  left  the 
cars  for  a  stage  ride  of  twenty-seven  miles, 
the  ribbons  handled  by  Clark  Foss,  the  famous 
stage  driver  of  tourist  writers,  who  drives 
to  Fossville,  at  which  place  he  keeps  a  hotel 
where  we  stopped  for  lunch  and  to  change 
horses.  From  Fossville  to  the  Geysers  we 
had  for  our  driver  Charlie  Foss,  an  only 
son  and,  we  thought,  the  equal  as  a  driver,  of 
Foss  senior.  This,  like  the  Yosemite  stage 
rides  before  spoken  of,  was  up,  down  and  on 
the  sides  of  mountains,  where  often  the  stage 
was  moving  in  one  direction  while  the  leaders 
of  the  six  horses  were  running  in  another, 
giving  the  passengers  varied  views  of  scenery  ; 
of  the  ravine,  a  frightful  distance  below, 


TOUR  OF  THE  ST.  ELMO'S. 

and  the  beautiful  valley  and  mountains  beyond. 
Charlie  showed  us  the  "  Elephant,"  which  is 
formed  by  the  outline  of  one  of  the  mountain 
peaks  on  the  right.  On  the  top  of  the  moun- 
tain we  obtained  magnificent  views  of  the 
fertile  Napa  and  Sonoma  valleys,  together  with 
the  coast  ranges  of  mountains  and  the  Pacific 
Ocean  far  to  the  west.  We  stopped  again  to  ex- 
change horses,  at  which  station  were  an  elderly 
couple,  who  kept  "specimens,"  trinkets  and 
small  beer  for  sale.  The  ride  down  the  mountain 
was  exciting  and  quickly  performed,  arriving  at 
the  Geyser  Hotel  between  five  and  six  o'clock. 
The  hotel  stands  1800  feet  above  the  level  of 
the  sea,  on  the  south  side  of  a  valley  through 
which  flows  the  Pluton  River.  In  the  hills 
and  mountains  on  the  opposite  side  of  the 
valley  are  the  Geysers,  or  "Geyser  Springs." 
These  hills  were  partially  hidden  from  view 
by  the  escaping  steam,  something  like  the 
fogs  at  times  creeping  up  our  West  Peaks, 
or  like  the  smoke  from  extensive  forest  fires. 

172 


THE  GEYSERS. 

We  improved  the  hour  before  dark  in  visit- 
ing the  near  Geysers  or  volcanic  hills,  situated  a 
hundred  rods  to  the  right  of  the  main  Geysers. 
It  is  a  knoll  of  an  acre,  having  a  yellowish 
surface,  with  every  other  conceivable  color 
intermixed.  This  surface  was  composed  of  a 
brittle  crumbling  substance  which  had  been 
ejected  from  below  or  which  had  been  formed 
by  the  action  of  the  escaping  steam  upon  the 
surface  rocks  and  earth. 

A  hundred  jets  of  steam  were  escaping 
through  the  ground  like  the  escaping  of  smoke 
from  a  coal  pit  through  every  crevice,  the  whole 
surface  of  the  hill  being  hot.  There  were  also 
many  hot  water  springs  proceeding  from  the 
ground,  and  from  this  hill  the  hot  natural  sulphur 
water  and  steam  are  taken  to  the  bath  house  in 
the  immediate  neighborhood.  The  air  here  and  at 
the  hotel  is  thick  with  sulphur,  and  even  was 
noticed  by  us  a  mile  before  reaching  the  hotel. 
A  sulphur  steam  bath  taken  later  in  the  even- 
ing was  pronounced  the  best  ever  experienced. 

'73 


TOUR  OF  THE  ST.  ELMO'S. 

The  next  morning  we  were  awakened  by  the 
guide  saying,  "It  is  now  five  o'clock  ;  at  half- 
past  five  I  start  to  show  the  Geysers.  All 
should  wear  old  shoes  and  ladies  should  wear 
waterproofs  and  leave  their  dress  skirts  at 
home."  The  guests  of  the  hotel  who  had  not 
hitherto  visited  the  Geysers  were  soon  ready. 
All  were  furnished  with  long  staves  and  quickly 
made  the  descent  to  Pluton  River,  some 
seventy-five  feet  lower  than  the  hotel.  After 
crossing  the  stream  we  soon  reached  the  base 
of  the  mountain  and  the  foot  of  a  canon  run- 
ning at  right  angles  with  the  main  valley. 
This  lateral  canon  in  which  are  situated  most 
of  the  springs,  is  called  "  Devil's  Canon,"  and 
down  it  flows  a  small  colored  stream  of  water 
called  Geyser  River.  The  canon  is  V-shaped, 
with  the  wall  on  the  west  side  higher  than 
that  on  the  east.  The  ascent  through  the 
gorge  is  quite  steep  and  slippery,  yet  the  banks 
on  either  side  rise  faster  than  the  gorge  itself. 
The  springs  and  objects  of  interest  are  mostly 

174 


A  HO  T  SPO  T. 

t 

at  the  bottom,  or  in  the  lower  parts  of  the  side 
walls.  We  first  visited  an  iron  spring,  then  an 
alkaline  spring,  then  a  sulphur  spring,  and,  as 
we  advanced  up  the  ravine,  wre  found  hot 
springs  impregnated  with  Epsom  salts  and 
magnesia  and  then  a  neighborhood  where 
nearly  all  are  sulphur.  The  ground  is  burning 
hot  under  the  feet,  the  stream  which  is 
formed  by  the  various  springs  is  hot,  the  walk- 
ing sticky  and  slushy,  and  the  atmosphere 
stifling. 

Almost  every  spring  and  nook  and  corner 
has  a  name.  Among  them  are  the  "  Devil's 
Arm-chair,"  "Devil's  Kitchen,"  "Devil's  Ink- 
stand," "  Devil's  Canopy,"  "  Devil's  Stewpan," 
"Devil's  Teakettle,"  "Pluto's  Punch  Bowl," 
"Witches'  Caldron,"  "  Devil's  Pulpit,"  "  Devil's 
Apothecary  Shop,"  "  Steamboat  Spring," 
"  Temperance  Spring,"  "  Hot  Acid  Spring/' 
"  Lemonade  Spring,"  "  Devil's  Oven,"  etc. 
The  water  in  these  springs  is  generally  warm 
and  of  greatly  differing  degrees  of  temperature. 

175 


TOUR  OF  THE  ST.  ELMO'S. 

Iron  Spring  is  73°  ;  Alum  Spring,  97°  ;  Alum 
and  Sulphur  Spring,  156°  ;  Epsom  Salt,  146°  ; 
Witches'  Caldron,  195°,  Alum  Spring  again, 
1 76°,  and  the  Geyser  stream  itself  formed  by  a 
combination  of  every  kind  of  medicated  water 
shows  a  temperature  of  102°.  The  water  from 
the  "  Devil's  Inkstand"  put  into  a  bottle  looks 
like  writing  fluid.  The  "  Witches'  Caldron  "  is 
a  spring  some  eight  feet  in  diameter,  of  un- 
known depth  ;  the  water  black  and  thick  with 
mud,  the  violent  ebullition  giving  it  something 
the  appearance  of  boiling  down  sorghum  syrup 
in  a  huge  pan  over  a  very  hot  fire. 

At  one  of  the  openings  near  by,  the 
steam  escaped  so  violently  as  to  throw  aside 
all  objects  we  attempted  to  put  over  or  into  it. 
Even  stones  were  quickly  displaced.  At 
one  point  we  could  distinctly  hear  noises  in  the 
banks  which  sounded  like  hammering  iron  in  a 
machine  shop.  This  is  appropriately  named 
the  "  Devil's  Work  Shop."  At  another,  above 
the  hissing  and  bubbling  noises  was  the  sound 

176 


RARE  WONDERS. 

as  of  a  boiler  blowing  off  steam ;  called 
"  Steamboat  Geyser."  We  tasted  the  crystal 
formations  around  the  springs  and  steam 
vents,  and  found  apparently  pure  Epsom  salts, 
sulphur,  magnesia,  saltpeter,  etc.  Side  by  side 
are  springs  of  sulphur  water  and  pure  cold 
water.  One  hundred  and  fifty  feet  above 
all  apparent  action,  the  temperature  of  the 
clay  there  found  is  167°.  On  the  east  bank 
of  the  canon  we  found  the  clayey  earth  to 
spring  by  the  weight  of  a  person  walking 
ing  upon  it  like  a  spring-board.  Some  of  our 
party  made  haste  to  get  off  from  it  for  fear  of 
going  through  to  an  unknown  region.  Here, 
too,  we  found  the  "  Devil's  Paint  Shop,"  the 
clay  being  of  a  scarlet  color,  about  the  same  as 
we  saw  on  many  Indian  faces  at  Wallace  and 
other  places.  Undoubtedly  the  coast  Indians 
a  few  years  since  often  resorted  to  this  wonder- 
ful place  to  procure  their  war  paints,  and  to  heal 
their  sick. 

It  would  seem  that  the  multitude  of  mineral 
777 


TOUR  OF  THE  ST.  ELMO'S. 

combinations  found  in  the  "  Devil's  Apothecary 
Shop  "  might  be  sufficient  to  cure  all  diseases 
that  flesh  is  heir  to.  One  writer  has  said  :  "  On 
every  foot  of  ground  we  had  trodden,  the  crys- 
talline products  of  an  unceasing  chemical  action 
abounded  :  alum,  magnesia,  tartaric  acid,  Epsom 
salts,  ammonia,  nitre,  iron,  and  sulphur." 

Bayard  Taylor  thus  describes  the  canon : 
"  Over  the  rocks  crusted  as  with  a  mixture  of 
blood  and  brimstone,  pour  angry  cataracts  of 
seething  milky  water.  In  every  corner  and 
crevice  a  little  piston  is  working  or  a  heart  is 
beating,  while  from  a  hundred  vent-holes  above 
our  heads  the  steam  rushes  in  terrible  jets. 
I  have  never  beheld  any  scene  so  entirely  in- 
fernal in  its  appearance.  The  rocks  burn  under 
you  ;  you  are  enveloped  in  fierce  heat,  strangled 
by  puffs  of  diabolical  vapor  and  stunned  by 
the  awful  hissing,  spitting,  sputtering,  roaring, 
threatening  sounds,  as  if  a  dozen  steamboats, 
blowing  through  their  escape  pipes  had  aroused 
the  ire  of  ten  thousand  hell-cats." 

178 


THE  RETURN. 

To  "  do  "  the  geysers  took  us  about  an  hour 
and  a  half.  On  our  return  to  San  Francisco 
we  chose  a  different  route  from  the  one  taken 
before,  to  wit,  the  Cloverdale  and  Sonoma 
valley  route,  \vhich  consists  of  another  of  those 
mountain  stage  rides  of  fifteen  miles  to  Clover- 
dale,  the  road  generally  very  narrow  and  very 
high  above  the  ravine,  affording  a  variety  of 
beautiful  mountain  and  landscape  scenery. 
The  "  Turk's  Head "  was  pointed  out  to  us. 
It  is  a  rock  formation  and  the  most  perfect 
natural  profile  ever  seen,  not  excepting  the 
"Old  Man  of  the  Mountain."  We  were 
fortunate  in  our  traveling  companions,  who 
were  Sir  Knight  and  Mrs.  Bunton,  of  Boston, 
and  Mrs.  Tristam  Burgess,  chairman  Ladies' 
Reception  Committee,  of  San  Francisco.  At 
Cloverdale,  \vhere  we  stopped  for  lunch,  we 
found  the  thermometer  to  register  1 10°,  yet 
ladies  who  took  the  train  thence  for  San  Fran- 
cisco took  their  furs,  and  placed  them  in  the 
racks  of  the  cars  ;  they  were  needed  before 


TOUR  OF  THE  ST.  ELMO'S. 

they  reached  our  destination.  Our  railroad 
ride  through  the  Sonoma  Valley  gave  us 
another  opportunity  to  see  the  vast  wheat  fields 
and  extensive  orchards  and  vineyards,  made 
productive  by  the  wonderful  soil  and  climate  of 
California.  Some  of  the  principal  towns  on 
the  road  are  Cloverdale,  Healdsburg,  Santa 
Rosa,  Petaluma,  and  San  Rafael.  The  dis- 
tance from  Cloverdale  to  San  Francisco  is 
ninety  miles,  the  last  thirteen  of  which  were 
by  boat  across  San  Francisco  Bay.  It  was 
a  delightful  sail,  with  views  of  the  city,  the 
setting  sun  and  the  Golden  Gate.  Thus  ended 
our  two  days'  trip  to  the  Geysers. 


180 


QUOTATIONS. 


CHAPTER  XVII. 

From  San  Francisco  papers  of  August  2 1  : 
»  *  «  «  When  a  mere  holiday  crowds  the 
sidewalks  and  fills  the  windows  with  the  intelli- 
gent faces  of  such  men  and  women  as  one  can 
see  only  in  a  land  where  all  are  born  free  and 
equal,  we  wonder  at  the  unmistakable  evidences 
of  the  rivalry  which  marks  the  struggle  of  life 
in  the  centers  of  civilization  ;  the  sight  of  the 
thousands  that  move  through  the  streets  and 
the  thousands  that  look  at  the  spectacle  from 
their  homes,  fills  the  observer  with  amazement 
at  the  immense  vitality  of  a  modern  city. 

If  the  frequent  holiday  scenes  in  a  great  city 
be  so  potent  to  arouse  admiration  of  its  vast 
energy,  how  much  more  effective  in  awakening 
the  wonder  of  the  beholder,  must  such  a 
demonstration  as  that  of  yesterday  in  San 
Francisco  have  been.  The  countless  multitude 
of  human  beings  that  spread  over  every  thor- 

i8r 


TOUR  OF  THE  ST.  ELMO'S. 

oughfare,  was  not  the  familiar  crowd  which 
gives  to  the  city  an  ordinary  holiday  appear- 
ance. The  sea  of  faces  that  might  have  been 
observed  from  any  window  which  commanded 
an  unobstructed  view  of  the  Templars'  march 
betokened  an  outpouring  of  the  population 
such  as  one  sees  but  seldom  in  a  lifetime,  and 
then  watches  with  growing  surprise  that  such 
density  of  life  can  be  dominated  and  controlled 
by  universal  regard  for  order. 

The  continent  knew  yesterday  that  the 
metropolis  of  the  Pacific  was  to  be  the  scene 
of  a  most  remarkable  pageant.  To-day  it  may 
be  said,  with  slight  exaggeration,  that  half  our 
State  has  learned  from  personal  observation 
that  the  demonstration  was  a  spectacle,  the 
grandeur  of  which  was  only  paralleled  by  its 
novelty  and  exceeded  by  the  unbounded  admir- 
ation and  unrestrained  friendliness  of  the  hun- 
dreds of  thousands  through  whose  decorous 
ranks  it  passed. 

It  would  be  a  hopeless  task  to  attempt,  by 
182 


THE  PAGEANT. 

the  simple  lines  of  a  pen-picture,  to  describe  a 
single  detail  of  the  grand  demonstration  that 
aroused  San  Francisco  yesterday  morning  and 
made  the  length  and  breadth  of  its  streets  for 
miles  dark  with  restless  hosts  of  sight-seers  and 
gay  with  banners  of  silk  and  gold.  The  valley 
of  the  city,  viewed  from  the  heights  up  which 
the  railroad  cars  traveled  with  their  loads  of 
spectators,  presented  an  appearance  not  easily 
forgotten.  From  every  building  of  note  rich 
banners  floated  in  the  fresh,  beautiful  air  that 
came  briskly  across  the  hills,  laden  with  the 
odor  of  the  ocean.  Endless  rows  of  flags  and 
pennants  waved  and  fluttered  over  the  black 
masses  of  people,  whose  movements  were  sug- 
gestive of  the  concentrating  strength  of  a  great 
army.  The  whole  surface  of  the  city  seemed 
instinct  with  life.  The  streets  accommodated 
but  a  portion  of  the  populace.  Looking  down 
from  the  elevation  of  California  street,  the  eye 
dwelt  with  surprise  on  the  groups  of  eager 
spectators  that  occupied  every  roof  along  the 

'83 


TOUR  OF  THE  ST.  ELMO'S. 

line  of  the  procession  and  gazed  with  appre- 
hension at  the  adventurous  tenants  of  dizzy 
cornices  and  tall  chimneys,  that  almost  trem- 
bled under  their  unaccustomed  burden. 

The  flutter  of  silken  banners,  the  rush  of 
vehicles,  the  ceaseless  ebb  and  flow  of  the  tide 
of  humanity,  all  aided  to  impress  the  observer 
with  the  magnitude  of  the  demonstration 
which  the  city  was  about  to  witness.  Nothing 
seemed  to  have  escaped  the  decorator ;  no 
window  was  so  rich  in  architectural  attractions 
or  so  modest  in  its  dimensions  that  it  was 
deemed  above  or  below  the  necessity  of  the 
popular  ornamentation.  The  high  and  the 
low,  the  rich  and  the  poor,  the  leaders  of 
society  and  those  to  whom  that  word  bore  no 
significance,  had  equally  exerted  themselves  to 
show  their  approval  of  the  day's  event  and 
their  desire  to  usher  it  in  auspiciously.  From 
the  roof-tops  of  the  plebeian  quarter  and  from 
the  towers  of  Nob  Hill  the  ever-present  deco- 
rations waved  their  greetings  to  the  stranger 

184 


THE  KNIGHTLY  HOSTS. 

and  their  encouragement  to  the  Knights  who 
were  "to  the  manner  born."  Above  all,  rising 
to  imbue  the  scene  of  universal  friendship 
with  the  spirit  of  harmony,  came  the  strains  of 
martial  music  as  the  Knightly  hosts  moved 
toward  the  distant  avenue  where  the  pageant 
was  to  begin  with  a  grand  review. 

Looking  down  from  the  hill  the  spectator 
saw  the  black  masses  on  each  street  flecked  by 
the  white  plumes  of  the  Templars  as  they 
either  stood  in  waiting  to  join  the  main  col- 
umn or  marched  to  meet  it.  The  magnificent 
uniforms,  the  troops  of  mounted  Knights  and 
the  glitter  of  polished  weapons  as  the  sun 
pierced  the  morning  mist  and  gleamed  on  the 
banners  of  silk  and  gold,  added  the  last  touch 
of  military  pomp  to  the  scene  and  completed 
the  illusion.  It  required  no  great  stretch  of 
the  imagination,  with  the  rustle  of  the  banners, 
the  trampling  of  the  hoofs  and  the  echoes  of 
bugle  calls  to  carry  the  scene  back  to  the 
twelfth  century  and  invest  it  with  the  martial 


TOUR  OF  THE  ST.  ELMO'S. 

dignity  of  the  preparations  that  ushered  in 
Prince  John's  great  tourney  on  the  field  of 
Ashby-de-la-Zouch. 

A  closer  inspection  did  not  lessen  the  illu- 
sion, and  when  the  Knightly  hosts  marched 
into  the  splendid  avenue  which  had  been 
wisely  chosen  for  the  review,  it  was  easy  to 
find  in  the  thousands  of  stalwart  forms,  whose 
grand  bearing  elicited  popular  applause,  some 
figures  that  might  have  typified  the  dauntless 
Knight  Ivanhoe  or  the  invincible  Coeur  de 
Lion  himself.  Never  before  had  the  aristo- 
cratic avenue  of  the  city  seen  such  a  pageant, 
and  never  did  it  so  thoroughly  discard  its 
reserve  and  strain  with  such  plebeian  earnest- 
ness to  obtain  a  full  view  of  the  spectacle  of 
the  hour.  Every  mansion  had  flung  open  its 
windows  to  their  fullest  and  placed  in  them 
bevies  of  San  Francisco  beauties,  whose  flash- 
ing eyes  matched  well  the  splendor  of  the 
parade  and  whose  cheeks  put  to  shame  the 
delicacy  of  the  roses  climbing  up  the  trellis 

iS6 


THE  REVIEW. 

with  true  Californian  luxuriance.  The  small- 
est point  of  vantage  from  which  the  review 
could  be  seen  was  jealously  guarded  by  some 
occupant,  to  whom  time  was  of  no  moment, 
the  increasing  warmth  of  the  sun  no  inconven- 
ience and  the  insecurity  of  his  or  her  position 
of  no  consequence. 

Van  Ness  avenue  was  the  scene  of  the 
greatest  interest  and  brilliancy  in  the  day's 
programme.  It  was  here  the  5000  Knights 
were  drawn  up  in  line  and  were  reviewed  by 
the  Grand  Master  of  the  United  States,  and 
as  he  passed  down  the  line  riding  a  beautiful 
white  horse,  richly  caparisoned,  attended  by 
his  suite,  banners  were  dipped  and  Sir  Knights 
presented  swords  in  one  continuous  line  of 
steel.  Immediately  after  the  Grand  Master 
reached  the  left  of  the  line,  the  order  "  Column 
Forward  "  was  given  and  the  procession  wheeled 
down  Van  Ness  avenue  into  Eddy  street,  where 
a  reviewing  platform  had  been  erected  for  the 
Grand  Master,  which  he  already  occupied  as 

187 


TOUR  OF  THE  ST.  ELMO'S, 

commandery  after  commandery  and  division 
after  division  passed  in  review. 

The  procession  was  composed  of  an  advance 
guard  and  ten  divisions,  each  under  command 
of  a  Past  Grand  Commander,  and  San  Fran- 
cisco witnessed  a  pageant  never  equaled  on  the 
Pacific  coast  in  point  of  display,  picturesque- 
ness,  extent,  or  pomp — that  of  the  Knight 
Templars  of  yesterday." 

A  description  of  each  commandery  and 
division  not  being  of  interest  in  this  connection 
I  only  include  a  portion  of  the  report  of  the 
Fourth,  as  this  was  composed  principally  of 
New  England  commanderies  (Boston  not  be- 
ing included). 

"  The  Fourth  Division  was  commanded  by  P.  G.  C.  Nicholas  Van 
Slyck,  of  Rhode  Island,  with  a  corps  of  efficient  aids,  and  escorted 
by  Golden  Gate  Commandery  No.  10,  of  San  Francisco,  preceded 
by  the  First  U.  S.  Artillery  Band.  Then  followed  in  order — 

The  Grand  Commandery  of  Maine. 

The  Grand  Commandery  of  New  Hampshire. 

The  Grand  Commandery  of  Vermont. 

The  Grand  Commandery  of  Connecticut, 

each  Grand  Commandery  accompanied  by  a  few  Sir  Knights  from 
their  respective  states." 

188 


ST.  ELMO,  No.  9. 

"  On  the  left  of  this  division  was  St.  Elmo 
Commandery,  No.  9,  of  Meriden,  Conn., 
thirty-eight  swords,  bearing  a  beautiful  white 
banner  trimmed  with  gold.  On  one  side  is  the 
picture  of  the  Castle  of  St.  Elmo,  set  on  a 
barren  rock.  Above  this  is  the  name  of  the 
Commandery  in  letters  of  gold  and  on  each 
side  the  words  "In  Hoc  Signo  Vinces"  are 
placed.  On  the  reverse  side  is  a  passion  cross, 
with  K.  T.  on  each  side.  The  regalia  of  this 
body  of  Knights,  is  pretty  as  well  as  emblematic 
of  the  Order.  The  cross,  sashes  and  belts  are 
black  velvet  trimmed  with  either  silver  or  gold 
fringe,  also  studded  with  emblems.  The  hats 
are  the  old  black  cockade  fashion,  with  black 
plume  floating  over  the  back.  An  apron 
adorned  with  a  skull  within  a  triangle  hangs 
suspended  from  the  body.  Their  regalia  being 
old  pattern,  and  more  elaborate  than  most 
other  commanderies  in  the  line,  taken  together 
with  steady  marching  by  platoon,  drew  fre- 
quent applause  from  the  crowds  along  the  line 


TOUR  OF  THE  ST.  ELMO'S. 

« 

of  march.  St.  Elmo  of  Meriden  is  deserving 
especial  mention  in  this  connection,  as  coming 
from  the  extreme  eastern  portion  of  our 
country,  and  parading  with  more  swords  in 
proportion  to  its  membership  than  any  com- 
mandery  east  of  the  Mississippi  River." 

THE  WEEK'S  PROGRAMME. 

Saturday,  August  18 — Reception  Day. 

Sunday,  19 — Templar  Service  in  the  Grand  Pavilion. 

Monday,  20 — Grand  Parade  and  Review. 

Tuesday,  21 — Promenade  Concert,  Grand  Pavilion. 

Wednesday,  22^-Excursions,  Grand  Banquet  and  Concert. 

Thursday,  23— Excursions,  Receptions  and  Grand  Orchestral 
and  Promenade  Concert,  Grand  Pavilion. 

Friday,  24--Laying  Corner-Stone  Garfield  Monument  in  Golden 
Gate  Park,  and  Excursions. 

Saturday,  25  — Grand  Competitive  Prize  Drill.  Excursion 
tickets  provided  for  any  regular  train  throughout  the  State,  with 
special  excursions  to  San  Jose,  Santa  Cruz,  Monterey,  the  Napa 
Valley,  etc.,  with  ocean  excursion  trips. 

Front  Itinerary. 

"  For  a  distance  of  thirty-two  miles,  or  as 
far  as  Port  Costa,  we  follow  the  same  route 
over  which  we  came.  Crossing  the  straits  of 

igo 


H&MEWARD. 

Carquinez  at  that  point  on  the  mammoth  steam 
ferry-boat  "  Solano,"  the  largest  craft  of  its 
kind  in  the  world,  the  whole  train  being  taken 
on  board  at  once,  the  route  extends  through 
Benicia  and  across  the  fertile  plains  beyond. 
Sacramento  is  a  handsome  and  attractive  city  of 
over  25,000  inhabitants,  and  the  capital  of  the 
State.  The  capitol  is  a  stately  edifice,  with  a 
fine  dome  220  feet  in  height.  The  cost  of  the 
building  was  $2,500,000.  Crossing  the  great 
plains  of  Nevada,  the  State  is  traversed  by  the 
railroad  for  456  miles.  Reno,  Wadsworth, 
Winnemucca,  Battle  Mountain,  Carlin,  Elko 
and  Wells  are  the  chief  places  upon  the  way. 
Humboldt,  where  breakfast  will  be  served,  is 
a  veritable  oasis  in  the  desert,  the  proprietors 
of  the  Humboldt  House  having  brought  water 
down  from  the  neighboring  Humboldt  Moun- 
tains for  irrigating  purposes.  Winnemucca 
was  named  in  honor  of  a  celebrated  Piute 
chief  who  died  about  a  year  since.  Elko  is  a 
flourishing  mining  center.  Although  the 


TOUR  OF  THE  ST.  ELMO'S, 

route  is  over  the  unproductive  alkali  plains, 
the  scenery  is  never  uninteresting,  as  there  is 
an  ever-changing  prospect  of  mountains." 

SALT    LAKE    CITY,    UTAH. 

"  The  Mormon  capital  presents  many  strange 
sights.  Salt  Lake  City,  or  Zion,  as  it  is  called 
by  the  Latter  Day  Saints,  is  very  beautifully 
situated  in  the  great  Salt  Lake  valley.  The 
wonderful  inland  sea  is  situated  only  a  few 
miles  away,  and  in  the  opposite  direction  rises 
the  great  wall  of  the  Wahsatch  Range.  The 
city  covers  a  wide  expanse,  and  the  streets  are 
laid  out  regularly,  bordered  with  trees  and 
watered  by  tiny  canals  of  pure  water.  The 
number  of  people  who  own  the  houses  in 
which  they  live  is  said  to  be  greater  in 
proportion  to  the  population  than  in  any 
other  city  of  the  Union.  There  are  copi- 
ous sulphur  springs  within  the  city,  and  rich 
silver  mines  within  a  distance  of  a  score 
of  miles.  The  number  of  inhabitants  is  about 

iga 


SALT  LAKE  CITY. 

20,000,  the  majority  being  Mormons.  The 
Tabernacle,  the  chief  place  of  worship  of  the 
Mormons,  is  a  great  egg-shaped  building,  250 
feet  long  and  150  feet  wide,  with  a  roof  80 
feet  from  the  floor.  There  are  seats  for  8000 
persons  and  20  doors  for  exit.  The  unfinished 
Temple  and  the  Assembly  House  are  in  the 
same  enclosure  with  the  Tabernacle,  and  the 
Endowment  House  is  in  a  separate  enclosure 
near  the  latter  building.  Among  the  other 
places  of  interest  are  the  Tithing  offices,  Brig- 
ham  Young's  former  residence  ;  the  Amelia 
Palace  (built  for  one  of  President  Young's 
favorite  wives  and  now  occupied  by  President 
Taylor) ;  the  gigantic  mart  of  '  Zion's  Co- 
operative Mercantile  Institution,'  known  in 
short  as  the  '  Co-op,  store,'  and  the  Deseret 
Museum,  which  contains  a  small  but  interest- 
ing collection  of  curiosities.  Camp  Douglas 
is  finely  situated  near  the  city." 


'93 


TOUR  OF  THE  ST.  ELMO'S 


CHAPTER  XVIIL 

FRIDAY,  Aug.  24. 

At  3.30  P.  M.  we  bid  adieu  to  the  hearty 
good  cheer  of  San  Francisco.  A  large  number 
of  friends  cross  the  ferry  with  us,  among  others 
two  Sir  Knights  of  St.  Elmo,  Sir  Theo.  Byxbee 
and  Sir  James  Belden,  who  preceded  us  and 
concerning  whom  a  capital  story  is  going  the 
rounds.  It  seems  the  reporter  of  one  of  the 
San  Francisco  papers  announced  them  as  Major 
General  Byxbee  and  Governor  Belden  of  Con- 
necticut. Sir  Knight,  James  has  answered  to  his 
title  ever  since.  The  Japanese  minister  came 
on  board  and  went  through  our  cars  at  the 
ferry.  Mr.  and  Mrs.  William  P.  Morgan  with 
a  few  other  friends  accompained  us  to  the  next 
station,  then  final  adieus  were  exchanged  and 
we  were  off  for  a  ride  of  872  miles  to  Salt  Lake. 
On  this  route  is  the  largest  ferry-boat  in  the 
world,  affording  room  for  forty-eight  freight  cars 

'94 


A   CONTINENT  TO   CROSS. 

on  deck  at  once.  There  are  four  tracks  on 
which  are  taken  as  many  trains.  For  many 
miles  we  pass  along  the  shore  of  the  best  har- 
bor on  the  continent.  Leaving  the  broad 
waters  at  last  we  realize  that  we  have  turned 
our  faces  homeward.  There  is  only  a  conti- 
nent to  cross  ! 

Sacramento,  a  city  of  nearly  30,000  inhabitants, 
is  passed  just  after  dark.  At  midnight  most  of 
the  party  are  on  the  platforms  and  at  the  'win- 
dows to  witness  by  moonlight  the  passage 
"around  the  horn."  The  railroad  at  this  place 
is  cut  into  the  face  of  a  fearful  precipice.  The 
strongest  nerves  somehow  call  for  a  firm  grasp 
here  and  all  hands  hold  on  tightly  till  we  are 
safely  by.  We  are  told  that  Mother  Hubbard 
was  there  enjoying  the  scenery,  and  do  know 
for  a  certainty  that  Father  Hubbard  was  out. 
During  the  latter  part  of  the  night  we  pass 
through  thirty-eight  miles  of  snow  sheds.  One 
sleepy  Sir  Knight  inquired  this  morning  if  we 
saw  that  "long  bridge."  He  said  he  looked 

'95 


TOUR  OF  THE  ST.  ELMO'S. 

till  he  " got  tired"  and  fell  asleep.     The  high- 
est elevation  is  at  Soda  Springs,  6,750  feet. 

We  are  passing  over  an  alkali  plain  between 
treeless  mountain  ranges  all  day.  There  is  little 
dust,  but  what  there  is,  makes  the  skin  smart 
and  inflames  the  eyes,  lips  and  nostrils.  The 
Sinks  of  the  Humboldt  river  are  passed.  Three 
rivers  in  this  desert  empty  into  as  many  sinks 
which  have  no  outlet.  We  ride  for  miles  beside 
one  of  these.  Sir  Knight  W.  K.  Mendenhall 
and  lady,  whose  sleeping  car  is  placed  in  another 
section  of  the  train  and  who  are  thus  without 
quarters,  are  given  a  place  with  us  and  form  a 
pleasant  addition  to  our  party.  Humboldt  is  a 
pretty  oasis  in  the  monotonous  desert.  A  fine 
fountain,  a  little  lake  with  swan,  and  fine  lawns 
with  trees  enhance  the  contrast ;  then  the 
dreary  waste  again.  There  are  ranches  occa- 
sionally, and  sometimes  great  fields  of  grain, 
but  only  at  points  where  precious  water  can  be 
obtained.  No  rain  falls  here.  Rarely  during 
the  winter  nights  slight  snows  whiten  the  alkali 

ig6 


PALISADE. 

surface  a  little,  and  these  invariably  disappear 
in  the  early  part  of  the  day.  Just  at  dusk  \\v 
follow  the  curving  river,  by  a  series  of  circling 
turns  among  the  parti-colored  mountains. 
There  are  yellows,  reds,  grays,  browns,  all 
streaked  with  lines  of  many  tints.  The  setting 
sun  gilds  some  with  flame-colored  lights,  leav- 
ing the  rest  with  sombre  shades.  The  effect 
is  indescribable. 

At  Palisade  is  a  touch  of  civilization.  The 
Palisades  are  unlike  anything  \ve  have  seen  and 
very  beautiful ;  a  novel  canon  indeed.  A 
bright  sulphur-colored  lichen  enhances  the 
singularity  of  the  scene.  Here  is  the  junction 
of  the  Palisade  and  Eureka  railroad,  a  narrow- 
gauge  to  the  mines.  The  valley  widens  into 
fertile  fields,  with  distant  mountain  ranges,  and 
then — the  desert  with  its  poisonous  dust.  The 
day's  ride  is  attended  with  more  discomfort 
than  the  southern  route  gave  us.  The  heat  is 
not  as  intense,  but  one  feels  it  more. 

One  member  of  the  party  offers  two  bits  for 


TOUR  OF  THE  ST.  ELMO'S. 

a  regulation  papoose  basket,  with  the  papoose 
strapped  in.  The  smiling  squaw  throws  it 
gracefully  over  her  shoulder,  places  the  broad 
strap  across  her  forehead  and  proudly  walks 
away.  We  are  running  at  high  speed  all  day, 
and  as  night  "pins  her  mantle  with  a  star"  we 
draw  our  curtains,  shutting  out  the  alkali  plains, 
and  at  the  peep  of  dawn  look  out  upon  "the 
same  continued."  Along  the  eastern  horizon, 
however,  sparkles  a  dark  blue  line,  for  we  are 
approaching  the  Great  Salt  Lake.  At  Ogden 
we  find  an  engine  ready  to  draw  us  down  a  few 
miles  to  Salt  Lake  City,  which  we  reach  early 
in  the  day.  We  ride  about  its  streets  ;  visit  the 
grave  of  Brigham  Young ;  return  to  our  cars 
for  lunch  and  then  attend  the  great  Sunday 
service  at  the  Mormon  Tabernacle.  Pictures 
have  familiarized  everybody  with  its  roof  like  an 
enormous  turtle's  back,  but  its  interior  with  a 
seating  capacity  variously  estimated  at  from 
twelve  to  fifteen  thousand,  is  quite  a  sight. 
To-day,  August  20,  the  galleries  are  not  filled, 

198 


MORMOX  TABERNACLE. 

but  thousands  are  seated  in  the  body  of  the 
house.  Six  "  Apostles"  with  heads  like 
billiard  balls  are  breaking  bread  back  of  a  long- 
table,  and  filling  the  fancy  cake-baskets  (sug- 
gestive of  Meriden  factories).  Back  of  these, 
and  a  step  higher,  six  more  are  seated,  and 
a  Bishop  stands  with  uplifted  hands  in  prayer. 
Back  of  this  row,  at  the  conclusion  of  the 
prayer,  one  rises  and  reads  a  hymn ;  then 
further  back  a  precentor  raises  his  baton ; 
behind  him  an  orchestra,  and  an  immense  or- 
gan, and  on  either  side  great  choirs  of  singers. 
The  enormous  roof  echoes  pulsating  throbs 
of  music  ;  then  Bishop  George'  Bywater,  who  is 
a  mechanic,  delivers  a  long  extempore  harangue 
which,  when  condensed,  is  as  follows  :  Mor- 
monism  rests  on  Scripture  ;  is  a  continuation  of 
revelation  corresponding  thereto,  and  we  are 
happy  in  its  reception.  During  the  sermon, 
cake-baskets  with  broken  bread  are  passed 
around  and  water  in  silver  cups,  and  every  one 
present,  old  and  young,  partake  about  as  un- 

'99 


TOUR  OF  THE  ST.  ELMO'S. 

concernedly  as  children  chew  gum.  There  are 
in  this  world  schemers  and  dupes  ;  they  can  be 
found  in  this  place.  There  are  congregations 
of  happy-faced,  intelligent  people,  but  one  will 
look  in  vain  for  them  here.  A  visit  to  the 
Tabernacle  will  set  one  thinking,  and  if  that  is 
impossible,  a  ride  about  the  city  will  do.  The 
streets  are  very  broad  but  there  is  everywhere 
the  utmost  slovenliness  ;  a  general  dilapidated, 
unkempt,  don't-care-a-tive-ness. 

Here  and  there  a  pretty  place,  perhaps  a 
gentile,  perhaps  an  apostate,  possibly  a  mag- 
nate of  the  church.  One  sees  high  adobe 
walls  suggestive  of  a  prison,  with  a  rickety, 
ramshackle  picket  affair  for  a  gate ;  rough 
roads  lined  with  high  weeds ;  tumble-down 
cobble-stone  walls ;  and  crooked,  broken 
fences.  We  find  the  grave  of  Brigham  with- 
out any  inscription  in  a  corner  of  a  green  lawn, 
enclosed  on  two  sides  by  stone  walls,  the  third 
side  barbed-wire  fence  and  the  fourth  nothing, 
being  a  bank  wall  of  cobble. 


MORMON  MOB. 

Here  are  splendid  business  blocks  (also 
church  tithes).  This  is  a  fertile  valley,  yet 
after  reading  the  glowing  "  Garden  of  Eden  " 
accounts  the  visit  is  a  disappointment.  The 
power  here  is  an  absolute  despotism  vested  in 
the  church  and  carried  on  under  the  forms  of 
a  democracy.  Yesterday  was  a  bloody  day. 
A  colored  man  shot  the  chief  of  police  who 
was  attempting  to  arrest  him.  The  chief  was 
a  Mormon  bishop  and  revenge  came  instantly. 
The  colored  man  was  beaten,  shot,  kicked  and 
pounded  until  his  face  was  a  piece  of  flesh  ; 
was  hung  to  a  beam,  then  cut  down  and  the 
mangled,  bleeding  body  drawn  by  a  howling 
mob  through  the  dust  of  the  street.  It  was 
proposed  to  drag  him  through  all  the  principal 
streets,  and  hang  up  what  was  left  in  a  public 
place,  but  the  Mayor  knowing  what  a  shock 
such  a  proceeding  would  produce  among  civil- 
ized communities,  put  a  stop  to  it. 

On  our  return  from  the  great  tabernacle  we 
took  carriages  for  the  lake,  and  a  bath  in  its 


TOUR  OF  THE  ST.  ELMO'S. 

waters.  What  a  bath  !  Ocean  water  is  said 
to  be  seven  per  cent,  salt — this  is  twenty-two  ! 
Any  person  can  sit,  stand  or  lie  down  without 
sinking.  We  floated  around  like  corks.  We 
could  not  swim,  because  the  feet  could  not  be 
kept  under  water.  The  Dead  Sea  is  the  only 
body  of  water  on  the  earth  as  salt  as  this. 
The  bath  in  these  waters  is  as  delightful  as  it  is 
novel. 

We  return  home  ;  take  dinner,  and  by  ap- 
pointment receive  a  friend  who  is  a  gentleman 
of  culture,  a  resident  here  for  many  years. 
All  the  evening  and  late  into  the  night  we 
listen  to  his  expositions  of  Mormonism,  at 
times  with  breathless  interest.  It  is  an  even- 
ing never  to  be  forgotten.  Would  to  heaven 
the  good  people  of  this  country  could  see  and 
hear  for  themselves. 

Front  Itinerary. 

"Shortly  after  leaving  Ogden,  and  thirteen 
miles  from  that  place,  the  train  enters  the  por- 
tals of  the  "  Devil's  Gate,"  beyond  which  lie 


OVER   THE  MOUNTAINS. 

Weber  and  Echo  Canons,  both  of  which  are 
filled  with  strange  rock  formations.  The 
"thousand-mile  tree,"  which  marks  the  dis- 
tance from  Omaha,  is  within  the  Weber  Canon, 
thirty-two  miles  from  Ogden. 

The  day  will  be  passed  chiefly  upon  the 
great  grazing  plains  of  Wyoming.  The  scen- 
ery along  the  Green  River  is  remarkable  on 
account  of  the  strange  rock  formations.  The 
Uintah  range  of  mountains  is  crossed  at  Aspen, 
at  an  elevation  of  7835  feet,  and  the  true  con- 
tinental divide  at  Creston,  twenty-five  miles 
west  of  Rawlins,  at  an  elevation  of  7300  feet. 
The  highest  point  upon  the  road,  8235  feet, 
will  be  reached  at  Sherman.  The  point  here 
crossed  is  not  upon  the  main  range  of  the 
Rocky  Mountains,  but  upon  a  spur  of  the 
Black  Hills.  While  passing  through  Wyom- 
ing the  antelope  is  likely  to  become  a  common 
object,  although  these  animals  are  not  so  nu- 
merous as  formerly.  Some  of  the  lofty  peaks 
of  Colorado  are  seen  from  the  vicinity  of 

203 


TOUR  OF  THE  ST.  ELMO'S. 

Cheyenne.  The  railroad  crosses  from  Wyom- 
ing into  Nebraska  about  fifty  miles  east  of, 
Cheyenne.  The  western  section  of  Nebraska, 
like  a  large  part  of  Wyoming,  is  given  up 
principally  to  grazing,  but  the  valley  of  the 
Platte,  which  the  railroad  follows  for  several 
hundred  miles,  is  richly  productive. 

Between  Council  Bluffs  and  Cedar  Rapids 
the  road  traverses  a  rich  agricultural  section  of 
Iowa.  The  aim  of  the  road  was  for  as  direct 
a  line  and  as  light  gradients  as  possible,  with- 
out regard  to  the  old  towns.  There  has,  how- 
ever, sprung  up  on  this  line  in  Iowa  some  very 
smart  and  flourishing  towns,  such  as  Neola, 
Defiance,  Coon  Rapids,  Ferry,  Pickering  and 
Tama.  Marion  is  reached  at  5.15  A.M.;  this  is 
one  of  the  loveliest  towns  in  the  State,  and  is 
the  center  of  one  of  the  best  dairy  farming 
localities  in  the  great  West.  Leaving  this 
point  the  road  passes  through  the  most  fertile 
portions  of  Iowa  and  Illinois.  From  Marion 
a  branch  runs  to  Cedar  Rapids,  one  of  the 

204 


ILLINOIS. 

oldest  and  best  towns  in  the  State.  Oxford 
Junction  is  reached  at  6.41  ;  at  this  point 
branches  run  to  Davenport  and  Rock  Island, 
as  well  as  to  all  points  in  Northern  Iowa, 
Minnesota  and  Dakota.  Sabula  on  the  west 
and  Savanna  on  the  east  bank  of  the  Missis- 
sippi are  the  next  towns  of  importance,  and  are 
connected  by. one  of  the  finest  iron  and  steel 
bridges  in  the  country. 

The  Illinois  section  of  the  Chicago  and 
Council  Bluffs  Short  Line  is  one  of  the  finest 
constructed  and  finished  roads  in  the  country, 
traversing  the  bonanza  portion  of  the  great 
Prairie  State,  crossing  the  Rock  River  valley 
and  following  that  of  the  Fox.  Elgin,  the 
seat  of  the  celebrated  watch  factory  and  the 
home  of  numerous  other  extensive  and  popular 
industries,  lies  on  this  line  some  thirty-seven 
miles  from  Chicago.  This  piece  of  road  liter- 
ally flows  with  milk,  the  profits  therefrom 
constituting  the  honey  of  the  dairymen." 


205 


TOUR  OF  THE  ST.  ELMO'S. 


CHAPTER  XIX. 

SATURDAY,  Aug.   27. 

A  quiet  sleep  prepares  us  for  an  early  start 
for  Ogden,  thirty-four  miles,  with  a  tip-top 
breakfast  en  route.  An  hour  here  makes  up 
a  special  train  for  Omaha  ten  hundred  and 
thirty-three  miles. 

The  morning  is  hot;  we  soon  strike  the  Devil's 
Gate,  a  cafion  picturesque,  rugged  and  wild. 
Just  at  the  opening  beyond,  a  colony  of  three 
hundred  and  twenty-five  were  massacred  by  the 
Mormons  a  few  years  ago.  In  the  rich  valley 
we  look  through  the  vibrating  heated  air  to  see 
the  snow  on  the  mountains.  Weber  Canon  is 
fine  and  unlike  any  other  yet  seen,  ending  in  a 
lofty  mass  with  curiously  rounded  butresses  and 
pinnacles.  Here  is  the  celebrated  Devil's  Slide 
and  Devil's  Cave.  The  Weber  River  which  we 
have  followed  all  the  morning  empties  into  the 
Great  Salt  Lake.  We  soon  reach  the  Echo 

206 


ECHO  CANON, 

Cailon  and  find  the  most  curious  rocks.  The 
face  of  the  perpendicular  cliffs  for  miles  is  hol- 
lowed and  cut  into  myriads  of  fantastic  forms. 
Along  the  top  are  still  seen  the  rocks  placed 
there  by  the  Mormons  for  the  purpose  of 
slaughtering  the  United  States  troops  a  few 
years  ago.  An  accident  which  detained  the 
troops  saved  them  from  massacre. 

The  Tower,  Steamboat  Point,  Thousand 
Mile  Tree,  Pulpit  Rock  and  the  Hanging  Rock 
are  interesting  points.  At  Evanston  (altitude 
about  7,000  feet),  we  stop  for  an  hour.  A 
tribe  of  Wahsatch  Indians  and  a  few  Shoshones 
furnish  diversion  and  an  opportunity  to  trade 
for  trinkets.  At  Wahsatch  we  enter  the  vast 
territory  of  Wyoming.  The  day's  ride  is  in  a 
narrow  sage-bush  valley  with  peculiar  side  hills, 
some  resembling  earthworks,  some  clusters  of 
tents,  pyramids,  cones  and  terraces. 

At  the  Green  River  Canon  all  the  novel 
scenes  of  the  kind  are  outdone.  Here  are 
lofty  walls,  perfectly  vertical,  with  horizontal 

207 


TOUR  OF  THE  ST.  ELMO'S. 

lines  of  varying  shades — white,  gray,  blue, 
brown  and  black — lifting  lofty  castles  against 
the  sky  and  presenting  a  spectacle  of  rare 
beauty.  Farther  on,  at  the  foot  of  a  wonder- 
ful cliff,  the  town  nestles,  the  long  line  of 
buildings  fronting  a  broad  plaza.  Cages  of 
wild  animals  are  here,  panthers  and  bears  being 
captured  on  the  premises.  General  Charles 
Roone,  of  New  York,  joins  us  for  a  short  visit. 
In  jollity  and  mirth  the  evening  swiftly  flies. 
Notwithstanding  the  heat  of  the  day  the  night 
is  cold. 

August  28. — Our  train  is  very  heavy  and 
the  grades  during  the  night  steep.  The  brakes 
did  not  hold  and  the  train  drew  the  engine 
back  several  times.  We  lost  two  hours.  No 
spare  engine  on  this  division,  since  there  are 
seven  sections  of  the  train  back  of  us.  At 
Laramie,  a  city  of  3,500  inhabitants,  the  train 
stops  nearly  an  hour.  We  make  the  acquain- 
tance of  Mr.  John  W.  Donnellan,  cashier  of 
the  Laramie  National  Bank,  who  shows  us  a 

208 


THE  SUMMIT. 

fine  banking  building  with  excellent  appoint- 
ments and  gives  us  much  information  concern- 
ing the  city,  the  territory,  its  climate,  resources, 
etc.  A  mine  of  crystallized  soda  with  veins 
and  beds  several  feet  in  thickness  has  recently 
been  opened  and  chemical  works  are  being 
established.  Two  miles  away  a  mountain 
spring  discharges  pure  water  enough  to  fill  a 
twelve-inch  main  for  city  use  and  also  supplies 
a  broad  stream  of  running  water  to  every  street 
gutter.  The  spring  is  135  feet  above  the  city 
level.  We  move  slowly  up  grade  to  Sherman. 
"  How  is  this  for  high  !"  Altitude  8,242  feet ! 
We  notice  the  monument  of  Oakes  Ames 
on  the  summit.  The  party  are  becoming 
accustomed  to  high  altitudes,  and  no  one  suf- 
fers any  inconvenience,  although  in  one  of 
the  forward  cars  a  gentleman  is  dangerously 
ill  from  heart-disease.  From  Sherman  to 
Cheyenne  the  descent  is  over  2,000  feet.  The 
roads  run  a  short  distance  through  a  country 
full  of  rocks,  then  follow  broad  meadows  and 

2OQ 


TOUR  OF  THE  ST.  ELMO'S. 

plains,  in  some  places  a  little  rolling.  We  all 
supposed  that  mountain  passes  would  be  found, 
and  are  surprised  to  find  gradually  descending 
prairies.  Enormous  herds  of  cattle  are  seen, 
and,  of  course,  great  numbers  of  ''cow  boys." 
Sir  Knight,  the  Major  H.  H.  Strong,  rejoins 
us  at  Cheyenne,  having  gone  on  ahead  for  a 
visit  with  friends.  His  Honor  Sir  Knight 
Doolittle  meets  here  a  schoolmate,  Mr.  Allen 
Bristol,  and  we  are  favored  with  a  visit  from 
Sir  Knight  S.  A.  Bristol  and  wife,  also  Pro- 
fessor J.  E.  Starke  and  wife.  The  professor 
has  conducted  the  high  school  at  Cheyenne  for 
eleven  years.  From  Cheyenne  eastward  the 
same  beautiful  plains  are  seen  becoming  more 
and  more  green  and  all  very  fertile  but  requir- 
ing irrigation.  We  find  no  change  until  after 
crossing  the  Nebraska  line.  In  the  vicinity  of 
Sydney  are  cultivated  fields  with  low  rocky 
ledges.  At  Salt  Lake  City  we  noticed  "  Uncle 
Sam's  boys,"  a  military  post  being  established 
there,  and  we  find  another  at  this  point.  The 


THRO  UGH  NEBRA  SKA . 

entire  route  from  the  summit  is  a  table- 
land meadow  exceedingly  well  fitted  for  graz- 
ing. Just  after  reaching  the  North  Platte  the 
cry  of  "fire"  is  heard;  a  long  line  of  flame  is 
running  across  the  prairie.  The  sunset  on  the 
plains  is  also  a  very  pretty  sight.  During  the 
evening  visits  are  exchanged  with  the  Mary 
Commandery,  of  Philadelphia,  whose  cars  are 
attached  to  our  own. 

We  cross  the  South-Platte  in  the  evening 
and  have  been  riding  beside  the  Platte  all  night,  a 
broad,  shallow  river  full  of  shifting  sands. 
The  gradually  descending  grade  of  yesterday 
still  continues.  Our  ride  through  Nebraska  is 
a  descent  of  7,000  feet. 

The  morning  of  the  2Qth  finds  us  within 
eighty  miles  of  Omaha,  in  a  region  suggestive 
of  New  England  scenery.  Rains  have  fallen 
and  the  rich  dark  green  grass  looks  refreshing. 
Numerous  trees  of  various  kinds  are  in  sight. 
Soon  we  come  to  level  fields  burdened  with 
heavy  crops,  in  the  fertile  valley  of  the  Platte. 


TOUR  OF  THE  ST.  ELMO'S. 

At  Tremont,  forty-seven  miles  from  Omaha, 
we  receive  notice  of  an  accident  ahead  and  are 
compelled  to  wait.  After  a  delay  of  a  few 
hours,  during  which  time  several  trains  come 
up,  we  proceed  to  the  wreck.  A  freight  train 
ran  into  another  at  the  switch.  The  locomo- 
tive was  scattered  about,  twelve  cars  were  de- 
molished, eight  of  these  being  stacked  up  at 
right  angles  with  the  track.  No  one  was 
seriously  injured.  A  new  track  is  laid  down 
the  embankment  connecting  with  the  siding, 
and  slowly  we  "  slide  down  hill,"  passing 
around  the  ruin.  After  a  short  stop  at  Omaha 
we  cross  the  great  bridge  over  the  Missouri 
river.  At  Council  Bluffs  while  the  cars  are 
cleaned,  the  time  is  well  filled  up.  All  hands 
are  weighed  at  the  baggage  rooms  and  all  have 
gained  since  leaving  home,  the  gain  being  from 
three  to  seven  pounds  each.  Some  astonishing 
time  is  made  in  certain  "  go  as  you  please  "  races. 
The  truck  racing  is  also  interesting.  The  amount 
of  exercise  the  ladies  can  endure,  is  astonishing. 


INTO  IOWA. 

When  starting  for  home  we  picked  up  a  poor, 
sick,  penniless  boy  from  Connecticut,  L.  D. 
Pierce  by  name,  and  raising  a  purse,  purchased 
for  him  a  ticket  to  Council  Bluffs.  We  find 
him  here  and  the  kind-hearted  railroad  officials 
grant  him  a  pass  to  Chicago,  which  is  the  end 
of  their  line.  Mr.  A.  Alice,  western  district 
passenger  agent  of  the  Chicago,  Milwaukee 
and  St.  Paul,  joins  our  party  to  accompany  us 
the  entire  length  of  their  line — 490  miles.  Since 
leaving  San  Francisco  we  have  already  traveled 
1,935  miles. 

Into  the  giant  state  of  Iowa  we  speed.  The 
wonderful  fertility  of  these  rich  rolling  lands 
exceeds  belief.  A  concert  whiles  away  the 
evening  hour.  During  the  early  part  of  the 
night  no  less  than  four  prairie  fires  are  seen. 
The  Central  Missouri  and  St.  Paul  railroad  is 
well  built,  and  the  train  runs  at  high  speed, 
yet  most  of  the  party  sleep  soundly.  The 
grade  is  slightly  ascending  to  "'the  divide," 
from  which  point  the  water  runs  west  to  the 

213 


TOUR  OF  THE  ST.  ELMO'S. 

Missouri  and  east  to  the  Mississippi,  which  river 
we  cross  in  the  morning  over  a  very  fine  bridge. 
All  the  lands  seen  in  Iowa  are  very  fertile,  but 
the  western  portion  is  the  best.  Illinois  is  also 
a  beautiful  country.  The  land  is  very  produc- 
tive, and  fine  farms  are  everywhere.  It  is 
more  thickly  settled,  and  is  a  pleasant  land 
indeed.  The  views  as  we  pass  are  refreshing. 
Elgin  is  the  greatest  butter  market  in  the 
world.  We  are  nearing  Chicago,  which  sug- 
gests home. 

AUGUST  30. — On  reaching  Chicago  the  party 
take  carriages  for  a  ride  about  the  city,  while 
the  transfer  is  made  to  the  depot  of  the  Grand 
Trunk  road.  Sight-seeing  and  a  dinner  at  the 
Grand  Pacific  fill  up  the  time  till  early  even- 
ing, when  we  start  for  Port  Huron,  after  hav- 
ing returned  thanks  to  Mr.  A.  Alice,  of  C.  M. 
and  St.  P.  R.  R.,  for  favors,  and  bidding  adieu 
to  Sir  Knight  Frank  Platt,  who  leaves  us  here 
for  a  visit  with  friends.  We  are  glad  to  wel- 
come Mr.  W.  W.  Bartholomew,  of  Meriden, 


214 


INITIATION. 

who  accompanies  us  from  Chicago.  A  ticket  is 
purchased  for  the  boy  picked  up  at  San  Fran- 
cisco. The  officers  of  the  Grand  Trunk 
insisted  on  taking  him  along  free  and  issued  a 
pass,  returning  the  money — one  more  favor  to 
add  to  the  long  list  received  from  the  railroad 
companies.  We  compare  records  of  the  time. 
A  run  of  forty  miles  was  made  in  forty-two  min- 
utes. One  mile  was  made  in  fifty-seven  seconds. 
The  evening  was  delightfully  passed,  an  amus- 
ing incident  being  the  initiation  of  Mr.  W.  W. 
Bartholomew,  the  members  of  the  party  hav- 
ing passed  through  the  same  impressive  cere- 
monies at  the  start.  The  gentleman  is  now 
entitled  to  sit  in  the  car  wherever  he  "  has  a 
mind"  to.  The  road  is  excellent,  and  the 
speed  immense,  but  we  enjoy  a  good  night's 
rest. 

AUGUST  31. — The  morning  bright  and  beau- 
tiful, finds  us  approaching  the  river  St.  Clair. 
We  have  no  difficulty  in  appropriating  a  fine 
breakfast  as  we  "roll  along,"  and  strike  Port 

215 


TOUR  OF  THE  ST.  ELMO'S. 

Huron  "  in  good  order."  The  mighty  mass  of 
water  pouring  out  of  Lake  Huron,  with  "  cur- 
rent swift  and  strong,"  is  crossed  by  ferry,  the 
train  is  made  up  and  we  are  off  again  through 
the  Queen's  Dominions.  We  are  favored  by 
another  special  train  as  far  as  London,  at  which 
point  we  are  attached  to  the  regular.  A  little 
beyond  London  we  notice  an  iron  bridge  swept 
from  its  abutments  down  the  river,  which  must 
have  risen  from  present  level,  12  or  15  feet  to 
even  touch  it. 

At  Hamilton  the  train  is  made  up  for 
Toronto,  giving  us  a  pleasant  ride  along  the 
shore  of  Lake  Ontario.  At  Toronto  we  are  to 
await  the  fast  train  for  Montreal,  and  the  hours 
are  passed  in  sight-seeing.  Some  ride  about 
the  city,  some  visit  the  museum  at  the  Educa- 
tional institute  and  some  are  entertained  at  the 
governor's  palace.  Several  friends  call  to  wel- 
come us,  Mr.  John  Blackburn,  Mr.  Felix  and 
others,  from  Meriden,  and  Mr.  George  G. 
Wingate,  of  Toronto,  also  paid  us  a  visit. 

216 


FINAL  FROLIC. 

This  latter  gentleman  is  a  member  of  a  party 
who  used  one  of  our  cars  for  a  long  trip  last 
summer. 

It  is  dark  as  we  again  pursue  our  homeward 
way.  This  is  the  last  night  of  the  trip  and  the 
entire  party  join  in  a  jolly  frolic.  The  ladies, 
probably  taking  the  cue  from  the  Yosemite 
robbers,  disguised  themselves,  leaving  only  the 
eyes  visible  ;  then  the  Sir  Knights  were  com- 
pelled to  guess  which  one  was  his  wife,  under 
the  penalty  of  a  heavy  forfeit.  The  portion  of 
the  Queen's  Dominion  traversed  during  the 
evening  rang  writh  peals  of  merry  laughter. 
Then  the  Sir  Knights  and  their  ladies  gather- 
ing about  the  piano,  we  sang  "the  old  songs" 
together  for  the  last  time,  and  finishing  our 
frolic  laughed  ourselves  to  sleep.  It  will 
be  some  time  ere  we  shall  forget  the  long 
search  for  the  wrench,  and  the  sad  plight 
of  Sir  Knight  John  W.  Coe,  the  dampness 
of  whose  sleeping  suit  entitled  him  to  com- 
miseration. 

217 


TOUR  OF  THE  ST.  ELMO'S. 

SATURDAY,  Sept.  i. — A  lovely,  cool  morn- 
ing finds  us  approaching  Montreal.  On  our 
arrival  we  are  met  by  our  good  friend  Sir 
Knight  S.  W.  Cummings,  general  passenger 
agent  of  the  Vermont  Central  railroad,  who 
inquires  kindly  concerning  our  trip,  our  health 
and  our  wants,  gives  us  a  pass  to  Springfield 
for  the  San  Francisco  boy  and  bids  us  good- 
bye. He  leaves  by  next  train  to  meet  the 
Boston  Commandery.  At  breakfast  we  are 
leaving  Montreal,  and  on  crossing  the  line  the 
words  of  the  old  song  ring  out  in  chorus, 
"  Hurrah  for  old  New  England  with  her  cloud- 
capped  granite  hills." 

As  we  speed  along  all  are  collected  in  one 
car,  and  the  property  of  the  party  is  disposed 
of  at  auction.  Then  a  number  of  resolutions 
are  passed,  dividing  the  provisions  among  the 
cooks,  porters  and  waiters,  and  thanking  Sir 
Knight  E.  C.  Birdsey  for  the  labor  accom- 
plished in  preparations  for  this  successful  trip. 
Also,  Sir  Knight  R.  T.  Cook  and  Sir  Knight 

218 


RESOLUTIONS  AND  SPEECH. 

John  W.  Coe  for  the  manner  in  which  they 
have  discharged  their  duties  as  commissaries." 
Also,  appointing  a  committee  of  three,  of 
which  Sir  Knight  Levi  E.  Coe  is  chairman, 
to  draft  resolutions  to  be  forwarded  to  all  parties 
who  have  favored  us  during  our  pilgrimage, 
expressive  of  our  appreciation  of  their  efforts 
for  our  pleasure  and  comfort,  and  our  thanks 
for  the  same. 

Sir  Knights  E.  J.  Doolittle  and  E.  C.  Birdsey 
were  appointed  as  the  other  members  of  this 
committee. 

The  following  was  voted  :  That  the  treasurer 
be  instructed  to  refund  to  the  Sir  Knights  who 
were  prevented  from  accompanying  us,  the 
money  received  from  them. 

Sir  Knight  George  S.  Taylor,  in  a  neat 
speech,  thanked  the  party  for  the  invitation  to 
accompany  them.  He  assured  us  that  both 
himself  and  his  wife  consider  this  forty-one 
days'  pilgrimage  the  pleasantest  trip  of  their 
lifetime  ;  that  they  both  anticipated  very  much 


TOUR  OF  THE  ST.  ELMO'S. 

from  the  journey,  but  that  the  realization  had 
vastly  exceeded  their  most  extravagant  dreams. 
Sir  Knight  H.  H.  Strong  also  returned  thanks 
in  behalf  of  himself  and  his  wife,  using  expres- 
sions of  similar  import.  Both  Sir  Knights 
remarked  upon  the  fact  that  during  the  forty- 
one  days  there  has  been  from  first  to  last  in 
both  cars  absolute  and  perfect  harmony. 

The  following  was  unanimously 

Resolved :  That  the  historian,  with  the  assist- 
ance of  the  executive  committee,  be  instructed 
to  prepare  in  permanent  form  a  history  of  the 
journey,  also  adding  to  the  executive  commit 
tee  the  name  of  Sir  Knight  Eli  C.  Birdsey. 

The  meeting  adjourned  with  regret  that  it  is 
the  last  of  a  long  series  of  regular  meetings  of 
this  party. 

We  are  rejoiced  to  greet  Mr.  and  Mrs.  W. 
W.  Lyman,  who  came  on  board  en  route  for 
Brattleboro,  taking  this  train  at  Montpelier 
Junction.  We  are  glad  to  have  their  company 
at  our  last  dinner.  We  have  traveled  more 


NE IV  ENGLAND  SCENER  Y. 

than  nine  thousand  miles  and  so  near  home 
have  the  first  hot  box.  Fortunately  we  are 
near  White  River  Junction,  where  a  stop  for 
dinner  holds  the  train  a  sufficient  length  of 
time  to  substitute  a  new  one.  The  New  Eng- 
land scenery  is  delightful.  It  is  safe  to  assume 
that  every  member  of  the  party  looks  upon 
these  lovely  hill-sides  with  the  utmost  pleasure. 
The  valley  of  the  Connecticut  is  celebrated 
for  the  fertility  of  its  sunny  slopes,  no  less 
than  for  its  scenic  beauty.  Its  special  charm 
for  us,  however,  lies  not  in  its  shifting  scenes, 
ministering  to  the  "love  of  the  beautiful,"  nor 
to  its  famed  husbandry,  but  rather  in  the  senti- 
ment which  finds  expression  in  "  Home  Again." 
We  find  at  Springfield  the  train  for  Meriden 
awaiting  our  arrival,  the  hour  for  its  departure 
having  passed.  Sir  Knight  George  W.  Taylor 
and  wife  leave  us  at  this  point  for  their  home 
in  Chicopee.  We  bid  them  adieu  with  pain, 
regretting  that  "the  best  of  friends  must 
part." 


TOUR  OF  THE  ST.  ELMO'S. 

Hurriedly  the  arrangements  are  made  ;  our 
cars  attached  to  the  "  Steamboat  train "  for 
home,  and  we  are  off ;  having  first  bidden 
adieu  to  the  friends  who  meet  us  here  and  to 
the  sick  lad  who  is  now  nearly  home,  who  says 
with  tear-bedimmed  eyes  and  trembling  voice, 
"God  bless  you  all." 

At  Berlin  we  are  surprised  by  the  entrance 
of  Sir  Knight  W.  F.  Davis,  Sir  Knight  Geo. 
W.  Miller,  Sir  Knight  W.  F.  Rockwell,  Sir 
Knight  W.  L.  Stoddard,  J.  H.  Mabbett,  of  the 
Press-Recorder,  and  W.  F.  Graham  of  the 
Republican. 

"  Home  again,  Home  again,"  is  ringing 
through  the  car  as  we  stop  at  Meriden.  The 
band  is  playing  outside  and  our  beloved  Sir 
Knights  of  St.  Elmo  with  the  city  officers  and 
members  of  the  common  council  are  waiting 
to  welcome  the  party  whose  trip  across  the 

continent  is  over. 

I  add  here  the  names  of  those  who  have 
served  us.  Upon  the  car  "  Chas.  B.  Pratt," 


WELCOME  HOME. 

Noah  C.  Johnson,  porter;  Ellis  Scales,  cook; 
R.  A.  Jeffrey,  waiter.  Upon  the  car  "  City  of 
Worcester,"  A.  W.  dough,  porter;  James 
Carter,  cook  ;  Henry  Smith,  waiter. 

In  closing  these  hastily  written  letters  I 
must  be  permitted  to  return  thanks  to  the 
many  kind  friends  and  courteous  Sir  Knights 
to  whom  we  are  largely  indebted  for  informa- 
tion imparted.  It  has  been  our  good  fortune 
to  meet  everywhere  numbers  of  well-informed 
people,  and  all  anxious  to  serve  us  in  this  as  in 
other  particulars. 

The  following,  from  an  editorial  in  a  local 
papes,  tells  the  story  of  the  welcome  home  : 
"The  St.  Elmo  Tourists  arrived  home  accord- 
ing to  their  Itinerary,  Saturday  evening,  only 
three-quarters  of  an  hour  behind  time.  The 
hearty  welcome  from  their  brother  Templars 
and  the  citizens  generally,  who  thronged  the 
platform,  was  a  spontaneous  testimonial  of  the 
people's  esteem  and  good  wishes.  The  circum- 

223 


TOUR  OF  THE  ST.  ELMO'S. 

stance  of  the  train  being  forty-seven  minutes 
late  at  Hartford,  afforded  opportunity  to  meet 
the  travelers  at  Berlin.  Those  who  availed 
themselves  of  it  found  each  looking  the  pic- 
ture of  health.  None  gave  evidence  of  weari- 
ness, and  even  the  ladies  declared  themselves 
ready  to  undertake  a  similar  journey  if  they 
could  occupy  the  special  cars  which  had  carried 
them  with  such  comfort  over  the  10,000  miles 
of  their  journeyings.  Nearing  Meriden  the 
party  joined  in  the  chorus  "  Home  Again." 
On  their  arrival  at  the  depot  they  found  the 
Reform  School  Cornet  Band  in  waiting  to  pay 
its  respects  to  the  distinguished  party.  The 
enlivening  music  was  a  compliment  wholly 
unexpected  though  highly  appreciated  by  the 
travelers.  This,  however,  was  only  one  inci- 
dent of  the  "  Welcome  Home."  So  many 
swarmed  into  the  palace  cars  that  the  train 
was  detained  fully  twenty  minutes.  The  long 
absent  ones  saw  the  platform  black  with  peo- 
ple, anxious  to  welcome  them.  Sir  M.  Beatty, 

224 


WELCOME  HOME. 

C.  G.  of  St.  Elmo,  was  there  with  twenty-two 
Sir  Knights,  Acting  Mayor  Curtis,  with  the 
entire  Common  Council  were  among  the  multi- 
tude, and  it  looked  as  if  the  entire  city  were  out. 
The  assemblage  of  July  23d,  on  the  occasion 
of  the  departure  of  the  party,  was  a  mere  bag- 
atelle compared  with  the  vast  concourse  gath- 
ered to  welcome  them.  It  was  a  long  time 
before  the  tourists  were  able  to  reach  their 
carriages,  so  general  and  generous  was  the  in- 
formal ovation  tendered  them.  Mr.  and  Mrs. 
George  S.  Taylor,  of  Chicopee  Falls,  Mass., 
who  accompanied  the  party,  were  also  enthu- 
siastically received  by  numerous  friends  at 
home,  and  were  serenaded  by  a  cornet  band, 
under  the  direction  of  workmen  of  the  Belcher 
&  Taylor  Mfg.  Co.,  who,  with  about  500 
friends  and  neighbors  called  to  pay  their 
respects.  H.  H.  Strong  and  wife,  of  New 
Haven,  also  members  of  the  party,  received 
the  congratulations  of  a  host  of  friends  on 
their  arrival  home. 


TOUR  OF  THE  ST.  ELMO'S. 

The  reminiscences  of  the  trip  given  by  the 
tourists  are  very  interesting,  and  would  fill  a 
volume.  They  are  very  enthusiastic  when 
speaking  of  the  lavish  hospitality  of  the  peo- 
ple of  the  Pacific  coast.  Nothing  was  left 
undone  to  make  their  stay  pleasant.  Templar 
emblems  were  seen  in  floral  designs  upon 
lawns  in  all  parts  of  San  Francisco,  showing 
how  the  visit  was  anticipated. 

The  praise  of  Mrs.  Wm.  P.  Morgan  is  upon 
every  tongue,  and  if  ample  justice  was  not 
accorded  to  her  generosity  and  hospitality  it  is 
because  the  English  language  is  inadequate. 

The  Meriden  party  were  singled  out  at 
many  points  for  especial  courtesies.  The  press 
of  San  Francisco  and  other  prominent  cities 
heralded  their  coming  and  descanted  upon 
their  elaborate  moving  hotels,  which  the  palace 
cars  really  are,  and  laid  stress  upon  the  fact 
that  the  "  St.  Elmo's  of  Meriden,  Conn.," 
paraded  with  a  larger  number  of  swords  in 
proportion  to  its  membership  than  any  other 

226 


FINIS. 

Commandery  east  of  the  Mississippi,  and  that 
no  tourist  party  from  the  East  ever  visited  the 
Golden  Gates  in  such  regal  style,  which  is  a 
compliment  to  Connecticut,  to  Meriden,  and 
to  our  home  Commandery." 


227 


